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Rear End Removal

Started by money pit, July 08, 2021, 10:34:16 AM

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money pit

I'm removing my 7 1/4 rear end and replacing it with a 8 3/4. After I disconnect everything, what is the best way to remove it. I have the rear valance removed. Should I drop the rear shackles and roll it out? I head of people removing the rear end through the wheel well. Since I'll me doing most of the work by my self, I'm looking for the easiest and safest way to do it. Thanks

Dakota

#1
I work solo as well. 

I ended up pulling off everything I could (drums, axles, 3rd member) to lighten the load, then pulled the axle housing over the leaf spring.  Each leaf spring was dropped separately.   

I've watched it being done on some car shows with a floor jack under the axle housing and dropping the rear end of the leaf springs, then the fronts.   Once lowered by the jack, the whole assembly could be wheeled out.   I don't think I had the ground clearance to do this without risking hitting the car, but this might be a faster way to do it if you had extra hands and eyes helping. 

Mrbill426

Well if you are not messing with the springs then yes I would disconnect the rear shackles and roll it out the back on a jack.  U-bolts are usually expendable unless it has been out recently.



Chryco Psycho

 :iagree:
Drop the shackles cut the U bolts & disconnect the driveshaft & park brake cables & roll it out the rear .

1 Wild R/T

"Drop the shackles cut the U bolts & disconnect the driveshaft & park brake cables & roll it out the rear ."

Location-Pasadena California...

I wouldn't be in such a hurry to cut the U bolts....If the car is a true California car a little lube & you might be surprised... I've saved dozens of U bolts, I like the OE bolts with the flattened area over the top of the tube, I feel they do a good job of spreading the pressure..

Raise the car & support it with jack stands forward of the front spring hanger.. Pull the wheels...

Before you start spray everything down & let it soak for a few hours or days...after I disconnect the lower shock attachments I unbolt the U bolts first so everything is solid & well supported... Disconnect the driveshaft, E brake cables, brake line, cap the line so the fluid doesn't drain out... put the tires back on & throw the floor jack back under the axle... Lift the axle to free up the shackles & remove the shackles... Lower the axle & roll it out on it's own tires....


anlauto

Unfortunately his 7 1/4" U Bolts won't fit the new 8 3/4" going in, either will the lower shock plates.

If you're not changing the springs, I would leave them alone, lift the 7 1/4"  over one spring at a time and pull it out the side. :alan2cents:

8 3/4" is a little heavier, but you can install the housing first, then build the rear end in the car, install the center chunk, axles etc... :dunno:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

7212Mopar

I tried with the spring in place once. It is doable with hydraulic jack and best to have 2 persons. That thing is heavy with the center section and axles installed. Placing some towels over the spring can help reduce paint scratches.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket


money pit

So it looks like I need new U bolts and shock plates. Do you know where I can get the shock plates?  Thanks.

anlauto

Quote from: money pit on July 09, 2021, 05:40:47 PM
So it looks like I need new U bolts and shock plates. Do you know where I can get the shock plates?  Thanks.

Don't believe there are in reproduction, but used should be easy to find...The same ones were used for many years and body styles...

Always some on eBay https://www.ebay.ca/itm/254971914633?fits=Model%3ACuda&hash=item3b5d82a989:g:a-0AAOSwvJ9ftxcW
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Mrbill426

Speaking of U-bolts in this thread... did the factory cut the excess off the ends once they were nutted in place?  My new ones hang down quite a ways and I can't recall if they were that way originally  :thinking:  If they were then about how much end should protrude?


Chryco Psycho

I am sure the factory had the correct length figured out so they were not cut , you likely have to trim the replacements tho .


Mrbill426

@Chryco Psycho thanks, sort of what I thought.  I think I'll cut them back and maybe leave about an inch or two.



Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 11, 2021, 08:53:45 PM
I am sure the factory had the correct length figured out so they were not cut , you likely have to trim the replacements tho .