Help me LA'ify my soon to own 5.9!

[Bullitt-]

I don't know what reproduction plug wires your referring to that are "really good" but 10+years ago I got the orange Mopar set... They were very short and others had the same complaint... Found the same issue seems to continue based on the 2-reviews on this Amazon item

https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B000A8MWA8/ref=acr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

I then exchanged them for a set of black MSD wires that Summitt recommended & had fitment issues with those as well..  I ended up remaking some & replacing a couple, basically making my own.   I've read many other posts that that's about the only way to get proper fitment.   Firecore may be the exception  https://www.manciniracing.com/marafafitfiw2.html

[kawahonda]

Those Firecore wires look pretty decent! I really love the red-boot look.

The one I've heard really good reviews on are these (as in, cut perfectly):

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/rj48

They are date coded and such, but they are "ignition points only!"

I wonder if the fire-core are "points only" as well.

I don't know anything about wires, so I'm just trying to learn everything I can.

1) Right now I have non-factory wires. They are black. I checked the OHMs on a couple and they seemed good. But these wires are probably many many years old.

2) I'm running performance points now, and will continue to run the same distributor/points over to the 408 build. I "may" in the future to change to petronix depending on how difficult NOS performance points are hard to find.

3) I tested my coil at 1.5 OHMs, 9.26k.

So kinda not sure if I should just plop it all over to the 408, or leave some stuff behind on the 340.

[Bullitt-]

Those Firecore wires look pretty decent! I really love the red-boot look.

The one I've heard really good reviews on are these (as in, cut perfectly):

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/rj48

Those look nice so if they really "fit" I'd say your OK either way..
The only difference I'm aware of is the coil for electronic vs point is different, how I don't know..
basically after the juice leaves the coil the lower the resistance the better from what I understand & I can't imagine their going to the trouble of making actual wire for "points" 

[kawahonda]

I'm at the point where I have almost just about every thing to build a separate 340 look-alike engine, minus a few things that I'll transplant (distributor, heat shield, air cleaner, and manifolds).

There's a couple other "need to find" things. Throttle return spring, throttle return bracket, throttle cable bracket, and coolant flange. Everything else, I have.

I'm taking "leave alone the 340" very serious! Though, I do want to restore it next. Lots of things not pictured here...I have iron ported heads, fully rotating short-block, lifters, adjustable roller rockers, lifters, HV oil pump, timing chain assy, etc.

[kawahonda]

Some progress today.

Haven't really assembled stuff on my own before. Seems pretty straight forward though.

Next stop is timing system...need to measure clearances, degree cam, and top it all off with an LD340 that I need to clean. I sandblasted it, so I need to make sure it's super clear. My goal is to leave it upside down in my parts washer for 2-4 days, then high-pressure wash the $hit out of it. May even spray some engine-foam cleaner in there before.

[kawahonda]

I have several things on order.

A couple things need to be done next in order to press forward. I'm curious in which order.

1) I need to degree the camshaft. I have all timing chain components on-hand.

2) I need to verify the push rod length in order to see if I can use the stock magnum rods that I cleaned up.

I've semi-confirmed that I should put the balancer on at the very end, after all that stuff.

[JS29]

I would think you have the order correct! 

[kawahonda]

It's amazing all the little setbacks you have during assembly.

1) The oil pickup tube requires a stud on #3 main cap. OK, ordered a main cap stud from Kevko/AARP, removed both main cap bolts (consistently and carefully) and added a stud on one side ($30) and followed the 3-step re-torque process on that main cap. Sweet. Now, I just need a 3/8" fine grade 8 nut and washer to seal the deal to mount it over the oil pickup tube flange. Found a grade 8 3/8" nut, but all the 3/8" (any grade) washers fit sloppy and look like ass. Not sure what I should do here. Look for a 3/8" flange nut w/ fine thread (impossible to find?) or just mount the damn nut straight up to against the oil pickup flange w/ thread lock...OR use a grade 8 3/8" nut w/ lock washer (looks correct as far as proportions)? My engineer father tells me to NOT use a lock washer in this area.

2) Crankshaft woodruff key from Doorman does not fit my Scat crank. Not only is it too big, but it's beveled...and the scat crank has a rounded insert machining. I emailed Scat. Quite shocking to me why they wouldn't include the matching key with the stoker kit. My guess is it uses a chebby key, but we'll find out.

Little stupid $hit like that could delay a build a week.

[RUNCHARGER]

#3 Main is the thrust bearing. It controls the front to back movement of the crankshaft. You will have to loosen the two main stud nuts and with a mallet hit the front of the crank and then the back of the crank to seat the main cap and bearing again. Then retighten. Otherwise the main bearings may not be aligned with each other and they'll wear or cause the thrust surface of the crank to wear.

[kawahonda]

I'm trying to make sure this is the correct key. It matches the width that scat told me. However, the shape of the insert portion is different. The crank has a half-moon shaped insert, where as the key is beveled...

It's also a bear to install, so I'm wanting to ask if the shape difference is normal before I start tapping it in again.

Edit: Scat told me to proceed with that key. May need some filing.

Runcharger: I'm starting to worry about what you said. I think you're asking me to loosen it back up again, tap the crank (rotating assembly is all in place, so it's likely going to require a "good" tap) side to side, then retorque? When installed the stud, I did not remove the end cap....I highly doubt it moved any. But I think you're concerned that the bearing may have moved during loosening?

[kawahonda]

After installing the tensioner, I have no idea how this timing set is going to go on.

Any tips?

Edit: Looks like the tensioner arm is in a bind. Going to have to cut/break the release plunger/pin to free it up. It will make the installation more difficult, but gonna have to do it!

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: If the center main bearings aren't perfectly aligned they will scrape the thrust surface of the crankshaft and the clearance will expand in a hurry. Sorry I don't know about the tensioner.

[kawahonda]

Thanks Sheldon. Is this basically the step-by-step process that I need to perform:

With the bearings and crank in place, set the trust cap at 10-15 lb-ft of torque on the bolts.
Using a rubber mallet, tap the crank forward (I may choose to use my steel mallet with hardwood here)
Now torque the main cap bolts/studs
We pry back on crank using a long screwdriver, then zero the dial indicator and then pry the crank lightly forward to read the total clearance

Spec: .002-.007

[RUNCHARGER]

Pretty much; I tap the crank forward and then back, then tighten fully and then check clearance.

[kawahonda]

What do you think about this drilling "mod" to allow additional oil for the fuel pump eccentric?

If the LA blocks didn't have this, then I'm not sure why this mod is recommended? Have you guys heard of it? If I choose to do it, then I need to do this nearly next before degreeing the cam.