Lokar Kick Down Cable, any issues?

[tparker]

I was messing around with my throttle and Kickdown linkage and looks like I just can't get it to work smoothly. It is binding up a bit. I wanted to avoid the lokar cable just because I don't like the look of it and would prefer a more traditional looking solution. Is there any reason I would NOT want to get it? I assume it works well and there isn't any reason not to.

my car was originally a 318 that I swapped a 340 into. I had a thermoquad that work with the one piece kickdown linkage, but the AVS style carb doesn't work. I didn't know what I was doing back when I put the Thermoquad on it, but it all worked. I don't recall modifying anything.

also, does any one know which throttle bracket the 340 would use without the kickdown linkage? I will want to source one.

[pschlosser]

also, does any one know which throttle bracket the 340 would use without the kickdown linkage? I will want to source one.

The same bracket is used (in most cases) for both the automatic and manual transmission on most engine combinations.  more or less. there is a post on which the throttle pressure upper bell crank mounts.  Some manual cars may come from the factory with a bracket missing the post.  But that isn't always the case.

my car was originally a 318 that I swapped a 340 into. I had a thermoquad that work with the one piece kickdown linkage, but the AVS style carb doesn't work. I didn't know what I was doing back when I put the Thermoquad on it, but it all worked. I don't recall modifying anything.

Are you still using the 318-engine throttle pressure linkage?  There are two basic styles of OEM throttle pressure linkage for this family of cars, the one-section and the three-section assembly.

On several 318-2 cars I have seen, they come equipped with a one-piece rod, from upper bell crank to the pressure lever on the transmission. 

I don't have enough experience with 340-4 cars to know which one it comes with, so others may chime in, and/or you may need to do some research.

Is there any reason I would NOT want to get it? I assume it works well and there isn't any reason not to.

If you're after a "factory look" then of course, the Lokar Performance product is poorly suited.  That said, once it's set up, it works quite well.  The same could be said for the OEM linkage, once set up, it works great.

Some OEM parts are getting hard to find.  And while they make reproduction setups, they price $$$ tag may bother some.
If money is less a concern, I vote a factory setup all the way.  If your current setup is binding, if you can figure out where/how it is binding, and correct it, you may find it will do the job.

If you don't have a copy of the Factory Service Manual, get one.  There are several free PDFs online and in our resource section.  The exact year does not matter, for this procedure, since it's been unchanged from 1965-1975 (more or less)

Having done the throttle pressure adjustment many times over the years, there are only a few points that really matter. 

1. does the linkage operate freely without binding?  if not, adjust.
2. at idle, is the lever on the transmission in its fully forward position?  if not, adjust.
3. at WOT, is the lever on the transmission in its fully rearward position?  if not, adjust.

If you can bend, tweak, and adjust your current setup to do those things, you will be good to go. 

[pschlosser]

further research shows there is a difference in the throttle cable bracket between the 318 and 340.

section 14-26-6 of the dealer parts books: show a unique throttle cable bracket for the 340 engine from 1970-1973 (and 360-4 in 1974) #3462741.

[tparker]

@pschlosser thanks for the info. I will look at the part numbers.Trying to find the right info isn't easy. The manual gives some info but isn't real clear about the parts.

I swapped the 2 barrel 318 with a 4 barrel 340. I goto a thermoquad and I think it just worked. Maybe the linkage is further back but I don't know. My 318 had a single rod that connected to throttle bracket and doown to the trans kickdown lever. There seems to be several 2 or 3 piece linkages used on many applications and is what I probably need. The geometery is of just a bit on the bracket and is causing it to bind. I could probably cut it up a bit and reweld it back together but that might not work.

Anyways just thought the Lokar cable would be ultimately the best answer until I can get the proper 3 piece linkage setup.

Thanks
Tom

[tparker]

I looked at the parts catalog, which is hosted in the resource section of this site, and it lists completely different parts for the kick down linkage. The drawings show similar drawings for the 3 rod kick down linkage for 318 and 340 and a single rod drawing for 340 which oddly doesn't have the 318. I assume a different part number would mean a different part, but I thought I'd ask if any of the linkage is shared? It seems that only the top rods should be different as everything else (the trans, mount point for bell house and presumably the upper bracket, etc) would be the same.

I checked out ebay and saw parts listings in the 300+ range. What?!!?#?@? I saw a few incomplete sets for under $100 but I chickened out since I don't know if I can trust it since all the part numbers in the books are different even though the parts LOOK the same/similar.

This is so annoying! LOL.   

