Help me LA'ify my soon to own 5.9!

[gzig5]

I've seen that recommended quite often, but not in reference to the eccentric, but getting more oil on the chain.  I don't see how it would hurt anything.

[kawahonda]

Things I have accomplished today:

1) Installed timing chain and sprockets WITH tensioner. That Cloyes tensioner is serious business. I had to remove the "pin" which cased it to be in a bind and make my own pin-setup. It even took additional "prying" to reducing the tension in order to barely manage to slip the sprocket/chain on. Finally got it on. It's a super tight fit.

2) Installed degree wheel, socket, and pointer.

3) Loosened #3 main and pumped crank forward, backward, and retorqued. Checked end trust at .004".

Then I started to get side tracked. Ever since I brought the short block home (the last time), I noticed a "rattle" noise whenever I rotated the block around on the stand. It appears that it's coming from inside the block (water jacket). It sounds metallic. I'm not sure if it's completely normal to hear a rattle noise when rotating a short-block on the stand or not. If this is NOT NORMAL, then with help and another person, I will identify which area of the block and start knocking freeze plugs out.

[kawahonda]

My teacher-builder came by. We popped out some freeze plugs. Used a remote camera to investigate the noise.

Found one whole freeze plug dangling in there. Found a metal circlip object. Noise is now pretty much almost gone. I think there's something minor and slight in there still, so I may do some more fishing tomorrow. It would be fine-as-is to leave alone, but since I already removed 3 freeze plugs, best to fish all I can out.

We measured the push rods and started to degree the cam We think the factory push-rods might be OK. Got lots of questions answered. Feel like It's time to continue to proceed forward.

[kawahonda]

Pic of items found in block.

Some other progress pics too.

Primed oil pump. Added sealant on tube fitting. Added block locktite to stud nut. Torqued this nut to 40lbs. I also measured pan clearance to pickup tube to be about 3/8", in spec.

Assembled timing chain components fully, including fuel pump eccentric and tensioner.

Installed a few spare freeze plugs. Will need to order another set since I'd rather not reuse the plugs I knocked out. If I was in a pinch, maybe, but I have time and a little cash to burn. Do it right.

We think original pushrods will work. I'm not a fan of the "puzzle pieces" push rod retainers. Seems chinsey to me. Maybe it's fine. I wouldn't mind ordering solid 1-piece pushrod retainers.

We will work on degreeing the cam soon.

[kawahonda]

I'm considering finding 1-peice push rod guides as opposed to using these adjustable "puzzle peice" guides. I think welding (at least a good strong tack weld) is recommended, but I feel like I'd rather spend a little money to get one peice, if I can find one piece.

I came across these:

Comp Cam's Magnum 4825-8

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4825-8

I have 7/16" studs, and 5/16" push-rods. One necessary modification would be to drill out the stud holes from 5/16" to 7/16" so that they would fit around the studs. That's easy and I'm fine doing that.

I measured 1.90" center-to-center for the stud spacing on the heads. Since I'm using "Magnum" heads and these are "Magnum" guideplates, this is probably correct.

I fitted two pushrods with the adjustable guideplates that I have now, and my center-to-center pushrod guide slot is also 1.90".

I asked Comp, and I recieved the most generic answers. I asked for dimensions and they couldn't supply it.

For $20, is it worth picking these up and trying them out, in order to have 1-piece retainers?

[kawahonda]

Is it common/OK for rocker arms to be slightly "cocked" when centered on the valve tips? They are not "dead on" straight.....just want to check before I tack weld the guide plates.

[Chryco Psycho]

as long as the pushrod is not rubbing the intake runner you are OK

[kawahonda]

My father warned me against Dodge. Said they built $hit cars...

But over the past 2 years he has secretly fallen in love with the Challenger....has learned the #'s matching codes......and had a blast helping me assemble vlave train. Keep in mind he tow'd it home.....

He's definitely a Challenger fan. I'd even say he's starting to like Chrysler motors.

"it's all the same"

That is the truth.

