Running Hot!

[dodj]

Fan wouldn't be the issue as the problem escalates at highway speed...
Seems you have a circulation issue, if the thermostat doesn't pan out you may want to remove the water pump to inspect.

Usually the problem is temps increasing in stop and go traffic, not on the highway.
I would flush the system first with prestone flush or whatever.
And I would install a 195* t-stat. So when you get the cooling system back to where it should be, your engine will run at the temp it was designed for.

[73chalngr]

I had a similar problem years ago the head was warped just a little bit at the same spot the block was warped causing a gap big enough to wash a cylinder got stuck in a traffic jam and it overheated wound up pulling the head and saw the problem had the head made flat has not overheated since .

[HP_Cuda]

I wonder if there is any difference between regular Evaporust and Thermocure-Evaporust?

[Burdar]

I've heard of people filling the cooling system with regular evaporust before. They run the engine up to operating temp, turn it off and let it sit over night.

My cooling system looks rusty too but I assume that was from the block sitting for years open to the elements. I was going to try evaporust on it. Maybe that new product would be a better choice?

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk

[Cudajason]

A little update:

I popped a frost plug on the driver side and drained that half of the block...not sure I can get to the other side, motor mount is in the way.  Tried the drain plugs on both sides, yeah right, not moving.

When I pulled the plug I poked around inside and the first pic below is what cam out on my fingers.

just what I figured, full of crud.

I also tested the rad, dumped a bucket of water down the inlet, poured out the bottom as quick as went in. Pretty sure the rad is not plugged, but it sure was dirty...the pic of the white bucket below is the water that came out of the rad...little dirty.

I dumped a bucket of water down the thermostat opening, (I have not put it back in yet).  The pick of the orange bucket is what came out of the frost plug.

I hooked up a hose nozzle to the heater hose and let the hose run until the water coming out was clean...it didn't take too long.

Next step is to put the frost plug back in (might see if I can get the other side out first) put in a bottle of Prestone rad flush and cleaner, filler back up run it for a bit flush it again, and see if it helps any.

I will also check the water pump flow when I will it back up.

Jason

[dodj]

Seems like you found a major contributor to your poor cooling. Once you get all that gunk out, remember to use distilled water when you refill. Tap water has too much 'junk' in it. 
Loosen up your water pump drive belt and see if you can detect any play in the water pump before you refill?

[RUNCHARGER]

I use Premix these days. It saves finding distilled water.

[JS29]

If you have A dehumidifier, the water from it is distilled. or so I am told!   

[dodj]

If you have A dehumidifier, the water from it is distilled. or so I am told!   

Dehumidifier water is good.

[7212Mopar]

Condensation and distillation processes do not yield the same water quality. Depending on the cleanliness of the coil, condensate water will have quite a bit of impurities. If you need near distilled water quality, you can get close with water after going through a Brita water filter.

[Cuda66]

Timing locked down at 34*?
Are you saying you have no mechanical or vacuum advance?
Cam duration with that lift is in the 218-220 range? or even lower?

[Cudajason]

Timing locked down at 34*?
Are you saying you have no mechanical or vacuum advance?
Cam duration with that lift is in the 218-220 range? or even lower?

@Cuda66   Yes that is correct...no mechanical or vacuum advance.  Tried it on that advice of a member here, car has never run better.

Wow, yeah I did not list the duration of the cam.   

You are close, duration at .050 is :
Intake 222
Exhaust 232

Jason

[Cuda66]

To efficiently run a locked out distributor you need a minimum cam duration of 250* or greater leaning more to the greater side to about 260*. My cam at 272* at 50 ran with 28 Initial and 6* mechanical all in at 900 with idle speed of 1200, as soon as it fired it would go to full timing.  Drag Race only application.

My 318 would hit the stripe at 210 in a 1/4 mile pass, 7000 RPM with a 10.90 ET, by the time I got to the ticket window it would be back to 180*, never put a fan or water on it to cool, out of the cockpit and into my lawn chair ready for next BB Chebby.

************All your heating issues are directly related to the timing events.***********

With that cam you need to have about 16* Initial, 18* mechanical and 14-16* vacuum timing when connected to CONSTANT manifold vacuum at Idle. Not knowing anything about the drive line, car body and gears I can't tell you what RPM you will need the mechanical timing to come in at, probably around 3000 to 3400.

I'm amazed that it even turns over with the timing locked with that little cam? Must be a low compression motor?

From Super Chebby Mag (they finally got something right)

"There's a tiny silver can on the side of most distributors that is easily the most misunderstood component of any distributor-based ignition system. Feared by many, and ignored by many more, the vacuum advance can is an important component of your ignition platform that offers both performance and economy. Leaving it unplugged is akin to throwing free engine efficiency straight down the drain.

To fully understand why the vacuum advance can is a necessity in any street-going car, we need to dive into spark timing as a whole and cover some ignition basics."

Read more here:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1601-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-vacuum-advance-and-ignition-timing/

[RUNCHARGER]

Did your overheating start around the time you locked out the timing by chance?

[Cudajason]

Did your overheating start around the time you locked out the timing by chance?

No, it has always run hot, 220 or so on most days.

Jason