[pschlosser]

I looked at the parts catalog, which is hosted in the resource section of this site, and it lists completely different parts for the kick down linkage. The drawings show similar drawings for the 3 rod kick down linkage for 318 and 340 and a single rod drawing for 340 which oddly doesn't have the 318. I assume a different part number would mean a different part, but I thought I'd ask if any of the linkage is shared? It seems that only the top rods should be different as everything else (the trans, mount point for bell house and presumably the upper bracket, etc) would be the same.

I checked out ebay and saw parts listings in the 300+ range. What?!!?#?@? I saw a few incomplete sets for under $100 but I chickened out since I don't know if I can trust it since all the part numbers in the books are different even though the parts LOOK the same/similar.

This is so annoying! LOL. 

I feel your pain.  The topic of "correct throttle pressure linkage for engine X model year Y" has been a challenging one, for me.  In my case, I was seeking 1970 440-4 HP parts, and on numerous occasions, wound up with 383 parts (some of which are different)  Unless you have a correct car to reference, finding definitive answers online can be challenging.

Oftentimes, sellers have it wrong, as to which year/engine a given part applies to.

I went through the dealer parts book, parts lists and illustrations, and factory service manuals and illustrations, and finally worked out most of the details.  I was able to determine which parts were shared between those two (383 vs 440) engines, and which were not.

I will say, the dealer parts book can be difficult to understand, and sometimes it is wrong, but not very often.

From my own experience with 318 e-body cars, every one of them had a (1-section) single rod (14-11-9) setup.  But all the big blocks I've referenced and seen, were 3-section setups.  The middle rod of the 3-section, is also rod 14-11-9.

It is hard to spot, but section 14-11-9 of the 1970-71 Dealer Parts Book contains text in all caps describing where the rod is found in the 1/3-section setup.  In one area, the text CABLE MOUNTING BRACKET TO TRANMISSION BELL CRANK refers to the the only rod in the 1-section (and the middle rod of the 3-section).  Note by the image, even a 318 has a different rod between the 904 and 727 transmissions.  I believe, from the factory, the 340 only came with the 727 auto, and not the 904.

The pound sign (#) next to the 340 part number (3462 738) denotes it is new to 1970.
Several of the other parts in the complete throttle pressure linkage setup are shared between multiple engines, and only a few are shared by all engines.

So far, on this thread, I believe there is evidence the "Correct" 340-4 throttle pressure linkage setup contains:
1. a unique throttle cable bracket (3462 741)
2. a unique throttle pressure rod (3462 738)
Finding those two parts is essential to a "correct" setup.  That said, you may be able to bend, tweak, and modify what you have to make it work.  At the bottom of post #1, I suggest some of the criteria making what you have work until you find something better.

[Katfish]

It's not cheap, but the Bouchillon KD cable works flawless.
As it should, because it's nothing more than a later model factory cable with some brackets.

[pschlosser]

It's not cheap, but the Bouchillon KD cable works flawless.
As it should, because it's nothing more than a later model factory cable with some brackets.

I agree with Katfish , if you want simple, ditch any OEM throttle pressure linkage and go with an aftermarket (albeit generic) concept.  It won't look the same, but if you want simple, go with a cable.

If you want to make the wrong OEM parts work, then you may need to tweak things.

If you want a factory original look, you may have to do some more work.

[Bullitt-]

@ tparker You never mentioned that you were using the Edelbrock throttle lever adapter

     Not using this would create issues



https://www.edelbrock.com/chrysler-throttle-lever-adapter-in-gold-finish-for-1966-and-later-1481.html?srsltid=AfmBOoo0Okkkb8impAwr9S3GbkvtCCYcCib63iwroQjLg2FTsicPgLMm

[tparker]

@Bullitt- yeah I am using that adapter.

@Katfish I am thinking of using the cable, but I am not a fan of the way it looks. Also the price bothers me since it is basically a fancy bike cable with some brackets. The Bouchillon cable seems similar to Lokar but another $100 or so more. Anyone reason to prefer that one?

@pschlosser I don't play the "it's got too be original" thing. Though I prefer period correct. This option existed so I figured how hard could it be. LOL.I think I found the answers in the parts catalog, thanks for mentioning that. I cross referenced the numbers with the 1969 manual I found on line and found the same part numbers. What helps is the 70 parts manual has a "=" character in front of the parts number if it is the first year for the part. Despite none of the 70 or 71 cars sharing the same major linkage parts, none of the parts had the '=' character. I tracked down the 69 manual and found matches for other small blocks. I don't mind a little tweaking or fabing. I think I found some parts on ebay and I am a little more confident they will fit.

Thanks for all the help

[Katfish]

I totally understand the concern with price.
Bouchillon is VERY proud of their stuff.

The Lokar cable IS a bike cable, the Bouchillon kit uses a quality Mopar cable.
I was changing my trans to a 518, which uses the cable system, so it made sense.

It's 1 of those deals, "The quality remains, long after price is forgotten"