Engine removal

[fireguyfire]

My winter project on the 73 challenger is just ahead on the horizon and I'm looking for some info.
My 73 has a 1970 383 engine in it which I am going to pull, put back to look original, and paint.
When the engine is on the stand I have some minor rust repairs in the engine bay I want to fix, then I will repaint the engine bay back to its factory colour.
I have already has the A833 4 speed transmission out and rebuilt it, as well I have fully rebuilt the front suspension of the car.
Because of this I was hoping I could leave the A833 in place, pull the rad and the fan and then slide the engine forward and then up and out.
Will I have enough clearance with the rad out to clear the input shaft and bring just the 383 up out of the car?

[70 Challenger Lover]

Yes with the radiator out. You will have to lift the engine up a couple inches first before you can slide it forward to clear the mount perches. Because of this, the trans will also get lifted a little. It might help to put a block under the trans to hold it up and add a smaller block once the trans if lifted up so it doesn't drop after separation.

[Cuda Cody]

   Yup, it can be done!    Taking the hood off helps.

[7E-Bodies]

In a separate post, could you please share the vin stamping from that 70 engine? Someone may be trying to find it. If so, it could work out well for you.

[anlauto]

In a separate post, could you please share the vin stamping from that 70 engine? Someone may be trying to find it. If so, it could work out well for you.

I think he's still using the engine, just going to make it look more stock ???

I know you can pull a motor out that way, but it's going to be a PITA putting it back in that way 

[fireguyfire]

I did post up the casting number out of curiosity several months ago; if I remember correctly the engine was made in May of 1970 for a 70 Challenger

[Rich G.]

For the extra 1/2 hour it'll take to pull the trans I'd do that rather than trying to fight with the engine trying to put it back in. Unless you get that clutch absolutely perfectly lined up you'll have a fight on your hands wiggling that engine trying to slide it in.

[fireguyfire]

Anlauto, you are correct my plan is to reuse the engine at least for now. It has direct connection valve covers, early Holley street dominator intake and matching carb, and old school hooker headers on it right now; my goal will be to put it back to stone stock.
So you are suggesting the best option would be to drop the tranny first?

[dodj]

I know you can pull a motor out that way, but it's going to be a PITA putting it back in that way 

I think most people do it that way though? It's the only way I've done it. Probably 20 engines through my life and no one ever suggested out the bottom. Different cars and brands, maybe some can't go out the bottom after factory assy?

Though when I build my 512, (1st retirement project) I will definitely raise the car instead of the motor.

[anlauto]

For the extra 1/2 hour it'll take to pull the trans I'd do that rather than trying to fight with the engine trying to put it back in. Unless you get that clutch absolutely perfectly lined up you'll have a fight on your hands wiggling that engine trying to slide it in.

This is what I'm referring to. Taking it out won't be an issue, it's putting it back in that will have it's challenges.

You can always remove the transmission later and clean it up a bit at the same time, put them back in together 

[dodj]

I think you can loosen the pressure plate bolts so the clutch plate can move to make it a little easier.

[72 Challenger]

My project to make my cars more valuable/saleable is always to clean up the engine bay. I did it to my 74 Challenger, my 72 Challenger, my uncles 1967 Mercury Cougar, another uncles 1970 Mach 1 mustang and I am currently adding details to my 1970 Duster. After having done many of these engine out jobs I will always remove engines and re install them with the trans attached. You can get all the bolts lined up, paint done nicely without access issues or getting chips from slipped wrenches or dropped ratchets. Mating the trans to the engine afterwards in the car is way harder then taking out the trans support and slipping the whole thing in there as one unit, putting a floor jack under the trans snout and gently lifting it into place.

I also take hoods off. It may chip the paint on the hood to hinge bolts, but nothing a small artists brush and some body colour paint can't fix.

Since you have all winter, take your time. It's a great project and you will definitely enjoy the results. Great time to tackle some projects that suck while you are under the car like oil pan gaskets, rear main seals, trans gaskets, oil pump, powersteering boxes etc...

I don't have any pictures with me at work but if a hobbyist like me can do it, any bozo can! but definitely remove the trans with the engine. 

[RUNCHARGER]

I change the engines that way a lot. Trickiest part is taking the hood on and off. Sometimes it takes a few minutes guiding the input shaft into the clutch but it isn't that hard. I do it with Hemis so the smaller wedge engine is cake.
When it's going back in have the front of the trans jacked up and touching the floor tunnel. Watch when you're slowly guiding the engine back that the input shaft is going into the center of the clutch and keep your distance between the bellhousing and trans even all around. If it doesn't go right in make sure the input is lined up correctly and turn the engine over a slight bit with a bar. I do it by myself without a helper all the time.

[Chryco Psycho]

I always drop the engine & trans out the bottom in one piece , just a better way to handle it overall

[fireguyfire]

So im thinking after hearing all the input that I will remove the engine and manual transmission as a unit; I am removing the hood anyway so after I pull the rad and everything else it should be fairly easy.
A question regarding disconnecting and removing the power steering pump; which is the best way to do it to try and keep the fluid mess to a minimum? Is it better to disconnect the hoses at the gearbox end, or the pump end?