My motor always leaned to the passenger side just a little. I suspected my K Member was possibly tweaked from being wrecked. I was already tired of the manual steering. Real hassle in parking lots and just to sloppy for my taste. So I decided to go with the new Borgeson quick ratio power steering conversion and swap out the K member and LCA's while I was at it. Going with the Pro Forged T/A idler and pitman arm also. I have to say I'm really impressed with the QA1 stuff. Well built and fit was excellent. One big bonus I hadn't thought about was how much more room I have under the motor. The oil pan can literally come straight down with nothing in the way. I have the column modified but not installed yet. Everything else is buttoned up. Pics are before installing the pump and hoses. Will post some final pics once everything is complete. Really love how it all looks.
That looks sweet, can't wait to hear if it made much difference in the handling. Looks like you already had the Hotchkiss setup on your ride.
I went with the full QA1 setup and ridetech shocks for the front. Not sure what I am going to do in the back yet, maybe Hotchkiss leafs, maybe some kind of composite leaf...
Thanks for the pics, I will be bolting mine in soon :)
That looks great! I love the matching color to the Hotchkis items? Did you re-powdercoat it or just spray it? Do you recall the color to match the Hotchkis gold?
Thanks-Wes
Do you have front sway bars? I am thinking of getting QA1 k member, but I think I've read somewhere that it's not compatible with Hotchkis sway bar. Is that true?
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looks great !
Quote from: Archialfa on May 12, 2018, 10:15:47 AM
Do you have front sway bars? I am thinking of getting QA1 k member, but I think I've read somewhere that it's not compatible with Hotchkis sway bar. Is that true?
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I could be wrong, but that looks like the Hotchkiss Swaybar attached to the QA1 K-Member in his photos... Looks like he had the Hotchkiss setup prior to the QA1 K-Member / Lower Control Arms...
I purchased the complete QA1 setup minus their shocks, Ridetech Shocks, Borgenson steering box, new tie rods / idler arm and 1.14 Torsion Bars to address the 45 year old suspension in the Cuda. Hoping the QA1 sway bar is comparable to Hotchkiss' bar.
Just like ledphoot said. I had the Hotchkis stuff prior to installing the QA1 K member and LCA's. No issues what so ever. Everything bolted up and mated just fine.
It all looks very nice.
I know the Hotchkis UCAs are intended to correct some bump steer on a factory design, given you have gone away from that, you may want to measure bump steer and see if you've induced any. :alan2cents:
That's a really nice setup! :stayinlane:
Can't wait to hear how much of a difference it makes.
Nice set up I also got the same K member
Hotchkis upper control arms are marketed as "geometry correcting". From their site the exact quote is "specifically designed to correct the excessive caster gain and create the proper negative camber curve this kit features a Hotchkis exclusive Laser Cut Pick Up Point Relocation Bracket and TIG-welded Light Weight A-Arms which are fully gusseted for strength and feature High Articulation Rod Ends for maximum adjustability. "
They also sell an adjustable tie rod kits, which they call steering rod kits, which are designed to work in concert with their upper arms to provide overall geometric improvements. The quote from this part states "Benefits: Corrects Bump Steer in Conjunction with Upper A-Arm. " If you look at the mounting point of the tie rod ends, there is a spacer incorporated into the outer end, which lowers the pivot point of that end, a primary contributor to the bump steer issue.
The QA1 k-frame and lower control arms primary design consideration was to improve rigidity over stock. After that were loss of weight. No geometric improves were necessary, although, depending on where the located everything, they could have built a couple of degrees of caster into them, but I've never seen any mention of them doing this.
Got the pump, lines and steering coupler installed from the Borgeson set up. I did powder coat the bracket. Haven't driven the car yet other than down the driveway. But I can tell you I love that power steering after having manual on the car. You will notice the bracket for the pump is completely different from the factory style. At first look I thought it wouldn't be sturdy enough with just one bracket on the rear of the pump. But it's solid as a rock! No movement or flexing at all.
Fist impressions on how the steering feels and responds are excellent.
thanks. Yes I scuffed and painted the QA1 parts. Did the same treatment to my Magnum Force sub frame connectors. I used base coat with a mat clear over it. I use Sikkens so unless you have a jobber that sells that my Formula won't work. I will look and see if I can match it to a factory color code. Color turned out to me a excellent match. I like the look a lot better than the gloss black.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I really like the matched look. Now it looks like a system.
