My '70 Barracuda is a non-numbers 318 car that came with a 340 6-barrel when I bought it. I loved the "wow" factor of the 6-barrel that went with the AAR clone theme of my car, but it just wasn't fast enough for me plus being in Denver at altitude I was always having to mess with the carbs and could never get it running quite right.
When I saw Mopar announce the new 392 Hemi crate engine with a wire harness specifically for older Mopars I knew it was for me. I immediately began talking to @MoparDave (http://forum.e-bodies.org/index.php?action=profile;u=10) at Roseville and ordering up the parts I needed. However, I learned many things and lessons about doing this swap and wanted to help anyone who is considering this in their e-body.
This engine swap will require fabrication and modification to the firewall and engine bay of your e-body. You will need a good supply of tools, fabrication skills, and the use of a lift helps A LOT. This is also a very expensive engine swap, so budget accordingly and expect the unexpected.
Parts List you will need
- 2016 392 Hemi crate engine
SRT® 6.4L HEMI engine. With 485 horsepower and 475 lb.-ft. of torque, this complete engine assembly includes water pump, fly wheel and clutch, front sump oil pan, intake manifold with throttle body, fuel injectors and coil packs.
FEATURES:
• 392 cu. in.
• 103.9mm Bore
• 94.6mm Stroke
• Cast Iron Block with 4-Bolt Powder Metal Caps
• Forged Steel Crank Material
• Powdered Metal, Floating Pin Connecting Rods
• Hypereutectic Aluminum Piston Material
• Nodular Iron Camshaft
• Aluminum, Hemispherical Chamber Cylinder Heads
• 54.3mm Intake Valve Size
• 42mm Exhaust Valve Size
• 10.9:1 Compression Ratio
• 6,400 Peak RPM
- 392 Hemi engine covers (they do not come with the crate engine, #5038544AE and #5038543AE)
- Mopar Performance Wiring harnesses #7707245AB
- TTI headers #1223713
For a 727/518 automatic
- Flexplate (#P5153753) and 8 bolts (#6503465)
- Full manual valve body (#TAC-17875XA for forward pattern) for 727 and a different valve body system for engaging a OD for a 518
- Optional flexible transmission dipstick (#LOK-1211447). We were able to bend and adapt the stock dipstick to fit.
- 20' of positive 2 gauge cable to move the battery to the trunk
- Bouchilion Performance Radiator (#9D-19523-20) with 1 of their hoses (#20609G) and the lower hose for a E-Body small block engine, and an overflow tank (#S6074X).
- Milodon 31000 center sump pan, #18341 pick-up tube for 2009-later 392 Hemi's, and # 85025 short bolts for the pan
DO NOT buy the Mopar rear sump pan kit
- In-tank fuel injection pump, tank, 3/8" fuel hose, and filter regulator with return (http://www.tanksinc.com)
Fuel rail
- 6 AN 90 degree 3/8" fitting that clips onto the fuel rail and fits under the engine cover, -6 AN high pressure hose, -6 AN straight fitting that connects to fitting provided by tanks inc
- Mopar Performance engine front drive system
- Power steering pump #77072448 and a remote reservoir, alternator #77072445, and ngine mounts (Shumaker #BCE57H or TTI)
- Block off plate, a remote oil filter base and high pressure hoses with fittings
DO NOT buy the Mopar 45 degree oil filter adapter as it will not fit on a k-member
- Two 5/8" hoses with a 90 degree elbow for your heater hoses
- Cold Air Intake aluminum tubing with cone filter, bands and silicone hose coupling, ¾" nipple or a ¾" hose bolt-through fitting for the clean air intake for the pcv system
Installation Instructions
- Order a new 392 Hemi. When it arrives, uncrate the new engine and remove exhaust manifolds, clutch, flex plate and if you are going with an automatic you will need to cut out the pilot bushing (3 cuts) as this is near impossible to pull out. You may be able to remove the pilot bushing through compression by packing it with grease and hammer on the pilot shaft but you will need a spare pilot shaft. Remove the oil pan and dipstick. If you want to use the stock dipstick in the block, it may be possible to re-bend and re-mark to fit around the headers. Mount the engine on an engine stand for most of the install steps below. DO NOT mount the engine on the k-member until you are ready to bolt up the transmission. Caution engine as delivered was full of oil.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/11-010117125334.jpeg)
- Drop K frame and remove engine and transmission – this is the easiest step of the swap.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-010117134149.jpeg)
- For an automatic, buy and install a new flexplate (#P5153753) and 8 bolts (#6503465). Be sure to mark the bolt pattern so the holes line up with the offset bolt pattern by marking one of the bolt holes so it lines up properly. You will also need a full manual valve body (#TAC-17875XA for forward pattern) if you are going to run the drive-by-wire pedal with a 727, otherwise buy the cable throttle body to run with your stock pedal. You will also need a flexible transmission dipstick (#LOK-1211447) or bend the stock dipstick to fit.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117121559.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117143328.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117143422.jpeg)
