Hi all, looking for general advise on exhaust for ground clearance. Love the stance of my Challenger but I'm scraping pavement nearly every time I take it out for a drive. Honestly don't know how the previous owner took this thing anywhere... lol.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=988&d=1587233785)
Got a whopping 2" of ground clearance on the passenger side with no one in the car. That neat dimple at the front of the header was the result of the mechanic trying to get it on an alignment rack after installing SPC adjustable upper A arms to get correct camber. The mufflers at the rear bottom out occasionally as well if I hit a good whoopey-doo on the highway over 75mph. Currently has a set of Hooker Super Comp's and Pypes 2-1/2" exhaust.
Plan is to install a set of TTI shorty's and have 2-1/2" exhaust (with X-pipe) all the way back and have a set of mufflers only just prior to the exhaust tips up high next to the tank. Like the sound (and location)of the Magnaflows Topcat has on his Cuda and am leaning in that direction. Would like to purchase as much of it as possible from TTI to avoid issues. A few folks with the TTI shorty's have noted their Header adapter pipes could be up closer to the bottom of the car. Will give TTI a call and see how much they can help out.
I have already purchased a 90 degree oil filter adapter and it's on the way. Anything other considerations I need to be mindful of?
-Scott
You should not have ground issues with shorty headers and even full length TTI that goes above the steering linkage. TTI exhaust system had issue with their straight header adapters but they have a fix for that. Just talk to Sam at TTI. A few of us got the fix and there is thread on here. Is this small block or big block.
^^ Small block 360. Did not see mention of a fix in the threads I have read.. can you please link?
Hooker should just quit making headers altogether. Their Mopar headers have been junk for decades, they could easily have updated their obsolete designs and poor workmanshhip by now.
:iagree:
I realize it's a different engine, but I'm running the TTI long tube headers on my '70 'Cuda with a 440 and have no issues with the headers or exhaust hitting. And the front of my car has the torsion bars adjusted so it sits lower than normal.
How about a picture of your car to get an idea on it's stance ? Your current header clearance sucks :thumbdown:
I've looked at the TTI long tube, best photos installed I've seen puts the collector right at or just below the tranny pan. Might still be too low. If anyone has them installed and would care to post up some pics I'd be happy to look at them. Shorty's seem to be the best bet to guarantee ground clearance.
Side view
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=999&d=1587259054)
Ground level
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=997&d=1587258885)
From the collector back
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=998&d=1587258964)
One thing to do is to check what the ride height is set at. Then compare to what it should be. All exhaust clearances are based on what the factory recommended ride height is. The specs can be found in section 2-30 of your 1973 Dodge Chassis Service Manual.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ride2h.htm
Quote from: Scooter on April 18, 2020, 02:06:23 PM
^^ Small block 360. Did not see mention of a fix in the threads I have read.. can you please link?
Your car does not look too low based on your tires. Check your engine mounts an transmission mounts too. Links below.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/exhaust/17/those-wtti-exhaust-experience-please-enter/1659/
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/shout-out-to-sam-davis-at-tti-exhaust/5653/15
https://forum.e-bodies.org/exhaust/17/new-tti-exhaust-issue-with-pic/5436/msg77644#msg77644
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/a983ada0ef6c17f9cef5a91bd3665cbd.jpg)
Gen3 Hemi TTI headers, front is lowered a bit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am running 245/45/17 front and center of wheel fender arch is about 24.75" from ground, on the low side. But I am running Hotchikis 1.1 torsion bar. The TTI header flange end is about 3.25" to the floor. I don't have ground clearance issue after the TTI tail piece fix and I have a sloped driveway. If you have taller tires, you will have more clearance.
Maybe I was one of the lucky ones.. My Hooker Super Comp headers{1 7/8th primaries} had no issues with ground clearance..I used one of the first TTI 3 inch H pipes for a gear vendors OD and had to report on the fit...From there it was the standard TTI 3 inch exhaust..The exhaust can only be so close to the floorpan...If the vehicle is lowered from the factory ride height there's not much to be done other than a full custom exhaust with some creative routing.. :alan2cents:
Thanks for the photo Goody! You've got more than double my clearance at that location and does not look like yours have ever touched asphalt.
Current tires Back BFG 255-60r-15 102s, Front BFG 255-60r-15 95s. Engine and tranny mounts look correct. Torsion bars are adjusted down.
