Is this the right way to test the ballast resistor

[blown motor]

I've got no spark so I pulled the wires off the ballast resistor. With the key on I used my probe light to determine which wires were powered and put them back on the resistor. Then with probe I tested the spades on the other end of the resistor and I had power. So resistor is good, yes?

[Bullitt-]

 Sound's like your resistor is good, are you getting power to the + side of coil while cranking?

[blown motor]

I'll check that. I just started troubleshooting this and didn't have much time. It's wing night, priorities.

[blown motor]

As a further note to this the car has been hard to start when it has sat for a couple days. Once it starts and runs it's fine.
I have a spark tester that you clip on the plug wire and to ground and you can see the spark. In my 20 minutes or so of trying to figure this out I excited the starter several times but only saw 2 sparks but a few minutes between each one.
I'll test for power at the coil when I get home, the wings were good. 

[Duodec]

IN addition to making sure you have power at coil positive when cranking and when ignition is just on, hook the test light from coil negative to ground.  It should flash steadily on-off-on-off while cranking.

[MoparLeo]

First make sure the battery has at least 12.6 volts at rest before testing. A low battrey will cause hard start condition.
A Ballast resistor when shorted either works or it doesn't.
 A bad ballast will either not start or will start when cranking the engine, but shut off when you release the key.
 
To test a Mopar ballast resistor, you can use a voltmeter to measure the voltage when the key is turned on:
 1) Connect one lead of the voltmeter to the side coming from the ignition switch.
 2) Connect the other lead of the voltmeter to ground.
 3) Turn the key to the on position.
 4) If the voltage is around 12 volts, the car does not have a ballast resistor.
 5) If the voltage is around 6 to 9 volts, the car has a bad ballast resistor.
  A ballast resistor in a Mopar limits the current flow through the coil while the engine is running. This helps to extend the life of the coil and the distributor's breaker points.

[dodj]

I've got no spark so I pulled the wires off the ballast resistor. With the key on I used my probe light to determine which wires were powered and put them back on the resistor. Then with probe I tested the spades on the other end of the resistor and I had power. So resistor is good, yes?

No. That doesn't really test the resistor. It confirms neither resistor is open, but it could be high resistance causing hard starting or no starting, not running
With no power on the resistor, using ohms scale test each resistor's resistance. Should be something like 1 to 1.2ohms and 4.5 to 5 ohms. Or something like that.

[blown motor]

First make sure the battery has at least 12.6 volts at rest before testing. A low battrey will cause hard start condition.
A Ballast resistor when shorted either works or it doesn't.
 A bad ballast will either not start or will start when cranking the engine, but shut off when you release the key.
 
To test a Mopar ballast resistor, you can use a voltmeter to measure the voltage when the key is turned on:
 1) Connect one lead of the voltmeter to the side coming from the ignition switch.
 2) Connect the other lead of the voltmeter to ground.
 3) Turn the key to the on position.
 4) If the voltage is around 12 volts, the car does not have a ballast resistor.
 5) If the voltage is around 6 to 9 volts, the car has a bad ballast resistor.
  A ballast resistor in a Mopar limits the current flow through the coil while the engine is running. This helps to extend the life of the coil and the distributor's breaker points.

It tested 9 volts

[blown motor]

I've got no spark so I pulled the wires off the ballast resistor. With the key on I used my probe light to determine which wires were powered and put them back on the resistor. Then with probe I tested the spades on the other end of the resistor and I had power. So resistor is good, yes?

No. That doesn't really test the resistor. It confirms neither resistor is open, but it could be high resistance causing hard starting or no starting, not running
With no power on the resistor, using ohms scale test each resistor's resistance. Should be something like 1 to 1.2ohms and 4.5 to 5 ohms. Or something like that.

Both sides tested 2 ohms but that the same as my pw and it starts and runs well. I assume you test top to bottom and not side to side.

[blown motor]

IN addition to making sure you have power at coil positive when cranking and when ignition is just on, hook the test light from coil negative to ground.  It should flash steadily on-off-on-off while cranking.

Power on negative with key on and flashing when cranking.

[DeathProofCuda]

Did you test cranking voltage at positive side of the coil yet, like @Bullitt- suggested? 

If cranking voltage at positive side of coil is less than 9.5 volts, your problem is between battery and coil.  If cranking voltage at positive side of coil is higher than 9.5 volts and you have no spark then your problem is between coil and distributor.

[mtull]

 

Lovin this thread.  Thanks Guys!

[blown motor]

Did you test cranking voltage at positive side of the coil yet, like @Bullitt- suggested? 

If cranking voltage at positive side of coil is less than 9.5 volts, your problem is between battery and coil.  If cranking voltage at positive side of coil is higher than 9.5 volts and you have no spark then your problem is between coil and distributor.

I have not measured cranking voltage on the positive side of the coil. You share good information. I'll be tied up for a while and won't get back at this for a week. That will be the first thing I do. Plus I'll pull the coil wire off the distributor and test for a spark. Need to be sure there is power going to the distributor.

[tparker]

I might get schooled here, but my first thought is that it is a resistor and you can simple do a resistance check on it to verify it is good. Mine had an open back, I suspect they all do, so you can visually inspect as well. Mine was all corroded and near breaking which probably meant the resistance was way to high.

Here are a few good vids from Dead Dodge Garage that might be helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QPUM-fRRSI&list=PL1-gGbje-Jcjz4IOll1BWT9nYaF1e1ft9&index=5&t=0s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Re_L-OlEOo

[dodj]

I've got no spark so I pulled the wires off the ballast resistor. With the key on I used my probe light to determine which wires were powered and put them back on the resistor. Then with probe I tested the spades on the other end of the resistor and I had power. So resistor is good, yes?

No. That doesn't really test the resistor. It confirms neither resistor is open, but it could be high resistance causing hard starting or no starting, not running
With no power on the resistor, using ohms scale test each resistor's resistance. Should be something like 1 to 1.2ohms and 4.5 to 5 ohms. Or something like that.

Both sides tested 2 ohms but that the same as my pw and it starts and runs well. I assume you test top to bottom and not side to side.

Well, both shouldn't test two ohms either. Did you have all the wiring off?
But seeing as you brought up having a dual resistor on the PW, you could have just swapped resistors to confirm/deny  that was your issue.