- You will need to relocate your battery to the trunk (buy 20' of positive 2 gauge cable) to clear the air intake. We used the 1970 starter system connected directly to the battery and mounted on the left side of the block, not the computer starter system. The wire harness is set up for the starter to be on the right side of the engine, so you will need to un-tape the harness and re-direct the wiring to reach the left side if you are going to mount your starter on the left side. Also on the wire harness you can cut off and seal the starter cable connection because you will connect the positive battery cable directly, along with the starter connect for the battery on the wire harness to the starter.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117130955.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131053.jpeg)
- You will need a center sump pump pan and pick up tube and short bolts as the oil pan is stamped steel and thicker than new pan (Milodon 31000 pan, 18341 pick-up for 2009-later 392 Hemi's, and 85025 short bolts) and install. Reposition the stud from the number 1 main cap and position to number 3, swapping the bolt from number 3 to number 1 main cap. You can use the factory windage tray and gasket, and drill two new holes in the right and left rear corners. The short bolts may bottom out on the block, so you will need to add 1-2 washers. DO NOT buy the Mopar or rear sump oil pan kit as it will hit the steering linkage. (https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117121402.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117121506.jpeg)
- Buy and install in-tank fuel injection pump, tank, 3/8" fuel hose, and filter regulator with return from www.tanksinc.com. I mounted the regulator filter on the shock cross-member towards left side and drilled two 1" holes through cross-member for fuel line clearance. Route fuel hose along left side brake line or use a 3/8" hard line but you will need to switch the fuel rail from left to right side of the block. Install a 16 gauge hot wire from engine to tank and connect to fuel pump. For 1970, you should have a vented fuel cap but for '71-74 you will need to run a vent line.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117115953.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120228.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120516.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120637.jpeg)
- Buy and install new 90 degree fitting and high pressure hose on the fuel rail. You will need a 90 degree 3/8" fitting to fit under the engine covers. I used a -6 AN 90 degree 3/8" fitting that clips onto the fuel rail, -6 AN high pressure hose, -6 AN straight fitting to connect with tanks inc fuel hose. or connect to a hard line.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117123947.jpeg)
- Buy and install the engine front drive system including the power steering pump #77072448 and a remote reservoir, alternator #77072445, and engine mounts (Shumaker #BCE57H or TTI has them) with a .120 shim on the left mount to clear headers which may require dye grinding the k-member bolt hole to fit. Alternator bolts on easy but will require you to trim the lip near the frame rail on the right side of the engine bay to fit.
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117124802.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131256.jpeg)
- The power steering pump will need a remote reservoir or a small square attached to allow the cold air intake to clear, and you will need a custom made power steering pump pressure hose with fittings to attach to the steering gear box. You will also need a 3/8" hose to attach steering box to the reservoir, and a 3/4" return hose to attach the reservoir to the pump. (https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120124.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117130858.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131540.jpeg)
- Buy and install wiring harnesses #7707245AB. This includes the drive by wire pedal which will need to be modified to fit onto the firewall if you want to use. I modified the factory pedal by cutting out all the "webbing", slightly bending a pedal from a GM SUV (you can use any pedal with a steel shaft with a slight bend), and using two bolts through the factory pedal and the GM pedal. You can also convert to cable throttle body and use your factory pedal.
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120749.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120841.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117120935.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117121051.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117121149.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117121258.jpeg)
- Install wiring, mount the ECM horizontally on the right side of the firewall above the heater core, and mount the distribution block on the right inner fender panel near the horns. NOTE the factory numbers on the stickers on the back of the ECM as these are needed if you ever need to reference what harness/ECM you have or want to custom tune the engine. The wiring harness can be installed entirely before installing the engine. The factory lighting, start system and temp sensor with sending unit stays. You will need to tie in factory power sources (battery cable and power feed through the firewall incorporated in new wiring harness).
