340 header vs manifold

[mopartaz]

I don't believe hooker is making the Super comp set any more where the front and rear tubes came apart ? I had those on a Dart and were great once i finally got them to fit.

[YellowThumper]

Simply put the headers will not make your motor produce more power.
They will release what it is already capable of. Restricting it on the tail end is also tougher on an engine.
With costs generally the same. It comes down to manifold convenience or accepting header inconvenience.

[bennydodge]

Lots of good thoughts. I think I'm going with the headers. I am trying to save money where I can, but I can spend where I need to. Cost wise, manifolds are as much as the headers. My current thought for the cheapest setup would be the Doug's Headers and TTI exhaust. The TTI are an extra $100+. Not much.

I'm somewhat worried about headers being a pain, but the engine is out and I can tear things apart to put it in, instead of fighting it with an engine already in place. I kinda trust TTI more so than other headers simply cause they put out information about the install where others just list the product. Not to mention a lot of people use them. I don't want to buy a new starter, and I believe those tiny buggers are expensive. The next question is shorties versus the full headers. If I go Shorties, then TTI will be the choice since I didn't see Doug's option.

As for pain in the ass, is this just because they are a pain to put in, meaning there isn't a lot room? Or does this mean fabrication? I don't want to reweld the exhaust or reroute pipes. As I said, I have the motor out so I can shift it around just fine to work with minimal space. I don't have any tranny lines, so I can reroute as necessary.

And for those that asked, I'm not building a race car. I figure I'll be in around the 400HP range, maybe 450. I want a good solid street car that can hold it's own with the newer challengers. So I don't have to squeeze every ounce of power out of it.

Yes, they were a pain to install but better than other headers. Transmission cooler lines, speedo gear and speedometer cable are all much harder to access with long tube headers installed. Most of the oil pan bolts are covered by the header tubes. Oil changes require more planning as well (drain the hot oil and let the engine sit for an hour or so, then remove the oil filter-NO mess this way). Another problem centers around the type of gaskets TTI sells now. 20 years ago TTI sold these ultra-rigid super-thick mounting gaskets, high quality stuff, now they use thinner ones which don't work as well with headers that have the slip tube for the #7 cylinder. When I bought new gaskets I had to triple up on the gaskets so the slip tube doesn't rattle against the torsion bar. This may not be problem with their latest header designs, though. Also, ground clearance is always a problem with long-tubes but the TTI's are better than most in this area. 

As far as hanging with new Challengers, you're gonna' need more than 400hp unless you gear it steep and run drag radials. My buddy's 2018 392 Challenger T/A 8 speed auto is only a couple tenths slower than my car and I know I'm pushing much more than 450 horse. And when It comes to a Hellcat forget about it..

My opinion-if you stay between 400 and 450 horse-run manifolds, but get a camshaft designed to run stock manifolds.

[nsmall]

I dont think my TTI headers are a pain on my 340.  I dont have to re-torque the bolts, they always seem tight. 

I am basically certain you will need a mini starter and mine cost about $140.  If you want to keep up with new challengers I think headers are one of the right choices in your build IMHO. 

[bennydodge]

I dont think my TTI headers are a pain on my 340.  I dont have to re-torque the bolts, they always seem tight. 

I am basically certain you will need a mini starter and mine cost about $140.  If you want to keep up with new challengers I think headers are one of the right choices in your build IMHO.

I'm running the factory original starter on mine. True about the bolts, mine have come loose once in 19 years-thick flanges.

[HP2]

You can buy a rebuilt mini  starter for any '90s era Dodge truck from any chain store for $50 or so.

[tparker]

@HP2 That is awesome. I didn't even think of that.

[Cudakiller70]

Some pics
https://forum.e-bodies.org/exhaust/17/tti-shortys-pictures/2905/msg43669#msg43669

[MOPAR MITCH]

My 2=cents.... I run the Hooker ceramic coated 5115... since 1985.. they still look really good (although they've hit ground a few time underside).  They also clear all linkage; no problems with mini-starter (the only starter to use for best reliability, IMO, as well as being lighter in weight); clears all steering linkage; clears the T/A fast ratio pitman arm; clears the longer C-Body idler arm with just a small ding of clearance needed; no problems with trans fluid lines/727.

Only issue I have with the Hooker 5115s are that I've observed the ports are not properly matching the shape of the exhaust gaskets (all the same, I use the Fel-Pro header gaskets), especially the outer ports in shape... and as a result, a small exhaust leakage occurs at some of the areas.  It honestly took me 30 some years recently to find and discover this problem ... simply matching the gaskets to the header flange area.. you'll see the raised welded ridges are the problem.. some open gap as much as 1/16"-3/32" inch!  So... as I've just built a new engine, and decided to re-use these same headers for a temporary while, I applied "Extreme Hi-Temp JB Weld" as a putty around the header flange ports, filed them down flat... and will see how that works as now the gaskets will seal completely flat with the flanges... shouldn't have an more slight exhaust port leakage at those certain areas.  The center ports were the worst for sealing.... IMO, poor quality control/design by Hooker.

I'm considering TTis after the engine gets broken-in... maybe in a year or so, pending the longevity of the JB Weld/sealing.   As I've read, with an automatic trans, the TTi's require flipping the trans shift linkage upside-down... I think to clear the rear collector flange.   I do have concern if the TTis will, positively, clear the longer "fast-ratio" steering arms (pitman and c-body idler)... have gotten mixed answers, even from TTi.. they simply "...don't know".

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: Same problem with Hooker 5210's for a 426 Hemi. Their jig has been junk for decades and they will not repair it, the ports are out as much as 3/8". I've spent hours welding up the mess and grinding/filing the flanges back flat. I will never buy a Hooker product ever. For years they were the only header available for a Hemi, but not anymore.