E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum

Thought I would make a post showing some of the issues when trying to find color match.
While this will deal with FM3 it would apply to any color.

We are working on a ARR in this color. I have a very limited area of original paint to work with on this one.

In the picture you will see three spray out cards using three separate paint systems DBU DBC AND MBC. All of these are PPG product lines.

Using the area under the vin decal to match and a portion of the door and hood hinge . In this case it looks like DBU is the best match.

Many things effect color match, including gun setup, temp, humidity, air flow in spraying area along with paint mixing ratio.

Alos most paint companys have reformulated their paint lines many times in the last 40 plus years so it is a good idea to do spray outs to confirm.

Hope this will help anyone getting close to a color choice.
Dave

I'm running into that with Sublime .... going to get my fenders painted ...again to try and get a better match... :pullinghair:

Very difficult to get a color match on any paint with out doing a blend into the next panel. Just so many factors effecting color.
Some things that may help. Original can of paint, use the same gun as used in the first painting.
Blending the next may be the best bet.
Dave

It's super hard and takes a lot of time to do good paint matching.  Looks like you're doing everything you can to get it right.  The number of coats and color of sealer can change things too.  Good luck!  Going to be an AWESOME car when you get done.  Can't wait to see more photos.   :takepicture:    :twothumbsup:

Teaser picture, getting close .Should have doors and other boltables in paint today.
Dave

Exciting!!!!!   Seeing paint go down is so  :veryexcited: :veryexcited: :veryexcited: :veryexcited: :veryexcited: :veryexcited:

I bought my FM3 car when it was 8 years old and it was already faded badly. Even back then it was hard to find paint for it. I remember Sherwin WIlliams made the best match back then but it faded in a hurry as well. If it's a bit off it doesn't look good either.

Sheldon

I know what you mean, this a tough color anyway you look at it.
Dave

Here is some of the parts in color.
Dave

Is restoring cars something you do for a living ? or is this just a hobby ? Looks great !

Looking good!!!!    :clapping:  Nice booth!!  Are you happy with the color?  Make sure to use the same amount of coats on all the panels.   :alan2cents:

Keep sharing photos as you more forward with that awesome car.   :popcorn: 

Quote from: Cuda Cody on February 03, 2017, 03:29:17 PM
Looking good!!!!    :clapping:  Nice booth!!  Are you happy with the color?  Make sure to use the same amount of coats on all the panels.   :alan2cents:

Keep sharing photos as you more forward with that awesome car.   :popcorn:

She's a old booth but works well. Paint coats wont be a problem , I log a color spray out with all the info recorded. Spray gun, pressure , temp , reducer ect.
Dave

Quote from: anlauto on February 03, 2017, 03:14:20 PM
Is restoring cars something you do for a living ? or is this just a hobby ? Looks great !

I run a small four person body shop. We restore cars among other things.
Dave

Sprayed out the rest of the body today.
Also realized the this is the last of the high impact colors that I have never done a over all with.
Guess I can retire. lol :)
Dave

Looking good!!!!   :inlove:

Nice! It's a long road to get to that point.

Very nice !! Love the color.... :bigthumb:

I was a little surprised,, everyone coming into the shop loves the color. Except my wife and the other two people who work with her. :dunno:
Dave

Quote from: farmboy70 on February 13, 2017, 09:18:42 PM
I was a little surprised,, everyone coming into the shop loves the color. Except my wife and the other two people who work with her. :dunno:
Dave

Maybe she'll come around on the color once she sees the car assembled.  Looking great!  :bigthumb:

When I had my FM3 car most people gagged when you described it. About 2/3 liked it when they saw it and yes they look much better assembled.

Here's a quick shot outside. Need to get the black on it soon.
Dave

New outside shot.
DAve

Looks great...When you do the final coat(s) on the organisol hood, make sure it's lying in place on the car to insure a proper match to the fenders  :alan2cents:

Absolutely :twothumbsup:.

I told that a dozen times to the shop that paints my cars on the last AAR I restored...and of course they didn't do it and it didn't match...always bugged me... :pullinghair:

Organisol is a pain to work with especially if it is lacquer.
The DCC formula is easier to spray.
I've had a lot of experience with it. Never look forward to it but have it down now.
Dave

I think that color looks amazing!   :ohyeah:

@farmboy70 (http://forum.e-bodies.org/index.php?action=profile;u=108)  I would love to hear some tips for spraying the DCC organosol?  I made a little video for spraying organosol, but I'm always looking for ways to make it better.  The way I spray it makes it not come out super dark and deep black like a gloss black.  Not sure if that's because PPG has that silver metal flake in there or if it's my dust circles that are doing it.  After about 2 weeks of testing and several thousands in material, I got it the best I could.   But if you have a better way to spray it I would love to try it out!   :yes:

Quote from: farmboy70 on February 14, 2017, 02:07:23 PM
Organisol is a pain to work with especially if it is lacquer.
The DCC formula is easier to spray.
I've had a lot of experience with it. Never look forward to it but have it down now.
Dave

Hi Cody
What reducers and catalyst are you using.
If you are not happy with the depth of the color I would guess it is the flake laying on top causing it.