Here is a shot from the rear forward.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1001&d=1587264926)
I have Pypes 2.5 exhaust as well.. my mufflers appear to be higher up than what I'm seeing in your photo
(https://i.postimg.cc/przfRmPX/P1010022.jpg)
I've got the cheap Hooker Headers, routed the exhaust through the cross member
(https://i.postimg.cc/x8KCcYwR/P1010024.jpg)
^^^ Yup.. yours are much higher. Do you have a shot from the back?
Quote from: Scooter on April 18, 2020, 08:28:46 PM
^^^ Yup.. yours are much higher. Do you have a shot from the back?
Can't find anything.... will try & get a shot in the near future
Looking at your last picture post. Looks like the engine/trans combo is leaning down to the right. What type of motor mounts are you running ? Looks to be the problem as well as you stated that the torsion bars are adjusted down. That was the point about ride height.
Quote from: Scooter on April 18, 2020, 08:39:27 PM
Thinking of replicating this setup Topcat has, with an X pipe.
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/dlattach/topic=11155.0;attach=97975;image)
Cant easily go wrong with that type of ground clearance.
Go for it! You'll love it.
Best way to describe it's sound...
Floats like a Butterfly, Stings like a Bee.
Quote from: Topcat on April 18, 2020, 09:08:45 PM
Best way to describe it's sound...
Floats like a Butterfly, Stings like a Bee.
The hemi might have something to do with it...
Quote from: MoparLeo on April 18, 2020, 08:51:23 PM
Looking at your last picture post. Looks like the engine/trans combo is leaning down to the right. What type of motor mounts are you running ? Looks to be the problem as well as you stated that the torsion bars are adjusted down. That was the point about ride height.
Believe it's just an optical illusion because the passenger side header tube hangs soo low. But I see what you are talking about, that looks like one mean lean at a glance. Motor mounts are poly-locks.
I see what you mean but I was looking at the angle of what looks like the trans pan. Actually having the car on a rack gives you a very good horizontal perspective of what is parallel. Have you put a level across the valve covers or carb opening ?
Took a few underside pictures of my car this morning, small block, TTI full length headers, TTI 2.5" exhaust with TTI 6 degrees header adapters. Hope this help.
Question, How close to the floor or anything should the exhaust be? Taking my car today to a guy to talk about all new.
Thanks
How close to the floor where ? Depends on whether the floor is undercoated with the tar type stuff or with a bed liner type of material. Or just straight paint Type of insulation or sound deadener used under the carpet. Lots of variables.They generate a lot of heat so act accordingly. :thinking:
Quote from: 7212Mopar on April 19, 2020, 11:19:26 AM
Took a few underside pictures of my car this morning, small block, TTI full length headers, TTI 2.5" exhaust with TTI 6 degrees header adapters. Hope this help.
Extremely helpful, thank so much for taking the time to do so! :bigthumb: Going to get out and take some more measurements today.
A skid plate added to the K member may offer some relief on exhaust hitting.
If you modified it making sit even lower; might be an idea to consider as well.
https://www.doctordiff.com/reproduction-skid-plate.html
Quote from: Topcat on April 19, 2020, 05:15:16 PM
A skid plate added to the K member may offer some relief on exhaust hitting.
If you modified it making sit even lower; might be an idea to consider as well.
https://www.doctordiff.com/reproduction-skid-plate.html
Not planning on going any lower... lol.
Just noticed you are in Fremont, was in your neck of the woods today. Saw a nice orange 72 Challenger cruising up Stevenson. :)
:alan2cents: double check the engine/transmission angle (IIRC it should be 1-3 deg down from horizontal). This can affect the header to ground clearance.
Quick update, just ordered a new 2.5 inch exhaust setup from TTI. Ceramic coated and polished Shorty headers. Header adapters, drivers side with O2 bung installed. X-pipe. Pair of Dynomax mufflers, existing mufflers have offset intake and outlet. These should have the correct offset intake and center outlet allowing me to use the stock hangers. They were too inexpensive when bought with the kit to pass on. I have a set on my big block Fairlane and they are almost too quiet. Good chance I'll get something with a bit more aggressive note later like the Pypes mufflers currently installed. Also ordered a pair of muffler eliminator pipes. If the new setup does not get me enough ground clearance I'll put a new set of mufflers in the stock location up next to the fuel tank. Only thing I did not order from TTI are the exhaust tips. Hoping to be able to use my existing set. Boxes should start showing up on my doorstep in a few weeks. Hoping the Hooker long tubes in the car do not fight me too much coming out. I'd like to be able to donate them and the rest of the stainless exhaust... but not so much I won't chop them into pieces if they fight me. Will post up some photos when it arrives and install.
