Small hole in radiator, now what?

[TelisSE440]

Hello again, just wanted to post the latest updates and some more questions.

I used JB Weld into the hole and surrounding area. Sealed properly until after some days of driving, a new leak occured next to the old one.

Have decided to take the radiator for proper welding, as you guys suggested, but when i removed it, i saw the overall composure of the radiator and something doesn't fit right...

This is off course a cross flow radiator, but the inlet/outlet tanks seem to me too short and not at the same height as the rows/fins, which are going downside, not connecting with the tanks directly.

Have you seen/used those kind of radiators in your applications?

[Brads70]

Ya looking at that I'd say the bottom part of the core ( below the intake) is pretty much useless and not doing much?
I learned the hard way (loosing 3 aluminum rads) that they need to be mounted in rubber so they can move like modern cars do. Bolting them to the rad saddle like stock didn't work out so well for me. Aluminum expands/contracts more than the original brass/copper . I found they pulled the tubes from the tank after awhile. Just my  and I'm no "expert" by any stretch of the imagination.

Pictures of what I did here.... https://forum.e-bodies.org/general-topics/7/show-us-your-fabrications/3316/msg63311#msg63311

[TelisSE440]

Really nice work you did there with the radiator rubber mounts The radiator is too wide for the car, the brackets extending right and left were standing on the frame rails and bolted directly onto them. The battery tray was cut and the wiper reservoir was eliminated in order for it to fit. I'm thinking of putting some more cash in order to get a proper fitting (and cooling) radiator and mount it carefully with rubber mounts onto the car, so as not to have the same problems again. Searching now for a properly priced aluminum radiator...

[anlauto]

The bottom of the rad is useless and is not even being used...with a cross flow, there is not even liquid in it...it would be left empty at all times....what a useless piece of crap

[TelisSE440]

The bottom of the rad is useless and is not even being used...with a cross flow, there is not even liquid in it...it would be left empty at all times....what a useless piece of crap

The bottom of the rad did have water, but as you said Alan, it's was useless, it wasn't recirculating at all, combined with a very small portion of the rad working, i had high enough temps, with the fans working even on the highway. Unfortunately i couldn't put two and two together until this time. Pretty disappointed as this was a BeCool radiator, or better, it had BeCool stickers on it.

[HP2]

Since the cooling system operates under pressure, I wouldn't say  they lower portion is wasted. It doesn't flow water as effeciently for sure, but  it does have flow.

I wonder if that is an original Be Cool design or if it was modified by someone else, hence the leaking tank.

I mounted my aluminum radiator using OEM GM style rubber saddles that sit on a fabbed bracket for the lower, and a side to side cover, like Brad's, on the top.

[anlauto]

If the tanks end 5" from the bottom and the rows go horizontality, how does the bottom get water ?

[IRON MAN]

I would first want to know what caused the hole? If corrosion caused it are you running a sacrificial zinc anode in the radiator? Aluminum parts disintegrate when there is electrolysis from galvanic action. Instead of the electrolysis eating away the aluminum parts of the cooling system it will attack the zinc anode. Summit racing sells a zinc anode that replaces the petcock on the radiator. Good idea if the engine has aluminum heads, waterpump, radiator, etc. Cheap insurance.

[TelisSE440]

Since the cooling system operates under pressure, I wouldn't say  they lower portion is wasted. It doesn't flow water as effeciently for sure, but  it does have flow.

I wonder if that is an original Be Cool design or if it was modified by someone else, hence the leaking tank.

I mounted my aluminum radiator using OEM GM style rubber saddles that sit on a fabbed bracket for the lower, and a side to side cover, like Brad's, on the top.

Agree, it does have restricted flow, the radiator was problematic,tookabout a minute for the fans to go from 200 to 180.

I've seen a BeCool radiator in Google that has the same inlet tank as mine, but the outlet tank is at full height. I tend to believe that it was an unsuccessful/problematic design that didn't catch up.

Will look for rubber saddles for sure, i'm wondering about buying a 3 row Champion radiator

[Brads70]

Since the cooling system operates under pressure, I wouldn't say  they lower portion is wasted. It doesn't flow water as effeciently for sure, but  it does have flow.

I wonder if that is an original Be Cool design or if it was modified by someone else, hence the leaking tank.

I mounted my aluminum radiator using OEM GM style rubber saddles that sit on a fabbed bracket for the lower, and a side to side cover, like Brad's, on the top.

Agree, it does have restricted flow, the radiator was problematic,tookabout a minute for the fans to go from 200 to 180.

I've seen a BeCool radiator in Google that has the same inlet tank as mine, but the outlet tank is at full height. I tend to believe that it was an unsuccessful/problematic design that didn't catch up.

Will look for rubber saddles for sure, i'm wondering about buying a 3 row Champion radiator

fyi the rad in this picture has the in/out reversed from what you have? bb vs sb  If your going to the trouble of making mounts and not using the stock set up/mount then have a look at circle track rads they are usually cheaper and better built than rads spec made for a certain car. Outlets for circle track use either SBC or SBF for the different outlets for BB or SB Mopars. Allstar, C&R Fuidyne  etc...
on ebay search for " nascar radiator" and lots of high dollar used ones as well as new one come up.

[YellowThumper]

Had same issues with mine. One leak then had rad shop fix it. 2 months later another leak next to it. As was noted. The corrosion doesn't happen in only 1 spot.

I have since changed from Prestone to this stuff. Incredible difference in characteristics of coolant. I now have zero corrosion showing. Even after sitting for months. Take the cap off and nothing.

[Brads70]

If you need to build a rad hose ( I did for my set up) I get my parts from here ( as well as fuel line and fittings) they also sell the correct clamps for the hoses cheap enough too.
http://www.frozenboost.com/turbocharger-part/?osCsid=6dd5cc73b412f25e6949c519f71b64d3


Then go to a marine supply and buy an anode for the drain plug to prevent corrosion.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sierra--23-6400-anode-for-westerbeke-11885-pencil-zinc--13482104?recordNum=3

[Chryco Psycho]

There is nothing wrong with a brass rad either as an option , they can be bolted up to the firewall as they take the flexing far better than alum does & corrosion is also less of an issue 

[TelisSE440]

 Due to import and shipping fees, i ordered a reasonably priced 3 row Champion aluminum radiator (if any of you have negative feedback, please advice) and it will be rubber mounted. I also got a zinc anode, so as to combat galvanic corrosion. Guys thanks for all the replies.

[A.Gramz]

I would recommend long life coolant.  - sometimes referred to as red.  Especially with aluminum rad. Conventional requires too much ph level mantance to prevent corrosion.