Well we experienced our first major f up yesterday

[RUNCHARGER]

It's kind of hard to line it up in that situation. What you could do is have it shimmed on a rolling table and slide it into the bellhousing. Change the shims (pieces of wood) to get it to line up just right. Personally I leave them in gear so I can turn the  trans using the output shaft just a bit if it balks going in.

[Chryco Psycho]

Put the release brg on the fork & the fork into the belhousing & bolt it to the engine , then slide the trans in , I usually leave it in 1st gear so with a yolk you can turn the input shaft while sliding it into the clutch disc , I have used long bolts to hold the trans in place & gently snugged the trans up to the belhousing

[Mopsquad]

I've installed many Ford 4 speeds and its the same thing.  Fork and throwout just flopping attached to the bellhouising.  It looks unstable but it works every time.  The shaft mates through the throwout and continues into the clutch diaphragm/fingers and then pilot in the crank.

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

Well we got the bell housing welded up was cheaper than a new or aftermarket one. Now the issue is either the clips on the throwout bearing are bent open too much or or something else is wrong everytime we move the fork its like the bearing is loose and one side will come off it doesn't seem right at all I can't imagine pressing the pedal and having any play and the fork slipping off one side of the bearing. Am I missing something here? When ever we work the fork by hand it seems loose and sloppy and will slip off the bearing.

Local welding shop was able to take care of the crack they welded up both sides of the crack.

[RUNCHARGER]

Do you have a small, steel L bracket about 1.5 inch X 1.5 inch that bolts to the inside of the bellhousing? The clutch fork has a pointed stake that goes into a slot on that L bracket and seats the fork in the correct position, that will push the ends of the fork onto  both those springs on the throwout bearing.

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

Yes the 2 bolt bracket for the fork is in there, even so it seems sloppy as hell should it fit tight like snap in? I must be missing something this design seems like a huge failure point.

[Topcat]

My last Fork, the steel Spring on it was worn. Didn't sit tight.
I replaced it and then everything seemed to be working better.

I recall there are 3 different pivot bolt on to housing options.
Make sure you have the right one.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=103

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

Thanks I'll take a look and see. this car was originally a 340 and supoosedly  the previous owner swapped to a 383 what I dont know is if he swapped bellhousings I'm going to have to ask. I think l'll call Mike Brewer and use the Chrysler numbers in the bellhousing to see what parts I should have. I also fear the T/O bearing clips have been bent out now with so much forced fitting that they are sloppy as well thinking a new one is in order.

[anlauto]

Thanks I'll take a look and see. this car was originally a 340 and supoosedly  the previous owner swapped to a 383 what I dont know is if he swapped bellhousings I'm going to have to ask. I think l'll call Mike Brewer and use the Chrysler numbers in the bellhousing to see what parts I should have. I also fear the T/O bearing clips have been bent out now with so much forced fitting that they are sloppy as well thinking a new one is in order.

A 340 bellhousing won't fit a 383 and vice versa....they have different bolt patterns 

[71vert340]

Aren't small block and big block bellhousing to engine bolt patterns different? I believe they are.
Terry

[Purepony]

Here's what I did and it worked

I had about four old tires, I put the engine on three of those old tires then used the hoist to hold the trans and added an extra ratchet strap to the tail so I could move it around, after about 20 mins it went it smoothly. I did it as a whole piece, trans and bell housing, I had tried and tried for days with the bellhousing attached to the engine abd I couldn't get it in. Bit sure why but wouldn't go. I also added the pilot bearing.

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

According to Brewer's web site we have a big block bell 2892513, What I don't know if it is the correct clutch fork pivot bracket. or if the fork is even correct for a big block application or does that even matter? The bellhousing fits fine now that we have the crack all welded up and the trans fits in fine just this really sloppy fork on the pivot so much so the TO bearing just slips off.

Like I said I think we screwed up the bearing clips trying to fit it so many times they look like they are pried out / opened up more that they are supposed to be so they won't retain the bearing on the fork. If you move the fork with the return spring on it has side to side action and up and down action like its loose and if you pull on it in anyway that makes it go up or down the bearing slips off.

I'll have to take some pictures to today to help better describe the situation. Just seems to me there would be a better type of connection to the fork than just 2 little clips? I guess if everything is right those don't matter as much as the tightness on the pivot? the fork just seems real sloppy on the pivot...


From Brewer's site.

BH513R BIG BLOCK 10.5" BELLHOUSING  1962-1974 A/B/E-BODY, 4.807" RETAINER, NEW   
Product ID: BH513R

NEW reproduction 10.5" big block 356 T-6 heat treated aluminum bellhousing to fit 1962-1974 383/440/426 HEMI A, B & E-Body applications, 4.807" bearing retainer opening, use with 130 tooth flywheel. Bellhousing includes new clutch fork pivot bracket. See BH513R-S for 4.354" bore bell housing. Replaces OE bellhousing cast 2892513.

[RUNCHARGER]

Correct, bib block, e-body bellhousing for sure. If you could do a detail photo on the clips perhaps we can help. I think you're pretty close. It seems to me the smallblack fork would not work at all as it is a different length (going by memory as I don't monkey with small blocks) from the steel pivot to the end where the springs are. I bet you just have weak springs as you suspect.

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

Ok well I got some advice from the previous owner my nieghbor he said part of the problem is that I had the return spring on and it was pulling the fork into an odd postion missaligning the fork to tbe bearing we took the spring off and he showed me how it will sit tight once everything is bolted in place which makes sense. He also advised putting the trans in the car first then hooking everything up once the engine is in that shoukd leave the fork and bearing in place while we get the linkage on leaving the spring until last.

[HP_Cuda]

Yep you want to install that stuff when it's in the car.

Hopefully the bracket you speak of is for a BB not a small block.