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117134031.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117125315.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131645.jpeg)
- Cut a 1 3/4-2" hole in the firewall near the factory fuse block to feed the specific part of the new wiring harness inside and trim provided grommet on harness to fit hole. Plug in the drive by wire pedal, connect ignition power relay, attach ground wires, and mount power buss. You will use the factory neutral switch and start system so this will eliminate two wires on the new harness.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117125129.jpeg)
- Buy and install two 5/8" hoses with a 90 degree elbow for your heater hoses on the back of the engine. If you are running power brakes, you will need the brake vacuum hose to install on the back of the engine. Be sure to install these hoses BEFORE you install the engine as it is a very tight fit between the engine and the firewall.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117161600.jpeg)
- Buy and install TTI headers #1223713. The torsion bar clearance on the right side may not be adequate and you will need to dent a tube.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117130249.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131446.jpeg)
- Mount the 392 Hemi engine to the k-frame, bolt up the transmission and if you are using a 727 auto, you will need to fabricate new transmission cooler lines hugging the transmission and block just above the oil pan and run them long enough to reach the front of the radiator support. I was able to bend the factory oil tube and dipstick to fit between the headers.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117130422.jpeg)
- Install engine and trans on the k-member into the E-body from the bottom. Reattach front suspension and brake lines.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131156.jpeg)
- Connect wires for fuel pump and fans to the ECM distribution block. Connect the ground wires in the harness, and the main ground cable from the block to the frame or desired location (I used a bolt on the horns).(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131756.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131353.jpeg)
- Buy and install radiator made for a 392 Hemi. Note that the inlet and outlet for the engine are both on the passenger side. I ordered a Griffin through Bouchilion Performance (#9D-19523-20) with 1 of their hoses (20609G) and the lower hose for a E-Body small block engine. You will also need to buy and install an overflow tank (#S6074X).(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117143618.jpeg)
- Install the remote oil filter on the k-member of desired location. Install the remote power steering reservoir on the left side of the inner fender near where the battery used to be and attach hoses to the power steering pump. (https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131907.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117133753.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117133847.jpeg)
- Buy and install 392 Hemi engine covers at the end (they do not come with the crate engine, #5038544AE and #5038543AE). The left cover is a tight fit with a 2-speed wiper motor.(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117144348.jpeg)
- Buy and modify Cold Air Intake aluminum tubing with cone filter, bands and silicone hose coupling. The tube will need a hole with grommet for the air temp sensor, and a hole for the cleaner air intake supply hose, you will need to aluminum weld a nipple on or buy a ¾" hose bolt-through fitting. You will also need to fabricate a bracket to support the tube. (https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117132315.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117132215.jpeg)
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117132101.jpeg)
- Fill the engine will oil, radiator with coolant, power steering fluid in the reservoir, transmission with fluid, and tank with 91 or above fuel. The engine may not fire on the first attempt. Also, the 392 is known to run between 220-228 degrees so your fans may not kick on until 228 degrees.
Awesome Job their Dan.
Really want to do this to a 70 challenger. Thank you so much for sharing! :wowzers: Nice job!!
Very cool Dan
But you know you'll have to update this thread soon to cover the blower addition.
:twothumbsup:
I never get tired of hearing that YouTube video!!!! Nice job man. :bravo:
Super write up, any chance you have a detailed breakdown of the budget?
I want to do this :inlove:
I hate adding up the total cost on any work I do for my cars :takemymoney:
But, PM me and I can give you some numbers.
Good job and thanks for posting
Thanks for the thorough write up. I saw this setup at SEMA last year. It's awesome to finally have this computer/harness setup from Mopar. I would love to build a car around this package one day.
As always, beautiful workmanship Dan! :clapping: Love both of your cars! :bradsthumb:
That's awesome!
Reading threads like this just makes trying to land on a decision for the 65 motor more and more difficult. :dunno: :)
awesome write up Dan! I've always greatly admired your AAR clone, it is exactly what I would want to do to mine (B5 AAR/392 swap)
Quote from: ec_co on January 09, 2017, 05:22:32 PM
awesome write up Dan! I've always greatly admired your AAR clone, it is exactly what I would want to do to mine (B5 AAR/392 swap)
We need to get together this spring/summer and go for a ride.
