QA1 K Member Install

[Shane Kelley]

thanks.  Yes I scuffed and painted the QA1 parts. Did the same treatment to my Magnum Force sub frame connectors. I used base coat with a mat clear over it. I use Sikkens so unless you have a jobber that sells that my Formula won't work. I will look and see if I can match it to a factory color code. Color turned out to me a excellent match. I like the look a lot better than the gloss black.

[moparcar]

Thanks for the info. Yeah I really like the matched look. Now it looks like a system.
Wes

[Shane Kelley]

Here we go on the paint code. It's a 2009 Chrysler code ZKJ in the redder variation. Below is the formula using Akzo Nobel (Sikkens) water base. Just remember to use a flat clear over it. The shine effects the color shading.

[moparcar]

Thanks for posting the color code!
Wes

[Swamp Donkey]

   I think I like this set up keeping the torsion bars instead of the RMS alterKtion or the magnumforce coil overs.  But what do I know I'm still planning and researching what will work best. QA1 and Hotchkiss sounds like a sweet combination!

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[ledphoot]

Shane,

What idler arm did you use with your QA1 setup? I got a Moog idler arm and there is too much slop in the fitment to the k-member.  Over 1/4". I pulled the stock idler off my factory k-member and it has a full bushing, much less slop, more like 1/16" of play.  Curious what you used and how it fit.

Thanks!!!

[RUNCHARGER]

I really prefer torsion bars as well on my cars.

[Brads70]

Shane,

What idler arm did you use with your QA1 setup? I got a Moog idler arm and there is too much slop in the fitment to the k-member.  Over 1/4". I pulled the stock idler off my factory k-member and it has a full bushing, much less slop, more like 1/16" of play.  Curious what you used and how it fit.

Thanks!!!

Shim it with washers. 

[Shane Kelley]

Shane,

What idler arm did you use with your QA1 setup? I got a Moog idler arm and there is too much slop in the fitment to the k-member.  Over 1/4". I pulled the stock idler off my factory k-member and it has a full bushing, much less slop, more like 1/16" of play.  Curious what you used and how it fit.

Thanks!!!

Yep. What he said.
But I am using Proforge T/A idler and Pittman arms.

Shim it with washers. 

[ledphoot]

I ordered the firm feel idler arm bearing kit. Looks like it will address everything that needs addressing.

Interestingly I stumbled on an old TRW idler arm and it looks just like the one I pulled off my factory K-Member.

Not horribly impressed with these moog pieces. Moog used to be the good stuff

[ledphoot]

Quick question... How did you get that sway bar bolt to start?? The 7.5" long sway bar bolt doesn't seem to be long enough to start the nut on it. I put an 8" grade-8 bolt through it and that worked.. Just curious how you accomplished this with the supplied bolt.

[Shane Kelley]

 

Quick question... How did you get that sway bar bolt to start?? The 7.5" long sway bar bolt doesn't seem to be long enough to start the nut on it. I put an 8" grade-8 bolt through it and that worked.. Just curious how you accomplished this with the supplied bolt.

I used whatever came with the Hotchkis sway bar. Didn't notice any issue.

[ledphoot]

Quick question... How did you get that sway bar bolt to start?? The 7.5" long sway bar bolt doesn't seem to be long enough to start the nut on it. I put an 8" grade-8 bolt through it and that worked.. Just curious how you accomplished this with the supplied bolt.

I used whatever came with the Hotchkis sway bar. Didn't notice any issue.

The one that came with the QA1 sway bar didn't leave any room to start the nut. The tabs on the swaybar are very thick. I checked my hotchkiss bar on the Challenger and it's tapered a little more.

[dodj]

@Shane Kelley
Looking at replacing my K with the QA1 piece. Now that you have had it on your car and driving for the summer season, is there anything you don't like about it?
Thanks