heads for a 383 with stroker kit

[GoMangoBoys]

We are getting ready to start moving on the engine build for our 70 Challenger.  The engine that came with the car was a 66/67 383.  The heads on it are a 2406516-6.  It looks like these should have 2.08/1.6 valves, but I find conflicting information about combustion chamber size.
We are going to stroke it to 432ish.  I am trying to decide what to do regarding heads.
I see 3 options.
1.  Use these
2. Acquire other stock / cast iron heads.
3. Buy aluminum heads.
I have no experience with Mopar engines.  Please advise on these choices.  Can someone point out a source for "better" factory heads?  Any aluminum heads that are particularly good?
The car will be used for street driving, not racing. 
One other question regarding these heads that I have is do they have hardened valve seats?  I am pretty sure that the answer is "no".  I have to ask, but I think a machine shop can install hardened valve seats if I use them.
Thanks.

[Cuda Cody]

@Chryco Psycho  is good with head combos.  I thought the 516 were good heads because they are closed chamber?

[1 Wild R/T]

516's have small ports & small c chambers... They don't have gardened seats....
For a street motor I'd probably buy the stealths...  But I'd spend allot of time looking at the TF240's..

[Todd489]

I have the 383/489 stroker, im using the 440 source aluminum heads that have been ported, in my opinion I wouldn't waste time on cast iron heads, my engine is pushing nearly 600 horsepower and over 600 foot pounds of torque on pump gas, did you get the stroker kit already? They do make a 3.9 stroke for the 383 also which will bring it to $452 cubic inches.

[Chryco Psycho]

As a comparison I have made 660 HP using 915 iron heads on a 512 stroker on a streetable build below 6000 rpm
With my Duster built back in 85 I made similar power using 516 heads with larger valves & hardened seats with a non stroked 449 build
Right now I would agree with Wild & look at the Trick Flow 240 heads as best value for the $$ Stealths are also good value .
Make sure you have quench with the build it really is the most important factor to get power without detonation

[fronteyejack]

For street driving,nothing replace iron head.Best of them is 452 heads with harden valve seat.
I have use both stealth and iron
If you wanna take weight on the car,then aluminum is good and forward to racing.
Just my 3 cent.

[RUNCHARGER]

I too like the 3.9 crank. Ditto on the Stealth or Trickflows. If it was mine I would go to Trickflows but you said you aren't going to race it so perhaps the Stealths would work for you. You could work your iron heads to do a decent job but it will cost as much as changing to Stealths.

[Chryco Psycho]

For me the 452 has nothing to offer , install new hardened seats in any head & you do not have recessed seats , the 452 is open chamber so no quench So it's the same as any head 68 up , the 906 has abetter intake floor , I would use a 915 or 516 over any other production head except the Max Wedge

[GoMangoBoys]

Thank you all for the input.  I have a couple follow up questions.
1.  What is closed chamber vs open chamber?  I have not heard this term before.
2.  Several people have referred to the "stealth heads"  Are these from "440 source"?  http://store.440source.com/Stealth-Aluminum-Cylinder-Head-COMPLETE-SINGLE-HEAD/productinfo/200-1055/
3.  Are the stealth heads Made in the USA?

[1 Wild R/T]

Stealth heads are the 440 Source heads, they are made in China....

Closed chamber vs open chamber... the shiny chamber is an open chamber

[RUNCHARGER]

They theory with the closed chamber heads is that you create a "quench" or squish area between the head and piston that spot and that allows you to run a slightly higher compression ratio without being susceptible to detonation. It's something that we try to achieve in wedge engines.

[GoMangoBoys]

Does anyone have any experience with the Edelbrock heads?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60929?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI59DO3YDm5gIVCr3ACh0HKghzEAQYASABEgLBKfD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5090

I am partial to the Made in the USA stuff.   I like Trick Flow for sure since they are a VERY local company to me, but the Edelbrock are also Made in the USA.

[1 Wild R/T]

I have a set of the Edelbrocks, pretty good for what I paid but the price has gone up a bunch since then...  I agree, I prefer to support American workers & the Edelbrocks work well, The Stealth on the other hand is so close to the Edelbrock port design that many head porting services use the same CNC program for both heads.... So the Stealth is cheaper which many guys choose over USA..

As far as an explanation of Quench...

I saved this years ago from KB's site.. I think it explains alot..

Take a coffee can full of gasoline burning with slow flicking flame. Strike the can with a baseball bat and you have what I would call a fast burn, much like what we want in the combustion chamber. The fast burn idea helps our performance engine by shortening the overall burn time and the amount of spark lead (negative torque) dialed in with the distributor. If you go from 36 degrees total to 32 degrees total and power increases, you either shortened the burn time or just had too much timing dialed-in in the first place. If you have really shortened the burn time, you won't need so much burning going on before Top Dead Center. Now you can retard timing and increase HP. Did you ever have an engine that didn't seem to care what timing it had? This is not the usual case with a fast burn combustion but an old style engine with big differences in optimum timing cylinder to cylinder will need 40 degrees of timing on some and others only need 26 degrees. If you set the distributor at 34 degrees, it is likely that 4 cylinders will want more timing and 4 cylinders will want less ( V-8). Moving the timing just changes, which cylinders are doing most of the work. Go too far and some cylinders may take a vacation. Now what does quench really do? First, it kicks the burning flame front across and around the cylinder at exactly TDC in all cylinders. Even with spark scatter, the big fire happens as the tight quench blasts the 32 degree old flame around the chamber. Just as with the coffee can, big flame or small flame, hit it with a baseball bat and they are all big instantly

[Chryco Psycho]

My experience with Eddy heads is they are easily 2x the price of the Stealth heads from 440 Source .
We dynoed an engine with my ported 452 heads & $3500 later had the engine running with Eddy Rpm heads which I also ported , the net RWHP gain was 3 hp so just over $1000 for each HP , it was interesting to swap as we had to use different headers & had to flycut the pistons for valve clearance as the Eddy heads had the valves in a slightly different position , what a pain to swap out .
I would avoid Eddy heads they have terrible core shift don't make significant Hp & are very expensive & don't even ask about the Eddy Victors 

[70Barracuda]

I am head shopping, searching brought up this thread from a year ago.  Do the Stealths actually flow the OOTB numbers they claim?  The man at 440source told me the Trickflows are above and beyond much better.