Engine rebuild

[dodj]

I have a couple 440 blocks. Thinking I'd like to try rebuilding my own motor...cuz I'm retired and thought it would be cool to do it myself.
How much should I budget to do a 440 source 512?
Or...with the knowledgeable people on here...some other path other than 440 source?

[tparker]

I did a 340 and stroked it to a 416. I can't recall exactly how much it cost, but I think right around $3,000. This included a new crank(cast), rods & pistons, the usual master rebuild kit. and some minor head work. It would have been my first engine to put together but they only charge about $200 to do it so I figured I'd rather not take a chance and let them. I've since put together a Jeep 4.0 and now wish I did the 340. I supplied the cam and lifters and reused most other parts. I see a lot of people spending $10K and more and I wonder why and how. LOL. Well, not really, time to blue print an engine adds up I guess.

I would guess a 440 wouldn't be too much more unless you went for forged crank and got a lot of balancing and other stuff done, but not sure. WOuld love to hear about your experience when done.

One think to note, make sure you are good with how long it takes. My builder is pretty good (great reputation), but takes a awhile. Luckily I wasn't in a hurry.

[Chryco Psycho]

$3500 should get most of the needed parts , lots of variables , Cam & lifters around $300 roller cam & lifters $1200+

[RUNCHARGER]

I think the 440 source stroker kits are good value for the money. with a 512 I would bolt on some Trick Flow 240's, use a solid lifter roller camshaft.Then price out the timing chain, pushrods and the rest of the items you need. Will need the block cleaned, bored, cam bearings installed etc. I haven't priced a build out lately but I would guess it's going to be $12k CDN or so.
I would have someone you trust double check the balance on the stroker kit and also double check the valve job and valve guide clearance on the heads along with seat pressure. I also like to install a 1/2 oil pickup and use a 70-71 repro Hemi oil pan with a mild build. Freight on parts is starting to be a pretty big cost these days.

[Headjam]

In 2017, I completely rebuilt my original 383 Magnum and it cost me about $7,500. Prices are surely higher today.

New 0.030 over pistons and rings
Polished original crankshaft
Line bored the crank and cam bores
Complete cylinder head rebuild with hardened seats and bronze guides
Magnaflux block and heads
Balanced everything including the original rods
All new bolt set
Lunati cam, lifters and springs
Lots of odds and ends like oil pump, rear seal holder, freeze plugs, and gaskets

I didn't dyno it but if you wanted to add $600 or so.

I put the motor together and painted it.

I'd guess it would cost closer to $10,000 today.

[Katfish]

If you're going to spend $10k, sell the old stuff and do a Gen 3 swap.  Best thing I've done, you won't regret it.

[RUNCHARGER]

What could possibly go wrong with a gen III? Not for me but different strokes for different folks.

[Katfish]

Well that settles that, a modern engine broke.
It would probably be easier to get a pic of Bigfoot, than find a pic of an old engine on blocks........they last forever.
You putting a 440 or 383 into that truck?

All joking aside,

If you want to stay period correct, I respect that.
But, if you really want to drive the car, no comparison.
No doubt it will cost more, but worth every penny
My only regret is not doing it sooner.

Stop by, I'll loan you my car for a couple of days, you'll be a believer.

[dodj]

Stop by, I'll loan you my car for a couple of days, you'll be a believer.

What manual transmissions are available to go behind the G3? What do you figure a reasonably fresh G3 and trans would cost compared to a 440 rebuild?

[Katfish]

Gen3's have the same bolt pattern as a SB, so anything that works on a SB is a direct bolt on.
I have a 518 and wouldn't do the Gen3 unless you get OD.
Obviously the new stuff works, but that brings more computers into the mix and usually requires tunnel surgery.

As for cost, good discussion here:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/3309474/where-did-you-get-your-gen-iii-best-option-to-get.html#Post3309474
 

[Katfish]

I will add, you need to be realistic with how you plan to drive the car.
If you drive <1000 miles/yr (like most here), go to shows and just cruise locally, I'd stay with the 440.  Looks impressive when you pop the hood, and who cares about mileage.
But my goal was to drive a LOT, I jump in my car now and it's nothing to get on the hwy for 2-3hrs and get 20mpg.
I've driven more miles in the last 2yrs than the previous 10.

I have a friend who refuses to drive his 440-6 Cuda every year because the car show is 3hrs away, so the car sits in his garage and he drives a Mustang, different strokes for different folks.


 

[dodj]

Hmmm. I went out and looked at the present 440. I have Stealth aluminium heads, prw SS rockers, New Holley S Dominator intake. So I guess what I'm really after is the cost of doing the short block? Crank/rods/pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump timing chain etc, machine work.
EFI could be on the list even though the QF 850dp has been excellent.

[DeathProofCuda]

I never took the time to add up the costs, but when I did my own motor I spent a bunch on new specialty tools.

[Katfish]

Sounds like you're more than 1/2 way there,
Build the 440 short block.

[tparker]

I like the idea of having an engine that is much more reliable but I struggle with the idea of sticking a modern motor into an old car. Just can't get past that. Oddly enough I am not adverse to a modern transmission and tires. LOL.

But my real issue is EVERY car I have had a computer in has gone bad except for my current Mazda, but I figure that is only a matter of time. I am so sick of modern cars and the reliance on computers. In every case, there was nothing wrong with the car but the computer. In most cases it made troubleshooting a nightmare because the computer was telling me some sensor was bad so I would replace it multiple times and still have an issue. Why multiple times, because I have gotten bad parts from the auto parts store. Then I would chase down electrical issues: a loose wire, a short, or open circuit? Then after all other issues are exhausted, I replace the computer. Ugh. No easy way to interface and test computers. And of course I can't get new computers for my Jeep and Truck, so I have to rely on sketchy aftermarket dealers. I get so frustrated that I keep swearing I am going to sell all my cars and just get something pre '75. I  get a smile every time I jump into the '67 D100 and know it will run if it is mechanically sound, unlike my Dakota. I just can't imagine myself willfully putting a computer into the Challenger.