Wes
Here we go on the paint code. It's a 2009 Chrysler code ZKJ in the redder variation. Below is the formula using Akzo Nobel (Sikkens) water base. Just remember to use a flat clear over it. The shine effects the color shading.
Thanks for posting the color code!
Wes
I think I like this set up keeping the torsion bars instead of the RMS alterKtion or the magnumforce coil overs. But what do I know :dunno: I'm still planning and researching what will work best. QA1 and Hotchkiss sounds like a sweet combination!
:iagree:
Shane,
What idler arm did you use with your QA1 setup? I got a Moog idler arm and there is too much slop in the fitment to the k-member. Over 1/4". I pulled the stock idler off my factory k-member and it has a full bushing, much less slop, more like 1/16" of play. Curious what you used and how it fit.
Thanks!!!
I really prefer torsion bars as well on my cars.
Quote from: ledphoot on May 26, 2018, 07:34:59 PM
Shane,
What idler arm did you use with your QA1 setup? I got a Moog idler arm and there is too much slop in the fitment to the k-member. Over 1/4". I pulled the stock idler off my factory k-member and it has a full bushing, much less slop, more like 1/16" of play. Curious what you used and how it fit.
Thanks!!!
Shim it with washers. :bradsthumb:
Quote from: Brads70 on May 27, 2018, 02:48:19 AM
Quote from: ledphoot on May 26, 2018, 07:34:59 PM
Shane,
What idler arm did you use with your QA1 setup? I got a Moog idler arm and there is too much slop in the fitment to the k-member. Over 1/4". I pulled the stock idler off my factory k-member and it has a full bushing, much less slop, more like 1/16" of play. Curious what you used and how it fit.
Thanks!!!
Yep. What he said.
But I am using Proforge T/A idler and Pittman arms.
Shim it with washers. :bradsthumb:
I ordered the firm feel idler arm bearing kit. Looks like it will address everything that needs addressing.
Interestingly I stumbled on an old TRW idler arm and it looks just like the one I pulled off my factory K-Member.
Not horribly impressed with these moog pieces. Moog used to be the good stuff
Quick question... How did you get that sway bar bolt to start?? The 7.5" long sway bar bolt doesn't seem to be long enough to start the nut on it. I put an 8" grade-8 bolt through it and that worked.. Just curious how you accomplished this with the supplied bolt.
:slapme5: :takemymoney:
Quote from: ledphoot on June 25, 2018, 12:23:04 PM
Quick question... How did you get that sway bar bolt to start?? The 7.5" long sway bar bolt doesn't seem to be long enough to start the nut on it. I put an 8" grade-8 bolt through it and that worked.. Just curious how you accomplished this with the supplied bolt.
I used whatever came with the Hotchkis sway bar. Didn't notice any issue. :thinking:
Quote from: Shane Kelley on June 26, 2018, 10:48:12 AM
:slapme5: :takemymoney:Quote from: ledphoot on June 25, 2018, 12:23:04 PM
Quick question... How did you get that sway bar bolt to start?? The 7.5" long sway bar bolt doesn't seem to be long enough to start the nut on it. I put an 8" grade-8 bolt through it and that worked.. Just curious how you accomplished this with the supplied bolt.
I used whatever came with the Hotchkis sway bar. Didn't notice any issue. :thinking:
The one that came with the QA1 sway bar didn't leave any room to start the nut. The tabs on the swaybar are very thick. I checked my hotchkiss bar on the Challenger and it's tapered a little more.
Thanks for the feedback :drinkingbud:
I use the k frame when jacking up the front. Can you still do that with the QA1?
Quote from: 7212Mopar on December 07, 2018, 07:45:24 AM
I use the k frame when jacking up the front. Can you still do that with the QA1?
I put a 24" wide 2x6 on my jack to spread out the pressure on the front K member bar. So not to put a lot of pressure right in the middle of the bar.
I agree with you on putting the sway bar on top the K member. That's something I have looked over and planned on doing but just haven't got around to it yet. The sway bar below definitely can cause some ground clearance issues on roads with a big crown. My car sits pretty low so I scrape on those if I'm not careful and sometimes when I am careful. I did use a longer link with my bar for a better angle that wasn't so steep.
To move the sway bar above the K we are going to need a solid spacer so the bar will clear the K member and probably a short link like yours. It's on my to do list.