I would love to do this swap one day as well :thinking: Hmmm
It was a fun experience for sure! :wowzers:
Nice work and nice write up! :perfect10:
Dyno at 365 hp and just under 400 TQ. 5300 ft altitude and a 727 will take away some hp/TQ
:veryexcited: Oh YA!!!!! That was cool. :popcorn: :bradsthumb: :bradsthumb: :bradsthumb: :bradsthumb: :bradsthumb: :woohoo:
HE!! YEA Frazz. Sweet :stayinlane: :toast: :ohyeah: :unitedstates: :rebelflag"
Quote from: 303 Mopar on February 04, 2017, 02:18:11 PM
Dyno at 365 hp and just under 400 TQ. 5300 ft altitude and a 727 will take away some hp/TQ
What RPM did you run up to?
Sounded like 5500-6000 rpm.
Nice and healthy!
Awesome! Would you mind if I posted pictures on our website? Beautiful car!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Blake@diyhemi.com on February 06, 2017, 03:33:52 AM
Awesome! Would you mind if I posted pictures on our website? Beautiful car!
Post away! Send me the link too.
sounds great too dan! :toast:
Nice car and nice engine swap! A nice way to get a feel for what it takes these days to actually do this. I also like the part #'s being provided. Thanks for sharing! :clapping:
Awesome job and write up. This is what makes this and forums like it invaluable.
#303 Mopar. Did something happen to the pictures in this thread? I see them in your first post, but not in the second post, I see the videos though.
Good catch! It must have happened when we went to a Secure server. I'll update his links so they work. :slapme5:
Quote from: soundcontrol on March 05, 2017, 08:01:07 AM
#303 Mopar. Did something happen to the pictures in this thread? I see them in your first post, but not in the second post, I see the videos though.
Let me know if you guys see any other dead Gallery links. It happened when we went to a Secure site. Here's how to fix the links if anyone wants to fix their own or feel free to ask me and I'll fix them for you. Showing spaces only so the links don't work and you can see the code:
OLD LINK:
[img ]http:/ /forum.e-bodies.org/gallery/7-040117131053. jpeg[ /img]
NEW LINK (changes show in red text)
[img ]https:/ /forum.e-bodies.org/gallerypics/7-040117131053. jpeg[ /img]
Quote from: soundcontrol on March 05, 2017, 08:01:07 AM
#303 Mopar. Did something happen to the pictures in this thread? I see them in your first post, but not in the second post, I see the videos though.
What a great write up and how to! Since I'm doing the same and in Colorado also I mayy be asking some questions.
Thanks, Wes
Quote from: MoparCar on May 10, 2017, 05:23:27 PM
What a great write up and how to! Since I'm doing the same and in Colorado also I mayy be asking some questions.
Thanks, Wes
Feel free to reach out Wes. I have more pics and info if you need anything. We can even get together so you can look it over if you want.
Great write up! Very detailed and love it.
You should of done a 6.1 and a tremec 6060 swap so I could follow it exactly :haha:
Anyways I have many headaches in front of me but this thread helps a lot!
Somehow I had no idea you did this swap. Absolutely perfect execution. This is exactly what I'm going to do to mine except with a manual trans. Do you have a link to how you hooked up your gauges and which ones you used? All of the mods and fixes I'm doing are just bandaids until I can save the cash for this swap. There's a place here in GA that sells the motor/trans/gauges/steering column/wiring harness/pedals...a crank-a-pallet kit for just under $9k.
I think I've figured out I'm going away from the torsion bar setup and possibly solid rear axle too. May not be worth the money. I'm planning the power disc brake and power steering conversions now.
Quote from: rebelyell on August 22, 2017, 06:13:07 AM
Somehow I had no idea you did this swap. Absolutely perfect execution. This is exactly what I'm going to do to mine except with a manual trans. Do you have a link to how you hooked up your gauges and which ones you used? All of the mods and fixes I'm doing are just bandaids until I can save the cash for this swap. There's a place here in GA that sells the motor/trans/gauges/steering column/wiring harness/pedals...a crank-a-pallet kit for just under $9k.
I think I've figured out I'm going away from the torsion bar setup and possibly solid rear axle too. May not be worth the money. I'm planning the power disc brake and power steering conversions now.
Thank you, its not perfect by any means but we did a pretty good job. I now have a Passon 4 spd OD and it completely changed the car, almost as if the 392 was built to run a manual trans.
