Exhaust for maximum ground clearance

[Scooter]

Quick update, just ordered a new 2.5 inch exhaust setup from TTI. Ceramic coated and polished Shorty headers. Header adapters, drivers side with O2 bung installed. X-pipe. Pair of Dynomax mufflers, existing mufflers have offset intake and outlet. These should have the correct offset intake and center outlet allowing me to use the stock hangers. They were too inexpensive when bought with the kit to pass on. I have a set on my big block Fairlane and they are almost too quiet. Good chance I'll get something with a bit more aggressive note later like the Pypes mufflers currently installed. Also ordered a pair of muffler eliminator pipes. If the new setup does not get me enough ground clearance I'll put a new set of mufflers in the stock location up next to the fuel tank. Only thing I did not order from TTI are the exhaust tips. Hoping to be able to use my existing set. Boxes should start showing up on my doorstep in a few weeks. Hoping the Hooker long tubes in the car do not fight me too much coming out. I'd like to be able to donate them and the rest of the stainless exhaust... but not so much I won't chop them into pieces if they fight me. Will post up some photos when it arrives and install.

[Burdar]

I too bought the Dynomax mufflers with my TTi exhaust system.  I don't really like the way they sound on Youtube clips I've listened too but they were pretty cheap so I thought I'd at least try them.  I've got a pair of Flowmaster 40s and a pair of Magnaflows to try as well.  The Flowmasters were on another project of mine that I abandoned and the Magnaflows are a used set I picked up on Facebook.(they are only supposed to have a few hundred miles on them)   The Dynomaxes will be tested first, followed by the Magnaflows and finally the Flowmasters.  I'm 90% sure I want the Flowmasters so those will be tested last.  I'm planning on using those "band style" clamps to make muffler changes easy.  If you are unsure of the Dynomaxes, I'd recommend the band clamps so you can get the system apart easily in the future.

[7212Mopar]

Check out CA loud exhaust law amendment last year I think. Ticket is now a $1k fine that needs to be paid first and then need correction. So might be best to get a system that is more sensitive to throttle positions.

I have the TTI long tube and their 2.5" X pipe and It came with Dynomax turbo mufflers. They are on the loud side during warm up. After that it mellows down but gets loud when open up. I never tested the sound level and got cops followed me for over a mile a few times but did not get pull over.

Mangnaflow straight flow design will perform better than the old turbo muffler design. I have it on my 2012 but it has resonators just like the factory. Quiet until open up.

Also shorty might sound different than long tubes. Packed mufflers get louder after use on the car for awhile.

[Scooter]

The Pypes Street Pro mufflers on the car right now sound pretty lopey at startup, idle and on acceleration. But have surprisingly little drone at highway speeds. Have not had any issues with local coppers following me about town. Current setup is far less noisy than a Harley. I did request T-Bolt style clamps.. solid recommendation. 

[Scooter]

TTI fairy left a package on my porch today!

[pdf]https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1138&d=1588795996[/pdf]

&




Just waiting for the new Poly lock motor mounts and Hotchkis Sport Leaf Spring Kit to arrive and old yellow is going up on the jack-stands. If I get the ground clearance I need I'm pretty much set. Depending on the exhaust note of the Dynomax Turbo mufflers that I purchased with the TTI kit( I have a set on my BB Ford and they are pretty mild), I might get a slightly more aggressive muffler. If the mufflers are still scraping, I'll install the muffler eliminators and get a set of straight through mufflers to be installed just prior to the tailpipes in the factory position. The new leafs should get me about an inch more ground clearance so I'm thinking I should be good.

[Scooter]

Got up under for some motor mount action today... passenger side was toast.



Compared to new unit:


Bad news was the "New" poly locks from PST did not fit. The saddle width was not wide enough and they would not settle on the frame mount. Ended up putting a stock rubber mount on the passenger side. Might keep this configuration as the driver side is still a locker and the vibration in the passenger compartment is much reduced.

Hope the new leaf springs show this week. If they get here it's headers, exhaust and leafs next weekend.

[7212Mopar]

Compare the bolt hole locations with the stock mount if they are the same. If the mount can sit on the k frame, see if the bolt holes align. I had problem with the Macinni Magum mounts before. The holes were off.

[Scooter]

Compare the bolt hole locations with the stock mount if they are the same. If the mount can sit on the k frame, see if the bolt holes align. I had problem with the Macinni Magum mounts before. The holes were off.

