Proven 340 Engine Combos

[Cuda Cody]

Please share your proven 340 small block engine builds.  Please include what ignition you used.  And give your opinion on what the engine will mainly be used for... stock drive-ability, street racer or full blown race car.  Dyno numbers or time slips are a bonus if you got them.

I've built this combo several times and they always make about the same HP and TQ.   Here's my proven combination for a stock 340 Six Pack.

• 9.2 to 9.4 to 1 compression (Runs great on pump gas)
• Mr. Six Pack Cam Bob Karakashian 248-477-7776 days / 248-489-4076 eves
• Stock Six Pack Carbs restored by Harms @ScottSmith_Harms  509-922-9115
• 68 Main Jets
• 6.5 Power Valve
• Main Air Bleed Screw on metering block 1/2 to 3/4 turn out
• Outside carbs base have lead plug removed and turned 1 full turn out
• Stock Heads (no porting)
• Rev-N-Nator Ignition by RT Garage 952-356-4969
• Mopar Electronic Distributor from Roseville @MoparDave  586-859-2575
• .030 over on average

346 to 349 HP
377 to 381 TORQUE

This is a stock build and runs / drives like a new car should.  Starts right up easy (see video) and idles like a champ.  These are a few different 340 builds all built with these same specs.  They almost look like the same engine on the line graph chart.

[video]https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/videos/1_01_04_17_12_12_06.mp4[/video]

[Moparman82]

This was a street car, though not very street friendly haha, definitely better suited for the drag strip.
starting from the top and working our way down

1071 Pro Systems Dominator
Indy 360-3 ported intake
W-5 Heads ported by Shady Dell
Ferrera valves 2.08/1.8
Harland sharp 1.5 roller rockers
Isky tool room springs and retainers
Bullet solid roller cam 712 lift@310
419 stroker
3/4 block fill
Forged Crank,
H beam rods
Hughes bottom end girdle
ARP bolts throughout
Studded bottom end and heads
Built for the bottle but never hooked it up, made enough power
electric water pump

car (72 duster) had:

727 built by PRO-Trans
trans brake,
4inch aluminum driveshaft,
5500 stall
forged axles, spool
TTI 1 7/8 headers, full 3 inch exhaust w/ xpipe
trans cooler
full aero motive fuel system, xrp a-n fittings
All autometer gauges, BnM Pro shifter, line loc,
fiberglass:trunklid, bumper, and hood (custom 6 inch 6packhood)
Caltracs, 8 way shocks

Motor was never on the dyno, but what we know for sure was that it weighed about 2800lbs and ran consistent 9.80s with full exahaust and ET streets

[Shane Kelley]

I don't have any data to back mine up as far as dyno sheets. But the combination I use is pretty radical for most people. As far as cam selection goes.
11.0-1 compression
Comp BMT cam
Edlebrock RPM Air Gap intake
Edlebrock RPM heads (stock)
Quick Fuel Q 750 mechanical secondary carb
74 mains and 84 secondary jets
85 secondary outer air bleeds 38 inner air bleeds
4.5 power valve
Carter mechanical fuel pump
Mopar performance billet mechanical advance distributor
Chrome Mopar Performance chrome ignition box
MSD Blaster 2 coil with no ballast resistor
38 degrees total advance
TTI step headers with 2 1/2 inch exhaust

This is a 4 speed combination. Works great with 3.23 to 3.91 gears but can be a little herky jerky at low speeds with 3.23's. I have used the smaller Mother Thumper cams with automatic trans, 650 Vacuum secondary carb and 2500 converter.

Starts with a bump of the key and has no detonation. Throttle response is instant and pulls hard to 6500 rpm. Sounds "KILLER"

[Crash520]

This was a street car, though not very street friendly haha, definitely better suited for the drag strip.
starting from the top and working our way down

1071 Pro Systems Dominator
Indy 360-3 ported intake
W-5 Heads ported by Shady Dell
Ferrera valves 2.08/1.8
Harland sharp 1.5 roller rockers
Isky tool room springs and retainers
Bullet solid roller cam 712 lift@310
419 stroker
3/4 block fill
Forged Crank,
H beam rods
Hughes bottom end girdle
ARP bolts throughout
Studded bottom end and heads
Built for the bottle but never hooked it up, made enough power
electric water pump

car (72 duster) had:

727 built by PRO-Trans
trans brake,
4inch aluminum driveshaft,
5500 stall
forged axles, spool
TTI 1 7/8 headers, full 3 inch exhaust w/ xpipe
trans cooler
full aero motive fuel system, xrp a-n fittings
All autometer gauges, BnM Pro shifter, line loc,
fiberglass:trunklid, bumper, and hood (custom 6 inch 6packhood)
Caltracs, 8 way shocks

Motor was never on the dyno, but what we know for sure was that it weighed about 2800lbs and ran consistent 9.80s with full exahaust and ET streets

Could you PM with with how you controlled keeping it cool on the street please, I'm doing a similar build on a 408, 11.25 CR, W2, solid roller EFI etc
Thanks
Greg

[Chryco Psycho]

I want to see he dyno sheet on the 408 / W2 Greg , should be a beast !!

Seems like a middle of the road cam to me Shane

[Moparman82]

Hey Greg!  I can't remember if the radiator was jegs or speedway, but it was aluminum double pass, with a Mckinzie electric water pump, electric fan on the front. even with 14:1 CR it never got over 180, but gotta remember that it was the central coast of California , very temperate climate, rarely over 85 in the summer

[Crash520]

Thanks Guys, I have a champion 4 core radiator on the shelf for it (only a 22" as that is the core support size in the car), I also have a remote oil filter system so I could plug an oil cooler into that if needed as well, I'll be running an oil temp gauge with sender in the pan. Im considering the 'steam pipe' mod (lines from the back of each cylinder head to the top hose to promote flow etc. I'll also stick with a mechanical pump and thermo fan at this point. I have an AAR hood so that 'may ' also help releasing hot air/promote air flow as I planned to not use the full opening sealed to the intake etc (still in planning stages etc)

Neil, yeah my aim is 600Hp flywheel. the W2's are closed chamber race heads with 2.08 intakes, with mild port work we have them flowing around 316 cfm @600 , I have  TTI 1,7/8-3.5" headers, victor W2 intake, cam is a Crane 254/262@50 with 630 lift at valve solid roller. All forged rotating system, I chose to go the FAST XFI2.0 TBI system over direct port injection, basically only due to fear of leaning a single piston out at high rpm with a faulty injector on DPI. I know DPI is a better solution to minimize fuel beading etc but its what I chose so I'll see. Ive also split the oil return from the filter, one feed goes back into the block per its normal route, the other line enters the block via a bulkhead connection right beside the oil pressure port and runs under the intake to enter the front right gallery thus mimicking the R block oiling gig. I also have the FAST ignition system but have chosen the MSD crank trigger to control it.
Next decision is do i keep the timing chain or go with a gear drive, I have a new chain set up with tensioner at present to go into it.

I plan to run it up on the dyno at some point, fingers crossed I'll reach my HP goal.

Greg

[Chryco Psycho]

Should be no issue , I know those heads make 500 hp in stock cars using only 2 bbl intake ,serious potential in those heads

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: I set my son up with some ported W-2's and an 11-1 360 for his 240Z. I expect it will be pretty fast at 2000lbs. I'll publish a MPH when we run it.

[Chryco Psycho]

W series flat out work , expensive but Wow