I have the stock gauges so everything was straight forward. If you add a tach, you will need to add a tach adapter and splice into the harness because it does not come with a tach hookup.
Definitely, gives the technical information needed to undertake this great engine upgrade. Most importantly it also gives the possible pitfalls as well. Thanks
Great write up! Do you have an estimate of total parts cost? Thank you for all the pictures and info!
I did notice that you had the factory bulkhead connector basically empty. What happened to all the wires going into the dash? Is that what when in the hole drilled next to it? I'm trying to figure out how you connect the PCM to the dash harness.
Quote from: rebelyell on September 21, 2017, 11:27:28 AM
I did notice that you had the factory bulkhead connector basically empty. What happened to all the wires going into the dash? Is that what when in the hole drilled next to it? I'm trying to figure out how you connect the PCM to the dash harness.
The engine and body harnesses replace the old engine harness and plugs into the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This includes fan sensors, starter, O2 sensors, all temp sensors, fuel, ignition, etc. Some guys have mounted the PDC and/or the PDM inside the cabin, but this requires additional larger holes in the firewall. I only had to drill one 1.75" hole for the "star connector" to plug into the pedal and for easy access to the ODBII plug to allow a computer connection to diagnose codes and tuning. Things like the headlights and wipers still connect to the factory bulkhead.
Quote from: 82firebird on September 20, 2017, 05:55:50 PM
Great write up! Do you have an estimate of total parts cost? Thank you for all the pictures and info!
Total cost was around $12-13k, including a brand new 392 Hemi.
So, why did you modify the gas pedal? From what I'm finding on mine, I should be able to get full travel with just a spacer. Just curious.
Corey
The supplied pedal had the wrong angle , bolted to the firewall the pedal was dead horizontal so you had to push straight down to operate it , instead of pushing forward
Interesting. The one I got from HotWire with my harness angles fine.
Obviously a better design than the Mopar truck pedal supplied
I'm doing a 6.1 swap, so maybe an older design.
Hotwire is obviously supplying a different / better pedal with their kit
I will take a pic when I get it back in. I pulled it back out to make a spacer to give the pedal full travel and account for carpeting.
Take a picture of it while it is out too please !
I also want/need to do this swap. Thanx for the write-up and pix !!!! inspires me (makes me think i can do it!) ha! I'm getting ready to order the engine,Harness. Did you go to dave at Roseville ?
R/T
If you need help call
Yes the engine & wiring was all through Dave / Roseville
@MoparDave (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/mopardave_10)
Quote from: IMNCARN82 on October 26, 2017, 04:06:40 PM
I also want/need to do this swap. Thanx for the write-up and pix !!!! inspires me (makes me think i can do it!) ha! I'm getting ready to order the engine,Harness. Did you go to dave at Roseville ?
R/T
I ordered most everything through Dave, just make note in the write of the things not to order. There were a couple of specific things I had to get a On Track Performance Speed shop here in town, and I had Napa make the hose/connections for the power steering pump to the remote reservoir. The good news is you have a great example of one completed within 45 min of you. Come on over some time and we can go over everything. I have no doubt with your level of skills you can easily do this. And I would love to help you and your beautiful car. Any questions let me know.
If for any reason you want my help I am willing to fly up too
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on October 30, 2017, 07:59:08 AM
If for any reason you want my help I am willing to fly up too
Should be less than 10 days this time.... :cheers:
Quote from: 303 Mopar on October 30, 2017, 08:08:15 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on October 30, 2017, 07:59:08 AM
If for any reason you want my help I am willing to fly up too
Should be less than 10 days this time.... :cheers:
I'm always willing to lend a hand as well :)
For a couple grand more it seems like a no brainier but then you prob have to pay for the blower eh?
Saw the other thread, not bad ~27k all in
Quote from: 303 Mopar on October 30, 2017, 08:08:15 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on October 30, 2017, 07:59:08 AM
If for any reason you want my help I am willing to fly up too
Should be less than 10 days this time.... :cheers:
That would depend on how many we could line up to do in one go !!
ya was already on the 6.2L Just gonna take a little while longer to fund. Seems like it would be the best option for my car. Ha. Then get the AAR shield with the hellcat logo. 8)
Doubt my T-5 is up to that tho. So new trans. too. Maybe do the 6.4 and add a supercharger later? I prefer the 5 speed. And no power steering. Is that a problem ?
