Original 440 Distributor?

[7E-Bodies]

In a quick search, I couldn't find a breakdown for determining if this is the stock distributor for my 70 440 RT. Any direction appreciated...

Kevin

[7E-Bodies]

By the way, build dated 11/4/69...

[7E-Bodies]

Do I assume 37th week of 69? If so, it's the second week of September.

[73440]

Looks to be original distributor.
Yes on 37 week of 69.

My Mitchell Manual only has part # for cap, nothing for distributor .???

[DeathProofCuda]

Here is a photo of page 8-118 of the 1970 factory service manual.  Looks to be original    At least it would be if it was a Plymouth.   I'd guess that the Dodge FSM is same.

[7E-Bodies]

It looks like the black plastic box on the side has been cracked and repaired with silicone in years past. Near the Phillips screw. Not a pro on these. Wondering what I'll be up against.

[DeathProofCuda]

What's your plan for this distributor?  Sounds like you intend to use it.  Will you run it as a stock points dizzy or convert it to electronic with something like Pertronix?  Will you actually run that advance retard solenoid or just keep it there for the factory look?

[7E-Bodies]

@DeathProofCuda I intend to run it as a stock configuration as the car is too original to desire changes. Sounds like you're fairly up on these and I'm still under a bit of a learning curve other than changing points and setting timing. My main concern is the damaged black plastic part that seems to have been glued. Any advice appreciated.

[DeathProofCuda]

Unfortunately I' m not really up on these distributors, although I am currently running the original equivalent for a 383 in my Cuda.  I've actually been thinking about changing it out, maybe in the spring, and going with an electronic ignition unit.  I've been trying to improve the tune on my car, and I'm not really satisfied with how jumpy the timing is.  Looking at the distributor specs that I provided above, I'm wondering if it is because the centrifugal advance starts coming in so early on these stock dizzys.  Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems odd to me that the distributor would already be providing up to 4.6 degrees of centrifugal advance at 600 rpm and up to 7.6 degrees of centrifugal advance at 800 rpm. 

The solenoid on your distributor is an emissions control that is designed to retard your timing at idle to improve the emissions.  The timing specs shown above indicate that for a manual trans car the timing should be set at TDC and at 2.5 degrees BTC for an auto car (these settings would be with the solenoid engaged to retard the timing).  I think most would agree that these timing settings are too retarded, and result in the engine running hotter.  That is actually the point, as the hotter engine temps as supposed to improve the emissions.  When you hit the accelerator pedal to open the throttle blades, the solenoid would disengage and advance the timing.

If you want to understand more about the function of your emissions era dizzy, check out this link to this Master Technicians Service Conference bulletin on the 1970 Cleaner Air System

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/270.pdf

[7E-Bodies]

Thank you!  THIS is why I'm here!

[DeathProofCuda]

No problem.  I plan to be hitting you up for tips on metal work sometime in the not-too-distant future.

[7E-Bodies]

Always here, man. Love paying it forward. This group is all about that. Any time.

[E74cuda]

I run the same original distributor but do not plug in the wires to retard the advance. I also install the Pertronix Ignitor kit (1381A I believe). I've had the electronic part of the advance fail a few times with NOS vacuum advances. Your idle will be affected negatively. As far as I know the advances with the black plastic are replacements. I've been using the Pertronix kits for around 30 years without any issues.

[7E-Bodies]

Thank you, I will research that.