Air lines in garage options?

[torredcuda]

What should I use for hard lines in garage, steel,  copper, plastic,???

[Floyd]

I went with copper.  Black iron pipe is a strong and less expensive option.  PVC is pretty controversial.  There are hundreds of posts on www.garagejournal.com about airline types and choices.  PVC always leads to an internet fight.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43852&highlight=Airlines&showall=1

[Bullitt-]

doubt that you could beat this https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Compressed%20Air%20Piping%20%2B%20Accessories%20%3E%20Air%20Compressor%20Piping%20Kits&utm_campaign=RapidAir&utm_content=20923&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlI_R2aDA3wIVTF8NCh0l2AOKEAQYAyABEgLwwfD_BwE

I did mine in 1/2" PEX & plumbing fittings/shutoffs 10+ yrs ago and spent some less than $100 then when all said & done

[Shane Kelley]

I use 3/4 PVC schedule 40.  Running around 150 psi air pressure and have been using it for 16 years without issue. Easiest, fastest way to do air lines. Make sure to clean and use the recommended primer and glue.

[JS29]

PVC will leak at the joints eventually, It gets brittle as well. when it gets bumped into it explodes, lots of shrapnel. Iron can and will rust, Evin galvanized.  Copper is expensive, but worth it. I used M tubing, and never looked back. Main line 1", elbows up and over then down in 3/4" T to filter, straight down to a drain valve. they have the best results when it is continued around, not dead ended.   

[cordodge]

I would love to put my compressor in my shed out back of the garage and hard pipe the lines in but not sure how it would work in the cold season. I've seen a couple videos on exploding 60 gallon compressor tanks in garages and after that I never leave mine sitting with 120lbs in it. Not only could it kill you but even if your not there it can destroy your vehicles 

[captcolour]

Figured I was only going to do this once, so went with copper.  1" on the main line and 3/4" on branches.  The 100' reel by the garage door is the best.  Use that outside all the time to blow off the tractor after mowing, fill tires on the RV and trailers, etc. 

[JS29]

I would love to put my compressor in my shed out back of the garage and hard pipe the lines in but not sure how it would work in the cold season. I've seen a couple videos on exploding 60 gallon compressor tanks in garages and after that I never leave mine sitting with 120lbs in it. Not only could it kill you but even if your not there it can destroy your vehicles 

The cold temperature can kill the motor, oil to thick. not to mention water in the tank and lines freezing   had a friend burn up motor's on his when he forgot to shut his compressor off and the wood stove went out. and he put a light on it to remind him to turn it off.   

[Brads70]

From what I've read that PVC stuff is scary, cheaper but scary. I'd use copper , do it once , do it right and be done with it. Especially if you'll be doing any welding, grinding etc.... and I know you will be.
IMO PVC air lines is like using a blow up air mattress instead of a real mattress, ya it functions and is cheaper.... for awhile?

[70 Challenger Lover]

I ran copper in mine. They have two grades and the thinner wall grade is less expensive but still handles pressure well. I had pvc before and it worked but the air coming out of a compressor is hot so pvc does nothing to cool it. Copper and iron do. I actually made a serpentine of copper tubing on one wall with drop down drains here and there. I wanted a longer run to cool the air more and reduce moisture. At the end of the run, I added my filters, drier, pressure regulator and water separator. The result is clean dry cool air that works great in my bead blaster and portable sand blaster. I also use it for painting and haven't ever had any issues.

By the way, they have 3/8 couplings in addition to 1/4. The 3/8 is practically a must for big air using items like a sandblaster. Since I made everything myself, I used both couplings so I have choices. It meant having a regular air hose with 1/4 fittings for normal tools and a bigger heavier air hose with 3/8 fittings that I don't use as often. But when you need it, it's nice!

Final thought, as you build your own system, keep all joints and lines at 1/2" I.D.. You don't want some elbow somewhere bottle necking the supply down to 1/4 or 3/8. Think of this as a fuel line. Bigger is better right up the point where it connects to the device you are using. I had to be careful which hardware store fittings I used. On the inside of some, they can get very restrictive. My old system worked but when I replaced it all and put thought into it, it was like replacing a 300 hp motor with a 500 hp motor. My once giant air compressor has become the limiting factor.

[captcolour]

Got all my copper fittings and ball valves on-line at supplyhouse.com.  Less expensive than local big boxes and had the harder to find couplings and reducers.

[YellowThumper]

Here's a tip regardless of line type you choose.
All of your drops should point up and then U back down. This way all resident water will reside on bottom of pipe and you pull air from its top side. This also keeps the first drops from becoming a drain when not being used.

And I have heard and seen the destruction of failed PVC. It dries and cracks from the inside out.

[captcolour]

Here's a tip regardless of line type you choose.
All of your drops should point up and then U back down. This way all resident water will reside on bottom of pipe and you pull air from its top side. This also keeps the first drops from becoming a drain when not being used.

And I have heard and seen the destruction of failed PVC. It dries and cracks from the inside out.

See my 2nd sideways pic above.

[73440]

https://app.box.com/s/ka7651gynombb3a1zorgmr7xyn3s3zge

This link will probably have more info than you need , but it has a lot of info.

[redgum78]

I used HDPE polyethylene pipe 25mm (OD). Class 12 is rated for 180psi, and class 20 is rated to 285psi. As the pressure rating goes up the internal ID gets less but the OD remains at 25mm.

The stuff is UV stable and can handle most chemicals. It is also used for high pressure reticulated gas (a high pressure version of the same product) so it is good stuff.

The best thing about it is its very easy to install.

I worked in a shop that used PVC running the length of the service pit. I was in the pit with the PVC header at my face level when another Mechanic's spanner slipped and hit the PVC. The PVC header ruptured and sprayed PVC fragments and high pressure air in both our faces. We got cut up a bit but somehow both managed to not get any in out eyes. Ears were ringing for a couple of days after!