There's a black novs here. New LS,Eddy EFI,turbo. Keep running into him at shows. Need something tricked out. Hmmm
R/T
Nice build.
Quote from: Ricky Rodder on June 24, 2018, 09:35:41 AM
Nice build.
Thanks! Feel free to message me with any questions, I've tried to help a lot of guys on these Gen III swaps.
Had I known it was going to take me so long to finish my car I wouldn't have built the smallblock stroker, I'd have followed this path. Great job and excellent writeup on the work involved.
What kind of engine mounts did you use for the Gen 3 swap?
I see Schumacher has a sale going on, I'm still a ways out on the swap so wondering if I should buy these now.
Any issues or regrets with whatever mount system you used?
Thx
Quote from: Katfish on July 14, 2018, 05:24:52 PM
What kind of engine mounts did you use for the Gen 3 swap?
I see Schumacher has a sale going on, I'm still a ways out on the swap so wondering if I should buy these now.
Any issues or regrets with whatever mount system you used?
Thx
I used TTI's mounts and had to shim them 2 washers on the drivers side for the headers to clear the steering box. I would say either would work well.
I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference? Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.
Quote from: Katfish on July 14, 2018, 08:46:36 PM
I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference? Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.
Cars have low mounts, I wouldn't touch a truck motor unless you like that timing cover/intake.
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on July 15, 2018, 04:52:44 AM
Quote from: Katfish on July 14, 2018, 08:46:36 PM
I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference? Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.
Cars have low mounts, I wouldn't touch a truck motor unless you like that timing cover/intake.
So could you use the truck harness with the car intake?
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 15, 2018, 05:42:22 AM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on July 15, 2018, 04:52:44 AM
Quote from: Katfish on July 14, 2018, 08:46:36 PM
I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference? Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.
Cars have low mounts, I wouldn't touch a truck motor unless you like that timing cover/intake.
So could you use the truck harness with the car intake?
They should be pretty similar but I do not have a truck or car harness to reference.
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Dan
I am nearing the end of my build and have run into brake issues. My Cuda had a 9" booster and factory style MS with my 440. I changed the MS to a Wilwood 1" bore after I made the 6.4 swap but kept the 9" booster. Now my brake pedal is stiff but there is no pressure at the calibers. I also upgraded my 4 piston Wilwood calibers to the 6 piston. The two smaller pistons are grabbing the top 1/2 of the rotor but larger 4 pistons are not grabbing. Thus the car does not stop for anything.
I have narrowed the problem down to two things. The 9" booster is not big enough for the vacuum pressure the Gen 3 engines put out. I see you have a 11" booster and have seen that on many other swaps. Is this working well for you?
The 1" Wilwood bore size might also be too big from what I am reading.
I have a few options and would love your feedback.
1. Run the Wiwood MS strait to the wall and eliminate the whole booster/vacuum issue. I might still have to go to a 7/8 bore size to get the adequate brake caliber pressure.
2. Swap the 9" booster to a 11". This would probably work if I had a stock style MS but with the Wilwood I may still have an issue. They were never made to run with boosters in the first place.
3. Go to a Hydroboost at a substantially higher cost. Between the booster and lines I am looking at $800 but this would definitely eliminate any issue concerning not have enough brake pressure.
I have a Magnumforce suspension with rack and pinion. The Mopar/Dodge factory PS has given me nothing but issues since my install. Apparently it puts out too much pressure for my rack and makes the fluid extremely hot. The pump whines badly, especially under hard turns. I was also experiencing fluid blowing out the external reservoir. I recently added a Heidts adjustable pressure valve and a cooler. This has made things better but it still isn't great. By dialing down the pressure I am actually reducing the amount of power assist. I am still getting some whining from the pump too after the fluid heats up and under hard turns. Not only does the noise make driving anything but fun, it also gives me concern about added the Hydroboost.
Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I just want to be able to enjoy driving my car which had been down for over a year with all the changes I made.
Thank you very much.
Daryl
@daryld (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/daryld_996) - Couple of suggestions first on the 6 pot caliper. Loosen it and tilt the whole caliper back so it is perpendicular to the ground, and then bleed. There is a known issue, which I had too, where because of the curvature of the caliper and potential bubble of air can exist in the top corner even after you think it is bled correctly. Also, make sure you bed in your brake pads correctly. There are specific instructions on how to this, and how to start over if you didn't do it. To be honest I am not thrilled with the Wilwood's. I thought they were going to be amazing and while they stop ok, it is no better than stock.
