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Upper and Lower front control arms

Started by cudabob496, August 20, 2017, 01:18:19 PM

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cudabob496

Anyone use the QA1 products? Easy install?
72 Cuda, owned for 27 years, 496, solid roller, 3500 stall, 3.91 gears, ported Stage VI heads, 3 inch X-pipe exhaust, 850 DP, ram air setup, fuel cell, batt in trunk,
Wilwood brakes, Weld wheels, MT ET Street tires, fiberglass hood, Alum radiator.

Rev-It-Up

We used the QA1 lower control arms on the duster and have no complaints.  They fit perfectly and look and feel like high quality materials.  Very happy.
Rev-It-Up

cudabob496

Is it better to replace the lower rather than the upper, if existing
are original?
72 Cuda, owned for 27 years, 496, solid roller, 3500 stall, 3.91 gears, ported Stage VI heads, 3 inch X-pipe exhaust, 850 DP, ram air setup, fuel cell, batt in trunk,
Wilwood brakes, Weld wheels, MT ET Street tires, fiberglass hood, Alum radiator.


Rev-It-Up

We just replaced the bushings on the upper control arms. We would have done the same on the lower, except our lower control arms had a lot of slop and play in them.
Rev-It-Up

cudabob496

Quote from: Rev-It-Up on August 20, 2017, 02:33:08 PM
We just replaced the bushings on the upper control arms. We would have done the same on the lower, except our lower control arms had a lot of slop and play in them.

ya, the lowers have a fix, but it requires welding.
thanks
72 Cuda, owned for 27 years, 496, solid roller, 3500 stall, 3.91 gears, ported Stage VI heads, 3 inch X-pipe exhaust, 850 DP, ram air setup, fuel cell, batt in trunk,
Wilwood brakes, Weld wheels, MT ET Street tires, fiberglass hood, Alum radiator.

Rev-It-Up

Quote from: cudabob496 on August 20, 2017, 10:24:25 PM
Quote from: Rev-It-Up on August 20, 2017, 02:33:08 PM
We just replaced the bushings on the upper control arms. We would have done the same on the lower, except our lower control arms had a lot of slop and play in them.

ya, the lowers have a fix, but it requires welding.
thanks

Correct! I saw the videos on how to do it, but we were rushing to get things done for Carlisle. It was faster/easier to have Summit send them to us next day for free since we live in he Atlanta area. If I ever do get a welder, this will be my first welding project as practice.  :yes:
Rev-It-Up

HP2

Quote from: cudabob496 on August 20, 2017, 02:18:17 PM
Is it better to replace the lower rather than the upper, if existing
are original?

No. Lowers are a basic locating device with no adjustments available. Uppers can provide gains in caster and camber adjustment. Given the choice between of one over the other, uppers gain you more improvements.


1 Wild R/T

Quote from: HP2 on August 21, 2017, 07:49:21 AM
Quote from: cudabob496 on August 20, 2017, 02:18:17 PM
Is it better to replace the lower rather than the upper, if existing
are original?

No. Lowers are a basic locating device with no adjustments available. Uppers can provide gains in caster and camber adjustment. Given the choice between of one over the other, uppers gain you more improvements.

Not entirely true... The lower can adjust caster by changing the length of the strut rod.....  Shortening it increases positive caster... And yes it was not intended to be an adjustment but the factory engineers never expected the upper to be redesigned to increase caster either...   Something to be aware of people like to use polyurethane strut rod bushings, but if the bushing is made to which as most are it effectively lengthens the strut rod decreasing caster.... Not what you want...... 

So if you alter caster by using a redesigned upper control arm your moving the upper ball joint rearward.... Which move the whole wheel rearward.... This may be good as often the first place a tire rubs is the bottom of the fender ahead of the tire... But the second place is usually rear of the centerline & above the tire.... And moving the tire/wheel rearward is gonna bring that closer......

So do you shorten the strut rod? Well you can safely move the lower ball joint forward about 1/2-3/4", more than that & you cause the lower bushing to bind & fail....

Personally I like to do a little of both, I shorten the strut rods 3/8" & I use Moog offset bushings in the upper control arms to push the upper ball joint back....

The wheel stays close to stock location, I don't bind the lower bushing & I get 5+ degrees of positive caster.....