[RUNCHARGER]

Having worked on all the 60's-70's era cars I appreciate Chrysler's engineering from that time frame and think they have mostly superior ideas. People generally like whats they are familiar with of course.

[kawahonda]

Alright....been a little busy with a brake rehaul which is entering its final phase. And with my job. But today I had a chance to press forward.

Long story short, I spent about 8 hours trying to degree the cam with the Comp Cam $70 timing set. It wasn't the cheapest set, but it was one step up from that. My dad and I first spent 5-6 hours one night. On the straight-up setting, we kept getting 110-112. We then advanced it 4 degrees, and we ended up at like 103 degrees. The camcard calls for 106 because it has 4 degrees built-in.

I had my engine builder come over and check our work, and sure enough, he came to the same conclusion. He prompted me to throw away the shitty comp timing set and get to a get trick-flow set that has 2 degree increments. It was only a little bit more than what I paid for the comp set, so shame on me.

Today I threw the trickflow set on. Decided to give it a try at 2 degrees advanced. Came in at 107.5 degrees intake centerline, and 112 degrees exhaust centerline. Perfect, going to call that set, and a 408 should love that. Will help some with traction. So with a quality timing set: first try.

I don't blame anything on the comp camp timing set. Perhaps if you're not using a tensioner like I'm using it may work "OK". Either way, do NOT skip degreeing a cam. It's amazing how many people do that.

I then proceeded to finally get my arse in gear for the pushrod guide-plates. These are the two piece style. Some people don't weld them together. Others do. I decided to weld mine together. As of today, all are welded together and installed. Hughes push rods installed. Next step is to torque the studs down, install rockers, install timing distributor shaft gear, valley-pan thing, and bolt the LD340 up!

I basically had to tack weld each set twice while installed on the engine. I then removed and welded the rest, grinded, cleaned, and reinstalled. It makes me VERY nervous welding over an open engine. I did spend considerable about of time with my magnetic tools getting ALL slag out. It doesn't matter how much towels you lay down...some slag will end up. I feel pretty confident that the engine is clean and ready to go!

[RUNCHARGER]

Comp Cams stuff is generally in the "okay" category. You can usually find better stuff for the same price elsewhere I've found.

[kawahonda]

I spent quite awhile in the shop today. My goal was to simply torque rocker studs and install rockers.

Apparently, welded guideplates didn't seem to work for me. As soon as they are torqued down, they will shift/change charactoristics. I spent about 2-3 hours just trying to get one to align. When the studs are "snug" it's perfectly alignment. As soon as you torque it to 52lbs, even if you do it little by little, it all goes out the window. I tried prying on the guide-plates with a screw-diver during torquing as well.

I think if you wanted to weld adjustable guide plates, you should tack weld only after torqued. I tacked when it was "tight" with a wrench. Apparently, not good enough. 

For now, I think I will re-order a set, and not weld. Each guide plate is being held be a stud that's under 52lbs of force. Plus they sort of "interlock" together. Welding is really not needed, so I will forgo that next time.

[kawahonda]

The Edelbrock one piece guide plates showed up today. Check out how well I can get alignment.

I found the secret is using a large flathead as a way to pry during torquing. This will keep the plate from walking.

[kawahonda]

One side is done. Didn't set lash yet. Will wait until I finish other side to do that. This takes a lot longer than I thought it would. Most of the time is spent fine tuning alignment.

My rocker alignment isn't as pretty as what was pictured in previous post after fully torquing for all valves. Some look like that, but others only get about 70% (at worst) stem contact. Another way to say it, is that the meaty part of the roller is pretty much at the edge of the fat part of the stem....it may be a microscopic amount over (if I cock the rocker all the way to make it a worse-case scenario).

I think this is good to go. If you want perfect, then you'll need to get the two-piece guides.

[kawahonda]

Here's an example of worse case scenario. Fully cocked to make it look as off center as possible. I believe this is a-ok?

I am a perfectionist if you haven't figured that out yet. LOL.