I have driven my friends '70 Challenger with hydroboost and they stop extremely well. In fact, maybe too good because the pedal is very sensitive. If you go this route, you need to change your MC as the 1" will not work. This is why I haven't changed it yet.
On you steering, I have the stock steering box and it works fine, so I can't help you with your rack set up. Maybe some one else who has done the swap can help.
Hey bud
I have a tko 600 so can't help you on the tranny question. Sorry about that. I would definitely look into an overdrive tranny if I were you unless you plan to just drive it on the street or drag with it.
As for the PS pump. All I can tell you is that even when I heavily reatricted the Mopar pump it still was too much pressure for my rack and whinned all the time. Magnumforce finally told me that that pump would not work with my rack and sold me a GM pump, pulley and custom bracket that works on the Gen 3 block. Since then everything has been great.
Also, pay attention to your brakes. These engines do not male a lot of vacuum so if you are planning on running anything but stock disc or drums, I would run a Wilwood 7/8 bore reservior to the wall for manuel brakes or buy a hydroboost, like I did, and with a Wilwood 1 1/8 bore.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your build.
Daryl
Daryl,
I appreciate the tip/update.
I went with the Wilwood 4-wheel 12.19" disc setup with the 15/16 manual master cylinder. 17" YearOne Rallyes are also on the list.
I'm looking at a gear vendors overdrive system short-term, while hoping someone starts selling a kit for the 8 speed auto (or i move out of Chicago and get a 6-speed).
What did you use for fuel lines? I see InlineTube sells both the supply and return lines.
That should work if you go manuel and don't use a booster.
There is a company making a package for the 8 speed. Don't remember the name but they were advertising on FB in the Gen 3 Hemi Swap I believe.
I use some black braided rumber 6-AN I bought of ebay.
I vote this thread become a sticky.
The Gen III are going to be the wave in the near future.
Albeit, already.
Quote from: compugod on November 18, 2018, 10:15:45 AM
@303 Mopar (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/303-mopar_7), I appreciate the help!
Where did you tap in for water temp and oil pressure? I don't see any analog signals out.
In the instruction manual, they make it sound like you need a dealership to finish the install. Were you able to skip this step?
The water temp sensor is installed into the water pump on the front of the engine and connects through the stock fuse block to the stock gauge on the other side. I do not have a oil pressure gauge, but redlinegaugeworks.com sells a stock one that can also connect to the oil pressure sensor.
We did not have to do all those steps for the pedal, it was already programmed to run the engine. Did you buy the kit or are you piecing parts together?
I did significantly modify the wiring harness on 303s Cuda , the was a lot of unnessisary wires & going to the wrong places too !!
He was freaking out wondering who could possibly fix it if it didn't work when I was done but it worked perfectly
the Water temp sender was matched the factory gauge so it was the obvious choice .
Isn't that the easiest way to install an engine !!
Great video !!
Nice video!
I was wondering if your buddy was on his way to a bank robbery? :rofl:
At least you took the right approach and put it in from underneath, there are many that still try to stab it in from the top.
As a fyi... Not all engines have the longer stud to mount the oil pickup tube. I bought a 2017 5.7 for my project and it does not have the longer main cap stud.
The factory part number for the stud is 6506333AA. I found a couple people selling them on ebay, and Summit carries them too,
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-06506333aa/overview/ (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-06506333aa/overview/).
(https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/mop-06506333aa_xk_ml.jpg)
:bigthumb:
Excellent build and a great thread of helpful info.
How did you wire the four wires that are for Start, Start Run, 12v, and Neutral Safety switch? I am awful at wiring and not sure if they can connect to starter relay? Or wires from ignition switch ?
I'm down to basically these last few wires.
@crusty,
I don't think you can hook it up through the original starter relay. It's basically a Hotwire job. I added a hidden button for mine since the run position on the key doesn't have power while cranking. So mine I turn key to run and hit a button (wired into run) to start.
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For simplicity I connected the starter using the original ign switch & relay & just connected the 2 wires to the new starter .
if you go through the computer when you signal it to start the computer takes over & in my van 4 out of 10 times it would refuse to crank the engine over at all , who needs that crap . KISS Keep it simple silly the 70 system works great :bigthumb:
Thanks for thread link. definitely helps understand a little better how it all works.