Concrete floor treatment

[blown motor]

I'm sure some of you guys must have experience with this. I'm wondering what is the best treatment for a new concrete floor in the shop. Sealer? Paint? Some kind of epoxy?

[JS29]

The first person that came to mind is @cuda hunter  he is a contractor! And i have seen pictures of his work. 

[73440]

Here is some info on garage floor sealers.
https://allgaragefloors.com/sealers-large-shop-garage-floors/

I would lean more towards a densifier product for a garage.
Try to find out if they used a curing compound on the concrete, just to be sure any other product that is applied is compatible .

[73440]

We recently used Euco Diamond Hard for an oil change business concrete slab. Euco 700 was used for filling the sawn joints.

[73440]

Euco product info

There are other brands that are good also, available products may differ in your area.
A construction supply store will probably be your best place to get what you need.

[DAYLEY/CHALLENGER]

The way to finish after you get tired of rolling around on the floor!

[captcolour]

I used the former DuPont two-part industrial epoxy.  Added the color sparkles from Home Depot.  Have to wait at least 30 days after the concrete is poured to allow it to fully dry.  No need to use acid to etch it.  I just mopped it the day before I applied the epoxy.

[Swamp Donkey]

I love my shop floor.  It was a product called spartacoat.  But that company has been bought out by another company.  Still offers the same product. Reply if you want more information.

[cuda hunter]

Great looking floor SwampDonkey.

I've used mostly the Sherwin Williams products for many years.  Armorseal is the main product I have used many many times. 
I always like when there is a picture or design to put into the floor.  Armorseal can be tinted to many colors.   I like to put symbols in and then use another coat of clear epoxy over the top of the colored floor.  Done that a time or two.  But usually we just do the design first and then paint up to it and don't put a clear coat over the whole floor. 
   I'm sure all the products mentioned are equally as good.   I use Sherwin Williams because they are readily accessible in almost any city in America and they can order most anything within a few days.  They will usually have someone who understands the product and can fill you in on everything on the tech sheet.  Most Williams managers have been to lots of paint training. 
  Sherwin Williams also has some commercial products that you can use.  They just require more prep, more tools and more time.  cost more money as well.  I've used the commercial products for large water holding tanks and septic tanks.  They work awesome!  But not usually worth the extra time, research and cost when doing a garage floor. 

  Fill the expansion joints with urethane filler before you put the epoxy down. 
My suggestion, is to etch the crete.  I know, Muriatic acid. it sucks.  But really, get a standard gas respirator for both the etching and the installation of the epoxy paint. 
  Spray the floor down real good. Even though it's new concrete.  Spray it and sweep it.  Let it dry.  Then etch it.  Spread the acid across the floor.  Have your respirator on.  Then just spray the acid out the door.  The acid will ensure that years down the line the paint will be properly bound to the concrete.  The acid actually opens up the pours of the concrete and allows for adhesion. 
  Once etched,  you will roll the paint on the floor.  Make sure you use the high dollar rollers.  You don't want any bubbles working into the paint. Try not to over roll.  a few passes and it should self level.  Use your respirator.  The stuff doesn't smell too bad and will not be noticeable after a few minutes of using but it is not healthy to inhale these fumes.  Work from the back corner out.  Make sure it's not a windy day.  Try not do do it on the hottest day of the year.    Make sure to have clothes you do not care about.  Shoes as well.  Use gloves as the product does enter the blood stream when in contact and it won't come off your hands for a while. 
  Make sure you second coat in the specific time frame the tech sheet shows. 

If that's all too much, you can go to home depot and buy their "kits" of gray and tan and just install them on the floor.  Will last a year or so before peeling.  Some of it will last forever but some of it won't. 

  I do not like to put the specs into the paint.  personal preference.  It makes the floor not quite flat and even and will cause some chatter when rolling engine hoist across it. 

  Don't put a car on the paint until tech sheet says it's time.  I recall 30 days.  But your heat in your area might accelerate the cure a little bit. 

Was that too much talking? 

[blown motor]

Thanks @cuda hunter . It's more involved than I thought it would be. I don't own the building and the owners don't seem willing to seal the floor. I've heard that it would keep the dust down but since I don't own it I don't want to spend a whole lot of money. I don't do car tear downs or rebuild engines so I won't spend a lot time there. It's mostly just car storage and a bit of tinkering. Just looking for something cheap and easy that will help with dust control. Maybe there is no such thing.

[cuda hunter]

For that purpose I would use the kits that you can buy from Home Depot or any random hardware store.
If the crete is new I would go ahead and muriatic acid etch it.  Muriatic acid is very cheap.  Buy a couple gallons. 
spray it off as water is cheap.
The kits as I recall are about  75 each.  That's two gallons and as I recall two gallons will cover about two hundred sq.ft.
Don't put the flakes in.  Unless you really want to.  They just hold dirt and make the floor less smooth.

So with a mask, some rollers and some acid your at about 120.00 for 200 sq.ft.  Not too shabby really.  The stuff will last a while and if it's just to help with the dust and keep the door from holding dirt it will work just fine. 
If your doing major work on the floor all the time the kits aren't what you want.  But it sounds like the kit is exactly what your after.  Not a bad price.  But still use a mask and gloves.  Not good stuff to have in your nervous system. 

[Daveh]

With all of the great suggestions on products my biggest concern would be the durability with putting jack stands on the floor and hurting the coating.  Does anyone have any experience along those lines? 

[cuda hunter]

The last big one I did was for a guy who has lifts, heavy duty compressor, Dually truck and other big work trucks.  Has a challenger.  He's a retired professional welder.  So he is really tough on everything.

His floors are holding up just fine with the armorseal from sherwin williams.  That was one coat.  I think we probably should have done a clear coat over the color coat as I'm very particular and there are a few scratch's from heavy equipment.  But for the most part no real damage to speak of. 

[blown motor]

For that purpose I would use the kits that you can buy from Home Depot or any random hardware store.
If the crete is new I would go ahead and muriatic acid etch it.  Muriatic acid is very cheap.  Buy a couple gallons. 
spray it off as water is cheap.
The kits as I recall are about  75 each.  That's two gallons and as I recall two gallons will cover about two hundred sq.ft.
Don't put the flakes in.  Unless you really want to.  They just hold dirt and make the floor less smooth.

So with a mask, some rollers and some acid your at about 120.00 for 200 sq.ft.  Not too shabby really.  The stuff will last a while and if it's just to help with the dust and keep the door from holding dirt it will work just fine. 
If your doing major work on the floor all the time the kits aren't what you want.  But it sounds like the kit is exactly what your after.  Not a bad price.  But still use a mask and gloves.  Not good stuff to have in your nervous system. 

Thanks for your input cuda hunter. It's much appreciated.

[Daveh]

Thanks Cuda Hunter that's what I was looking for.  Wouldn't really care so much if I wasn't working on the cars but I see some older garages that were just painted and are peeling all over the place.  But this was on older floor systems when they first came out.