392 Hemi Swap

[IMNCARN82]

ya   was already on the 6.2L   Just gonna take a little while longer to fund.   Seems like it would be the best option for my car. Ha.   Then get the AAR shield with the hellcat logo.        

Doubt my T-5 is up to that tho.  So new trans. too.    Maybe do the 6.4 and add a supercharger later?      I prefer the 5 speed.  And no power steering.  Is that a problem ?     

There's a black novs here. New LS,Eddy EFI,turbo.  Keep running into him at shows.  Need something tricked out.   Hmmm

R/T

[Ricky Rodder]

Nice build.

[303 Mopar]

Nice build.

Thanks! Feel free to message me with any questions, I've tried to help a lot of guys on these Gen III swaps. 

[ledphoot]

Had I known it was going to take me so long to finish my car I wouldn't have built the smallblock stroker, I'd have followed this path. Great job and excellent writeup on the work involved.

[Katfish]

What kind of engine mounts did you use for the Gen 3 swap?
I see Schumacher has a sale going on, I'm still a ways out on the swap so wondering if I should buy these now.

Any issues or regrets with whatever mount system you used?

Thx

[303 Mopar]

What kind of engine mounts did you use for the Gen 3 swap?
I see Schumacher has a sale going on, I'm still a ways out on the swap so wondering if I should buy these now.

Any issues or regrets with whatever mount system you used?

Thx

I used TTI's mounts and had to shim them 2 washers on the drivers side for the headers to clear the steering box. I would say either would work well.

[Katfish]

I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference?  Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference?  Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.

Cars have low mounts, I wouldn't touch a truck motor unless you like that timing cover/intake.

[Cuda70-74]

I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference?  Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.

Cars have low mounts, I wouldn't touch a truck motor unless you like that timing cover/intake.

So could you use the truck harness with the car intake?

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I see the motor mounts have options for low mount AC.
What's the difference?  Which Gen3 motors have the low mount AC?
I'm most likely going to get a 5.7 out of a wrecked car or truck to keep costs down.

Cars have low mounts, I wouldn't touch a truck motor unless you like that timing cover/intake.

So could you use the truck harness with the car intake?

They should be pretty similar but I do not have a truck or car harness to reference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[daryld]

Dan

I am nearing the end of my build and have run into brake issues. My Cuda had a 9" booster and factory style MS with my 440. I changed the MS to a Wilwood 1" bore after I made the 6.4 swap but kept the 9" booster. Now my brake pedal is stiff but there is no pressure at the calibers. I also upgraded my 4 piston Wilwood calibers to the 6 piston. The two smaller pistons are grabbing the top 1/2 of the rotor but larger 4 pistons are not grabbing. Thus the car does not stop for anything.

I have narrowed the problem down to two things. The 9" booster is not big enough for the vacuum pressure the Gen 3 engines put out. I see you have a 11" booster and have seen that on many other swaps. Is this working well for you?

The 1" Wilwood bore size might also be too big from what I am reading.

I have a few options and would love your feedback.

1. Run the Wiwood MS strait to the wall and eliminate the whole booster/vacuum issue. I might still have to go to a 7/8 bore size to get the adequate brake caliber pressure.
2. Swap the 9" booster to a 11". This would probably work if I had a stock style MS but with the Wilwood I may still have an issue. They were never made to run with boosters in the first place.
3. Go to a Hydroboost at a substantially higher cost. Between the booster and lines I am looking at $800 but this would definitely eliminate any issue concerning not have enough brake pressure.

I have a Magnumforce suspension with rack and pinion. The Mopar/Dodge factory PS has given me nothing but issues since my install. Apparently it puts out too much pressure for my rack and makes the fluid extremely hot. The pump whines badly, especially under hard turns. I was also experiencing fluid blowing out the external reservoir. I recently added a Heidts adjustable pressure valve and a cooler. This has made things better but it still isn't great. By dialing down the pressure I am actually reducing the amount of power assist. I am still getting some whining from the pump too after the fluid heats up and under hard turns. Not only does the noise make driving anything but fun, it also gives me concern about added the Hydroboost.

Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I just want to be able to enjoy driving my car which had been down for over a year with all the changes I made.

Thank you very much.

Daryl

[303 Mopar]

@daryld - Couple of suggestions first on the 6 pot caliper.  Loosen it and tilt the whole caliper back so it is perpendicular to the ground, and then bleed.  There is a known issue, which I had too, where because of the curvature of the caliper and potential bubble of air can exist in the top corner even after you think it is bled correctly.  Also, make sure you bed in your brake pads correctly.  There are specific instructions on how to this, and how to start over if you didn't do it. To be honest I am not thrilled with the Wilwood's. I thought they were going to be amazing and while they stop ok, it is no better than stock.

I have driven my friends '70 Challenger with hydroboost and they stop extremely well. In fact, maybe too good because the pedal is very sensitive.  If you go this route, you need to change your MC as the 1" will not work.  This is why I haven't changed it yet.

On you steering, I have the stock steering box and it works fine, so I can't help you with your rack set up.  Maybe some one else who has done the swap can help.

[392 Cuda]

@daryld , I've been trying to plan an AlterKtion (power rack & pinion), 392-727 setup for the past couple months.

My head is spinning from all the little pieces needed, but I think I found what you are looking for.

Randy at Bouchillon Performance helped me put together a parts list to start. He sells a modified Power Steering pump with 15% less pressure for $445.

I may have to start a separate thread for my 50 questions... but I'll start with the Torque Converter. What stall is everyone using with the 392/727 setup?

[daryld]

Hey bud

I have a tko 600 so can't help you on the tranny question. Sorry about that. I would definitely look into an overdrive tranny if I were you unless you plan to just drive it on the street or drag with it.

As for the PS pump. All I can tell you is that even when I heavily reatricted the Mopar pump it still was too much pressure for my rack and whinned all the time. Magnumforce finally told me that that pump would not work with my rack and sold me a GM pump, pulley and custom bracket that works on the Gen 3 block. Since then everything has been great.

Also, pay attention to your brakes. These engines do not male a lot of vacuum so if you are planning on running anything but stock disc or drums, I would run a Wilwood 7/8 bore reservior to the wall for manuel brakes or buy a hydroboost, like I did, and with a Wilwood 1 1/8 bore.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your build.

Daryl

[392 Cuda]

Daryl,

I appreciate the tip/update.

I went with the Wilwood 4-wheel 12.19" disc setup with the 15/16 manual master cylinder. 17" YearOne Rallyes are also on the list.

I'm looking at a gear vendors overdrive system short-term, while hoping someone starts selling a kit for the 8 speed auto (or i move out of Chicago and get a 6-speed).

What did you use for fuel lines? I see InlineTube sells both the supply and return lines.