Engine assebly lubricants

[Mrbill426]

The last time I assembled a engine was in 1978 (a 440) and at that time we used what we called engine honey which was nothing more than a mix of STP additive and 30wt motor oil.  I know there are lots of lubricants out there these days (maybe then too) so what do you seasoned builders recommend for coating bearings, (hyd) cams, lifters, rings, and cylinder walls?  Any pre-lube recommendations for a small block?  We used to pre-pack big block oil pumps with petroleum jelly and they would pick up oil pronto... no pre-oling required.  Not sure if right for a small block though.   I have heard light coat of engine oil on cylinder walls,  but also wiped clean with just WD-40.

Thanks!

[ek3]

just  wd 40 has always worked very well only on cyl. bores and  piston/ rings. get the bores  clean... eng.  assembly lube on any  bearings. soak timing chain and sprocket/gears in break in oil. I never put any thick oils/lubes on lifters. [they need to spin in their bores right away ! ] cam lube only on lobes and lifter bottoms. for the valve train,  oil or v-train spray. I just put oil on the rockers and push rod cups.  you can put some lucas in the oil pump  but, you should pre -prime  the oil pump just prior to start up and, rotate the crank to get both sides oiled and verify oil flow to the valve train before fire up . do not use synthetic oil anywhere . use a break in oil or rotella t with break in additive . most thick assembly lubes are made to stay put until start up so you don't dry start the bearings. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have used red Bearing guard in the main & rod brgs & rocker arm contact area & pushrod tips , Moly cam lube on the lobes , engine oil on the pistons & rings , grease in the oil pump .

[jimynick]

The Top Fuel boys seem to like Redline, but there's all kinds of it out there, and it seems like a personal preference thing. As for the WD40, it's a Water Displacement formula #40 and I wouldn't think it the best choice available; but it's kinda like telling somebody that you think their girlfriends not the cutest, if you get what I mean. White cloths and new automatic transmission fluid wiped until it comes out clear and clean is another option to clean bores. 

[ek3]

I am not picking 1 over the other , just saying a light weight lube will let the rings move freely .  proper cylinder wall honing and wd- 40  will seat them in minutes.  I trust it because it has  never let me down in 40 years doing it that way... there are always options like trans fluid  but, I have never seen a synthetic oil that I would use on a cylinder bore for break in ... heck., there is even dry powders out there !

[Mrbill426]

Thanks for all the good tips guys    Much appreciated.

[jamesroney]

For flat tappet camshafts, I like RedLine Engine Assembly Lube.

It is the best.  Not because of any lubrication qualities.  It is the best because it is RED, and it comes in a well designed cosmetic container that allows for dipping your fingers, and doesn't fall over.  The most important aspect of a lubricant is to use it.  I can't see dark gray grease on a dark gray camshaft.  Then when I bump the cam against my shirt...I can't see the mess.  With the red stuff, I can see where I miss, and I can see where to not grab the cam with my hands.  Camshafts also fall over really easy.  So you need one hand to hold it, and one hand to apply the lube.  Then you need another hand to hold the lube, and another hand to squeeze the pouch, and another hand to set it down.  You run out of hands real quick.  Use the Red Line container, and you can hold the cam with your left hand, paint it with your right, and never miss a lobe.  You can also balance the cam with your RedLine coated fingers and avoid nicking the cam bearings.  And you only have to wash up once.

For lifters,  I like motor oil.  Plain, old fashioned motor oil.  The same stuff that you are going to use in the engine.  Dump the lifters in the valve galley, and pour a cup of motor oil on them.  Then drop them in the bores.

For cylinders and rings, I agree with the comments above.  WD-40 is a SOLVENT.  (a mixture of Kerosene + ATF does a good job as well.)  Then motor oil as a lubricant for the cylinder walls, piston rings and skirts.

Rods and mains...same motor oil.  (...see a pattern here???)    I like using motor oil, because I KNOW that it is compatible with the break in oil that I'm going to run.  No chance of contamination or mixing.  Everything that ends up in the pan will be the same motor oil that I run.

As long as you prime the engine and build pressure with a priming tool, it all gets washed away with...motor oil!

If you are building an engine now, but don't plan to install it for a few years.  then well, don't do that.