The issue is the mount would not sit on the K-frame. The distance from the alignment pin at the center to the bend at the k-mount was too short. Neither of the mounts would sit down. I wrestled with the passenger side ofr a few hours before disconnecting it from the block side mount and trying the obvious. My bad there but geesus.. how do these things make it off the assembly line?   

[7212Mopar]

For the passenger side, you can just use any stock replacement mount because it sees only compression from the engine torque. The driver side is the one that will fails. Some members had success with the Mancini racing magnum mounts. It did not work for me. Alternately, you should be able to use standard rubber replacement mount and then add the Schumacher torque strap kit. Others said they just use a chain but that is kind of too raw for me. I ended up using Mity mount. It had some fitment issue too that needed to add some metal plate shims. It has been on for a year and no issue so far. It is an interlocking design similar to the Schumacher mounts.

If I have to do it all over again. I will just get a good quality factory replacement rubber mounts (Call Dave at Roseville). Then I will add the Schumacher torque strap kit and call it a day. It is a lot cheaper than Schumacher mounts that their website kept saying out of stock.

https://www.manciniracing.com/search-results.html?catalog=chucker54&query=engine+mounts&Submit=Search

http://mitymounts.com/

http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/70.74eBody.html

[Scooter]

^^ Plan for now is to leave it as she sits with the rubber passenger mount. The driver side poly lock looks good and I'll see if I can get a refund for the PST defects. Here is a few dimensional photos of what I wrestled against yesterday.

New mount:


vs.

Old mount:




I pinned the mounts on my Fairlane similar to the mitymounts, works pretty well to minimize the amount of vibration transferred. Schumacher's site has been out of stock of most items I've been shopping for nearly every time I've visited.

[usraptor]

I have the Dynomax Super Turbos on my TTI 3" X pipe exhaust with 1-7/8" TTI headers.  I love the sound.  Very throaty but not too loud and no drone on the highway.  When I want loud, I just open up my electric cut-outs.

[Scooter]

Alrighty.. circling back now that the hood hinges have been replaced and the new leaf springs are on. I'm going to try to install the new TTI shorty's and exhaust this weekend. Quick question on the TTI install. The stock 360 heads have studs holding the current longtube headers at the font most and rear on both sides. Any real need to remove these studs and replace with the bolts provided by TTI?

[7212Mopar]

 Keep the studs if in good shape with stock iron heads. It gets into the water jacket. Not a bad idea to replace with new studs. They get corroded.

[MOPAR MITCH]

Hello Scooter... here's some recent experience I've had.. similar to your issues./

I've used Hooker 5115s headers... yes, a bit low, but my suspension is very stiff.. so to avoid diving (AX HSAX, HPDE)... and driven on the local roadways as well.   They've hit/bottomed at some bad roads... but not that bad.... had them on my car since 1985.  I've been using Flowmasters since that same time, dumped in front of my differential.

Fast forward to now.. 2020.. new SB engine, engine bay all redone.. very nice!  But, I'm going to reuse my old Hookers (discovering the need to work over the raised beaded sealing areas of the long gasket/head flange for better sealing.... Hooker should fix this on their design.

i intend to get a new set of TTis 'cause of the visual better ground clearance... every fraction of an inch matters!... perhaps in another 1-2 years from now.... along with new Flowmasters that i already have.

Those Schumacher motor mounts are a problem... I wanted something stiffer without going solid... because I'm using a Milodon Touring road race oil pan... and that was a hassle to fit inside the K-frame... requiring some minor cutting at the steering box area and the passenger motor mount area... and with unbelievable flex of rubber motor mounts... I didn't want the engine shifting in any way that would allow the new Milodon oil pan to hit the k-frame.   I discovered the fit was not correct of the Shcumacher mounts due to the dowel pin hitting the k-framed inner tube where the long bolt passes through... required filing that dowel down nearly 50% from its original size/shape.... done to my satisfaction.

NOTE:  I'm not sure, but Schumacher may be going out-of-business... they are not supplying Mancini or anyone else for many many past months.. almost 6-9 or more months.. as I was told by Mancini.   I wanted to purchase the Schumacher Torque strap.. been waiting for about 9+ months... Manicini told me they will start making their own brand... when????   so, I went back to my old reliable taped chain that I've used for about 30+ years.

I'd recommend some bigger torsion bars and stiffer shocks to prevent diving/hitting the ground, but maybe your new TTis will be much better....

Send/post pics ... I'm interested in the ground clearance.

MoPower to ya!

[Burdar]

If the studs at each end of the heads are still good and not leaking, leave them be.  The only reason to remove them and install bolts is if you can't physically install the headers with them in place.