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Replacement Carb Reccomendation

Started by Aloha Randy, January 09, 2022, 10:53:40 AM

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Aloha Randy

I have a pretty stock 383, automatic, ac, stock stove choke Holley 4160 - 4368. I have had a couple of shops work on the carb but still runs very rich. SO at this point I want to replace it and the car is not a unicorn so I don't need to be exactly stock although I will keep the old carb. Do any of you recommend a carb that would be a good replacement?

JonH

You will have someone chime in I am sure. If running rich is the only issue, what I would do is find carb shop that specializes in Holley carbs and explain what your issues are. It can be easily modified for cleaner crisper idle, and throttle response. You just need to find the right shop...


Just as an example, someplace like this:  http://www.customcarbs.com/

headejm

Holley tech support recommended this carburetor for my 383 RT. It requires a dual feed fuel line and ignition coil relocation. Other than that, I am happy with this carb.


Aloha Randy

Thanks for responding. My issue is that I live in Hawaii and there are no carb shops. When the car was in California I was just dealing with a restoration type shop. Thats why I am at this point going to save the old carb and buy a new one for use today. Again, thanks!

Aloha Randy

Thanks, that one is on my list to talk to Holley about. At this point they seem to be on a one to two month backorder status. Covid related I am sure... :notsure:

71383bee

Holleys are pretty easy to tune and you already have a square bore intake.   The recommended carb is a solid choice. 650 cfm with vacuum secondaries is a good choice.

Another option is to ship your stock carb out to Scott Smith. aka Harms. He does full restorations on carbs.


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73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

198D13

www.harmsauto.com   FYI, there were over a dozen carbs used in 1970 by Chrysler for the 383+4 motor. The carb. you have is worth keeping for your car, and using. They were all for very specific purposes, trans type, A/C, fresh air, etc.


Aloha Randy

My plan is to diagnose and rebuild the original carb but I plan to get a replacement to get the long project thru break in and beyond. Iwas hoping for something real close to what I have but nothing uses the choke stove and a CFM match is not always exact. Plan to talk to Holley tomorrow also. Thanks!

Aloha Randy

It would be cool to find a reference to what each carb was designed for exactly! I know when we grew up with these cars as lids, we just wanted bigger! :looney:

pflug

Seems more a matter of what's wrong with the carb- there could be something damaged in one of the original castings or the person working on it isn't good with Holley carburetors- I've had experience working at a small speed shop in the early 90s working on Holley carbs and think of them is very easy to diagnose, repair, and tune- The reality is I'm getting older and working with carburetors seems to be becoming a "lost art"

Spending 20 bucks or so on a good Holley book and understanding how they work may be a worthwhile investment - repairing an original carb will be the cleanest look and most of the parts from an common 1850 (aftermarket 600) will interchange.  Bolting on a new replacement may or may not fix your problems. 

Edelbrock carbs seem to work good out of the box if looking for something to slap on and not try tuning.  We used to get "reman" units that worked every bit as well as the regular new but carried a decent discount

jimynick

One of the most likely causes of it being rich, is the power vale. It can take as little as a backfire to rupture it and it'll piddle fuel constantly, especially when it's not needed. Pull thefront bowl- 4 screws- an replace it, which literally means unscrewing it from the metering body and screwing a new one in. If you don't, and likely don't, have blue bowl gaskets, find some and replace the old ones to prevent leaks. It's a relatively cheap way to potentially cure your mixture problem and save some dough; but at the end of the day, it's your car and your call. Good luck  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


Chryco Psycho

IMO Proform is a better carb & generally cheaper also , I would use at least a 700 cfm on a 383 .

Aloha Randy

Yes I am pretty sure the power valve is the main issue. I saw on a video of the car being started the first time and there were several good backfires thru the carburetor. I will work the angles and see what will be best here, thanks for you help all! :ohyeah:

DeathProofCuda

Rock Auto carries remanufactured replacement carbs for your original.  If you want to use your stock choke setup, this might be the way to go.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1126159&cc=1231737&pt=5904&jsn=850

71383bee

The FSM lists what carb is for which model. Also if you google the carb number there are many resources on the web that list it.

Previous posts are correct. The Holley equipped 383 is fairly rare. If it's an original carb it's worth being restored.


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73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top