Also guessing you are using the circle method to avoid tiger striping and to gain texture?

I worked with PPG color library to come up with adding DX1999 to the unreduced 9355 organisol
We came up with 3 oz per quart of unreduced paint.

Its late out here and I'll get back to you tomorrow on more details on how I do it.
Here is a picture of a factory appied stripe on a 15k mile GTX , for  texture and color.
Dave

Not a great picture, ill get a better one tomorrow.
Dave

@farmboy70 (http://forum.e-bodies.org/index.php?action=profile;u=108)  yes, you are 100% right.  I fought the tiger stripping and blotching for a long time.  When I use the dust circles from about 4' away it lays down perfectly and looks amazing, but it's not as dark as I want.  It's funny you and I both came up with using the DX 1999.  I'm at about 2% of DX1999, but I think the Dust Circles from so far back adds a little bit more textured so I don't need as much DX1999.  And lately I've been using it without any DX685 too.  Here's the mix I use:

PPG DCC 9355 = 230.1 grams (about 8 oz)
*DT885 = 146.1 grams (about 6 oz)
DCX61 = 73.2 grams (about 2 oz)
DX685 = 12.4 grams (about 1/4 oz)
DX1999 = 6.1 grams (about 1/8 oz)

* I use one step hotter on the reducer.  So if it's 70 degrees out, instead of using 870 I use 885.  Seems to slow it down and work better with those dust circles.

How do you get it not to tiger stripe or blotch with a normal spray pattern?  @anlauto (http://forum.e-bodies.org/index.php?action=profile;u=19)  is so right about painting the hood and fenders on the car.  It's a lot more work, but the only way to get it to come out right.  And it sucks for a short guy like me with my T-Rex arms trying to reach over an AAR and get it all covered evenly.  I have to stand on a table to reach the center.   :Thud:

Quote from: farmboy70 on February 14, 2017, 09:49:06 PM
Also guessing you are using the circle method to avoid tiger striping and to gain texture?

I worked with PPG color library to come up with adding DX1999 to the unreduced 9355 organisol
We came up with 3 oz per quart of unreduced paint.

I use a tight spray pattern. Not a pinpoint, more of a 6 inch pattern and put it on very wet. To the point that it lays very glossy.
I use DT 895 even if it is 70 in the booth. It seams to help. The texture comes when it drys.
Also I go with two back to back coats, no dry time between coats.
I think you are on the right track.
I was thinking of reducing the DX1999 to 2 oz per quart also.
I don't usually have a problem with striping unless it is  a larger area like your AAR and the conditions are warm.

Maybe a combination of both our methods will help. My reducer and pattern with your spot spray on the last coat.

Ill be doing the AAR soon and let you know what I come up with.
Dave

 :thankyou:  Love hearing how others do things.  Next time I'm in the booth I'll play around with some of those tips.   :ohyeah:

Quote from: farmboy70 on February 15, 2017, 04:49:47 AM
I use a tight spray pattern. Not a pinpoint, more of a 6 inch pattern and put it on very wet. To the point that it lays very glossy.
I use DT 895 even if it is 70 in the booth. It seams to help. The texture comes when it drys.
Also I go with two back to back coats, no dry time between coats.
I think you are on the right track.
I was thinking of reducing the DX1999 to 2 oz per quart also.
I don't usually have a problem with striping unless it is  a larger area like your AAR and the conditions are warm.

Maybe a combination of both our methods will help. My reducer and pattern with your spot spray on the last coat.

Ill be doing the AAR soon and let you know what I come up with.
Dave

Shot it last night and it came out OK.

I'm going to have to reshoot it because of a flaw at the rear corner.
I added at picture of it outside while we were moving it.
Dave

I love the contrast on these cars.....hard to believe they were pumping them out of the factory looking like that ! :takealook:

Really want to get the stripe on ,that will really make it pop.
Dave

Coming along nicely!!!   :bradsthumb:  That FM3 looks great outside.

Nice! Alan, you are so right, sometimes I just can't believe the factory had all this going on. Unbelievable what you could buy in 70-71. Yeah I've shot Organisol before and found it was really fun in all the textures and effects you can get with it, but yes a huge area like that mean's there is no spot fixes possible.