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Help me LA'ify my soon to own 5.9!

Started by kawahonda, August 21, 2019, 02:38:00 PM

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jimynick

What happened to the "hone only"? Why poke the whole block to .040? Why not have those super machinists source you a single .040 piston and rings, match it's weight to the other 7 and do the one cylinder only. This isn't a NASCAR engine and why go to all the expense if it's not required? As for a free sonic check, they'd be doing it on their block, because they've had to find me another after screwing up in that fashion!  :rolleyes:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

JS29

Sleeve it at, there expense or replace it at there expense.  :yes:

kawahonda

I'm going to request them to sonic check the block and to let me know full detail before I move to .040.

Decide then.

While I'm upset, please understand that this isn't a date coded or rare block guys. Don't want to pick a fight with them or to explode the situation. 
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


YellowThumper

Quote from: kawahonda on December 18, 2019, 07:04:42 AM
I'm going to request them to sonic check the block and to let me know full detail before I move to .040.

Decide then.

While I'm upset, please understand that this isn't a date coded or rare block guys. Don't want to pick a fight with them or to explode the situation.

Understand not wanting to explode a situation but that is a significant error...
Sonic testing would not be a bad option. But you also have to understand these later motors have less casting to start with. My first concern with overbore is heat dissipation.
Obviously your intended usage will ultimately dictate decisions. Simple setup with an occasional romp. No problem. Now take same setup to track or many freeway miles in 100 degree weather. You will have cooling issues.

Reminder to you that these motors are a dime a dozen.
My "method" would be to have them replace block with another. Probably lower cost for them and better piece of mind for you.

My2c
Mike.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

kawahonda

Here's my thinking. My engine builder is thinking I am blowing this all out of proportion.

This is what feels right to me, regardless of what my builder thinks:

Preference 1. Replace the block. They've offered to replace it with a "good block" that they think they have in the shop. TELL THEM TO ONLY BORE WHAT THEY NEED TO BORE. Don't let them give me the "standard .030 over bullshit" that they did for my current block. If they need to find a block, fine, I have time. Anything from 1993-2003 will work. I have time, I'm not in a hurry.

Reasons against this: My block that I gave them I at least was able to inspect and know somewhat of the history of. With "their" block, I don't know its origins. It could have been sitting outside for 15 years for all I know. It may have had an internal coolant leak for all I know.

Preference 2. SONIC CHECK my block, and provide me with a report of cylinder thickness. I want to know if .040" over is pushing it, or if there's plenty of room for .040" over. This will tell me IF I will have cooling issues in the future. It may be that in this specific block, there's plenty of thickness, and I shouldn't be overly concerned. With this option, I still expect them that Sonic Checking should be on the house, and I even expect further "sorry, we messed up so the boring charge is also on us." This could be a good option.

Preference 3. Have them pay me for the block ($250) and find another/take my business elsewhere. This would net me $180 in profit not including the gas--which I damn well earned from finding the block, transporting the block, and this bullshit that I had to put up with.

Opinions vary widely on the Magnum casing. Believe me that I've spent 2 hours last night scouring every inch of the internet and asking opinions from people that know a little bit about these blocks. Dodge says .020" is max overbore, others say that's pure bullshit. Others say .040" is safe. Others say up to .060 is max. Other's say .030" should be max. But the most consistent thing I've read is to have it SONIC CHECKED! No two blocks are the same.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

RUNCHARGER

Sheldon

YellowThumper

Good assessment. Your #1 is also my #1.
Many to chose from so replacements are cheap.

Second, if I recall correctly the "standard" 30 overbore pistons would be more common. This being lower cost to source.

As for the factory .020 limit this would cover every motor without exception. They cannot make exceptions for unique 1 off rebuilds. Again sonic will tell a lot for casting shift issues.

To throw another wrench in decision. Overbore now will eliminate any future bore options if something goes bad later.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.


kawahonda

Updated Preferences:

Preference 1. Replace the block. Bore only what's needed.

Preference 2. They should sleeve what they gunked up on them. Bore it to correct .030 size.

Preference 3. Have them pay me for the block ($250) and find another/take my business elsewhere. This would net me $180 in profit not including the gas--which I damn well earned from finding the block, transporting the block, and this bullshit that I had to put up with.

I updated Preference 2 because it is better to sleeve a cylinder to keep the all the bore sizes smaller than it is to just continue to punch everything out larger. AGREE?

Going to call them and go over preference 1 and 2. I won't mention 3 unless necessary.

I also should confirm that they are using torque plates for boring.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Called him. I feel better now.

I mentioned two options. Find another block, or sleeve it. He listened.

He doesn't prefer sleeving--he doesn't like the heat transfer properties of adding a joint. "Nothing beats a factory bore."

He asked me (which is kinda funny to ask at this point) how hard I'm going to run it. I told him I may take it to the strip a few times. I told him I want to drive it at 100F on the highway spinning 3400 RPMs when I need to.

"OK, I'm going to get you a new block. It will be a pain in the ass for me, but it's the right thing to do for you. I want to make it right."

I told him 1993-2003. Have at it, and keep me updated.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

YellowThumper

Spot on with "requirements". True or not, it sets the tone this is not just another factory good enough rebuild.

Good for you he is stepping up to the plate.

Carry on.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

JS29

Your engine guy sounds like a stand up guy.   :perfect10:


kawahonda

#56
To clarify, there's two terms that I want to use:

"Engine Guy" should mean my builder--I may refer to him that way. He's guiding me towards a superb tried-and-true 408 build. Known in the community for small block Mopars. Offered to help rebuild the engine. Guides me to the build, what to buy, what to order, and to not make stupid decisions. Knows my goals, and is there to help me achieve them. Let's me use his shop for blasting. Advice 24/7. Mopar guru. Awesome dude...so cool. He's the reason I'm even posting about a rebuild in the first place.

Then there is the machinist, which is who I'm referring to here. This machinist was used by someone I know of with great results. Reviews look good for them. Sometimes, a mistake is truly a mistake. This machinist I chose because of word-of-mouth, but also chose to go in order to save $1200 for a basic short-block assembly vs "the absolute best in the area." The other machinist is probably of greater quality, but you gotta pay the prices--some prices looked very subject and added-on unnecessarily. Like clearance a crank for the stoker kit, which it doesn't need. I confirmed to him it doesn't. He said "my estimate is pretty much what you'll pay."

So I chose this other place. The whole point of a magnum swap isn't to pay 340 blue-print NASCAR prices. It's to put a damn, sound, 5.9 stroked magnum in there and make it look like a 340 and scream. That's the whole point of a magnum swap. Not to treat it like an original motor.

Just want to be clear, in case in the future I say "engine guy" I don't want you guys confuse that with the machinist. My engine guy is a damn fine stand up guy. He should be on this forum, but he doesn't have an e-body.

It's the machinist that caused me to loose sleep last night, but after the phone call today, I do feel like I'm in good hands.

Thanks for the comments everyone. Yellowthumper, I did have to script my responses (felt like it) for the phone call. I f($#ing hate trying to sound like I know what I'm talking about when it comes to engines, when I only have a basic understanding. The last thing I want to do is to come off like a know-it-all. But that phone call went very well. He really was caring, very sorry, and knew it's going to be a pain for him, but I feel like now he's got some blood in this motor for making it right...
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

YellowThumper

Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

kawahonda

What do you guys recommend for a harmonic balancer for the 5.9L 400-450 HP stroker kit? Needs to be OEM-compatible.



1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Crappy pics, but this is going to all come together soon....

EQ Heads w/ 2.02 Exhaust Valves, ported and polished.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66