FM3 COLOR MATCHING

[Cuda Cody]

@farmboy70  yes, you are 100% right.  I fought the tiger stripping and blotching for a long time.  When I use the dust circles from about 4' away it lays down perfectly and looks amazing, but it's not as dark as I want.  It's funny you and I both came up with using the DX 1999.  I'm at about 2% of DX1999, but I think the Dust Circles from so far back adds a little bit more textured so I don't need as much DX1999.  And lately I've been using it without any DX685 too.  Here's the mix I use:

PPG DCC 9355 = 230.1 grams (about 8 oz)
*DT885 = 146.1 grams (about 6 oz)
DCX61 = 73.2 grams (about 2 oz)
DX685 = 12.4 grams (about 1/4 oz)
DX1999 = 6.1 grams (about 1/8 oz)

* I use one step hotter on the reducer.  So if it's 70 degrees out, instead of using 870 I use 885.  Seems to slow it down and work better with those dust circles.

How do you get it not to tiger stripe or blotch with a normal spray pattern?  @anlauto  is so right about painting the hood and fenders on the car.  It's a lot more work, but the only way to get it to come out right.  And it sucks for a short guy like me with my T-Rex arms trying to reach over an AAR and get it all covered evenly.  I have to stand on a table to reach the center.   

Also guessing you are using the circle method to avoid tiger striping and to gain texture?

I worked with PPG color library to come up with adding DX1999 to the unreduced 9355 organisol
We came up with 3 oz per quart of unreduced paint.

[farmboy70]

I use a tight spray pattern. Not a pinpoint, more of a 6 inch pattern and put it on very wet. To the point that it lays very glossy.
I use DT 895 even if it is 70 in the booth. It seams to help. The texture comes when it drys.
Also I go with two back to back coats, no dry time between coats.
I think you are on the right track.
I was thinking of reducing the DX1999 to 2 oz per quart also.
I don't usually have a problem with striping unless it is  a larger area like your AAR and the conditions are warm.

Maybe a combination of both our methods will help. My reducer and pattern with your spot spray on the last coat.

Ill be doing the AAR soon and let you know what I come up with.
Dave

[Cuda Cody]

   Love hearing how others do things.  Next time I'm in the booth I'll play around with some of those tips.   

I use a tight spray pattern. Not a pinpoint, more of a 6 inch pattern and put it on very wet. To the point that it lays very glossy.
I use DT 895 even if it is 70 in the booth. It seams to help. The texture comes when it drys.
Also I go with two back to back coats, no dry time between coats.
I think you are on the right track.
I was thinking of reducing the DX1999 to 2 oz per quart also.
I don't usually have a problem with striping unless it is  a larger area like your AAR and the conditions are warm.

Maybe a combination of both our methods will help. My reducer and pattern with your spot spray on the last coat.

Ill be doing the AAR soon and let you know what I come up with.
Dave

[farmboy70]

Shot it last night and it came out OK.

I'm going to have to reshoot it because of a flaw at the rear corner.
I added at picture of it outside while we were moving it.
Dave

[anlauto]

I love the contrast on these cars.....hard to believe they were pumping them out of the factory looking like that !

[farmboy70]

Really want to get the stripe on ,that will really make it pop.
Dave

[Cuda Cody]

Coming along nicely!!!     That FM3 looks great outside.

[RUNCHARGER]

Nice! Alan, you are so right, sometimes I just can't believe the factory had all this going on. Unbelievable what you could buy in 70-71. Yeah I've shot Organisol before and found it was really fun in all the textures and effects you can get with it, but yes a huge area like that mean's there is no spot fixes possible.