How common is motor mount failure?

[Chryco Psycho]

the wire rope looks like a great solution , I have made a steel strap across the same mounting points

[7E-Bodies]

@70 Challenger Lover, that small cable looks sleek and discreet. I like it. If you find any info on that, please post a link. I'll be holding down a freshened up, original 440. I'm thinking however that since it's sitting in front of a 727, it "may" be a little more cushioned?  Regardless, that cable would be some good, hidden insurance.

Kevin

[Cudakiller70]

I like that cable fix a lot. It's not rigid letting the motor mount do its job yet with a limit. Paint it black you'll never see it.
My concern is in the picture shown it's a straight pull connector. Would like to see how factory made crimp/connection. Cable is strongest looped as in link shown by wild.

[kawahonda]

I too like that cable idea. Hopefully someone has done this in the past that knows the exact length and a "hot to" guide for installation.

I bet with Magmounts + that cable, you're good for serious HP.

[Burdar]

I wonder if these would work.  Just buy a length of cable, loop the ends and crimp these on.  You could add some solder after crimping for extra strength.  Everything is probably at your local hardware store.

https://www.amazon.com/Ferrules-Stainless-Aircraft-Aluminum-Connector/dp/B06XSLPR3J?SubscriptionId=AKIAI4HFBNQMDQN7Y5PQ&tag=do-it-yourself-store-20&linkCode=sp1&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B06XSLPR3J

[303 Mopar]

Ron added this on an old thread on Dodge Charger - http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html

This mod is required only on the driver side because the passenger side biscuit gets compressed during hard acceleration....so there's no need to work it.

Basically, what you'll be doing is drilling a few holes through the mount and rubber biscuit and installing grade 8 hardware. There are no torque straps or chains needed and the mount looks perfectly stock. I use a conical head bolt along with a flat washer and nylock nut to keep everything in place. The nylock will not back off or need to be retightened once it's installed. The idea is to just snug up the bolt so that there is:

(a) no compression on the rubber biscuit
(b) protection from separation due to engine torque

You'll need some hardware ;

(1) a pair of 3/8 x 21/2 in grade 8 flathead bolts
(2) a pair of 3/8in "nylock" nuts and matching flat washers
(3) a good drill and 3/8in steel bit

[dave73]

I have one of those torque straps on my 440. Before I had it on, when it revved it moved around quite a bit. Now noticeably less

[70 Challenger Lover]

I spent several hours last night trying to find cable solutions and the cleanest quick option is to get a premade cable from the company @1 wildr/t posted. You'd have to be precise on your measurement and communicate with them about the need to keep the length precise but I think it would work well, be very affordable, and look very clean afterward.

I'm not crazy about the torque straps because they are up front are very visible, especially since I don't shave a power steering pump to hide it. If I wasn't trying to keep everything original looking, I wouldn't mind that route at all.

According to what I read, those nice clean looking straps were C body ground straps. Not sure how true that is. If I made one though, I was thinking of using a 1/4" cable, a heavy duty hardware store thimble, and the crimpable sleeves @Burdar displayed for the cleanest look.

Schumacher pieces work well. I had them in my Super Bee because I wanted insurance with all that delicate plastic ramcharger duct work. It occurs to me that they provide two when only one is truly needed. If I went that route, I'd consider only putting on the driver side and saving the other one for another car. They are too expensive to waste.

I think @303 Mopar might have the winning solution here. That looks simple yet effective, cheap as hell, and totally invisible. Should prove to be a very lasting modification and unlike a strap, I can easily control how much slack I allow the rubber before the safety bolt takes hold. The cable and chain idea had me thinking that you could still shear a mount if there was too much slack in there and might not even realize it ever. If I had a 600 hp stroker, I'd just break down and do a torque strap or Schumacher mount but in a car I'm going to put up for sale, it's just more money out that I won't get back.

If someone had time on their hands and was a little industrious, they could make those clean looking cables at the precise length, soldier the crimps as Burdar suggested, and sell them for $60 a pop. I could see tons of us Mopar guys buying them as a clean alternative to the torque strap and an affordable alternative to the expensive Schumacher pieces.

[kawahonda]

btw, it keeps getting ignored, but the MagMounts (cheap) have a modified driver's side mount that is similar to the "mod" that is posted above. I don't know enough to go into the finer details though.

[dodj]

I think @303 Mopar might have the winning solution here. That looks simple yet effective, cheap as hell, and totally invisible. Should prove to be a very lasting modification and unlike a strap, I can easily control how much slack I allow the rubber before the safety bolt takes hold.

So buy a mag mount from Mancini and you are done,  or buy a regular mount and put the bolt in yourself. 

[HP2]

I think @303 Mopar might have the winning solution here. That looks simple yet effective, cheap as hell, and totally invisible. Should prove to be a very lasting modification and unlike a strap, I can easily control how much slack I allow the rubber before the safety bolt takes hold.

So buy a mag mount from Mancini and you are done,  or buy a regular mount and put the bolt in yourself. 

Exactly. if your concerned about your mount breaking, drill a hole in it, install a flat head socket cap screw through it with enough length to allow some movement, locktite the retaining nuts, stop worrying.

Or use solid mounts.

BTW, the Schumaker aftermarket torque strap does allow some flex since it sits in a rubber bushing.