I too bought the Dynomax mufflers with my TTi exhaust system. I don't really like the way they sound on Youtube clips I've listened too but they were pretty cheap so I thought I'd at least try them. I've got a pair of Flowmaster 40s and a pair of Magnaflows to try as well. The Flowmasters were on another project of mine that I abandoned and the Magnaflows are a used set I picked up on Facebook.(they are only supposed to have a few hundred miles on them) The Dynomaxes will be tested first, followed by the Magnaflows and finally the Flowmasters. I'm 90% sure I want the Flowmasters so those will be tested last. I'm planning on using those "band style" clamps to make muffler changes easy. If you are unsure of the Dynomaxes, I'd recommend the band clamps so you can get the system apart easily in the future.
Check out CA loud exhaust law amendment last year I think. Ticket is now a $1k fine that needs to be paid first and then need correction. So might be best to get a system that is more sensitive to throttle positions.
I have the TTI long tube and their 2.5" X pipe and It came with Dynomax turbo mufflers. They are on the loud side during warm up. After that it mellows down but gets loud when open up. I never tested the sound level and got cops followed me for over a mile a few times but did not get pull over.
Mangnaflow straight flow design will perform better than the old turbo muffler design. I have it on my 2012 but it has resonators just like the factory. Quiet until open up.
Also shorty might sound different than long tubes. Packed mufflers get louder after use on the car for awhile.
The Pypes Street Pro mufflers on the car right now sound pretty lopey at startup, idle and on acceleration. But have surprisingly little drone at highway speeds. Have not had any issues with local coppers following me about town. Current setup is far less noisy than a Harley. I did request T-Bolt style clamps.. solid recommendation. :bigthumb:
TTI fairy left a package on my porch today!
[pdf]https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1138&d=1588795996[/pdf]
&
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1139&d=1588819996)
Just waiting for the new Poly lock motor mounts and Hotchkis Sport Leaf Spring Kit to arrive and old yellow is going up on the jack-stands. If I get the ground clearance I need I'm pretty much set. Depending on the exhaust note of the Dynomax Turbo mufflers that I purchased with the TTI kit( I have a set on my BB Ford and they are pretty mild), I might get a slightly more aggressive muffler. If the mufflers are still scraping, I'll install the muffler eliminators and get a set of straight through mufflers to be installed just prior to the tailpipes in the factory position. The new leafs should get me about an inch more ground clearance so I'm thinking I should be good.
:D
Got up under for some motor mount action today... passenger side was toast.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1167&d=1589086174)
Compared to new unit:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1168&d=1589086218)
Bad news was the "New" poly locks from PST did not fit. The saddle width was not wide enough and they would not settle on the frame mount. Ended up putting a stock rubber mount on the passenger side. Might keep this configuration as the driver side is still a locker and the vibration in the passenger compartment is much reduced.
Hope the new leaf springs show this week. If they get here it's headers, exhaust and leafs next weekend.
Compare the bolt hole locations with the stock mount if they are the same. If the mount can sit on the k frame, see if the bolt holes align. I had problem with the Macinni Magum mounts before. The holes were off.
Quote from: 7212Mopar on May 09, 2020, 10:18:27 PM
Compare the bolt hole locations with the stock mount if they are the same. If the mount can sit on the k frame, see if the bolt holes align. I had problem with the Macinni Magum mounts before. The holes were off.
The issue is the mount would not sit on the K-frame. The distance from the alignment pin at the center to the bend at the k-mount was too short. Neither of the mounts would sit down. I wrestled with the passenger side ofr a few hours before disconnecting it from the block side mount and trying the obvious. My bad there but geesus.. how do these things make it off the assembly line? :pullinghair:
For the passenger side, you can just use any stock replacement mount because it sees only compression from the engine torque. The driver side is the one that will fails. Some members had success with the Mancini racing magnum mounts. It did not work for me. Alternately, you should be able to use standard rubber replacement mount and then add the Schumacher torque strap kit. Others said they just use a chain but that is kind of too raw for me. I ended up using Mity mount. It had some fitment issue too that needed to add some metal plate shims. It has been on for a year and no issue so far. It is an interlocking design similar to the Schumacher mounts.
If I have to do it all over again. I will just get a good quality factory replacement rubber mounts (Call Dave at Roseville). Then I will add the Schumacher torque strap kit and call it a day. It is a lot cheaper than Schumacher mounts that their website kept saying out of stock.
https://www.manciniracing.com/search-results.html?catalog=chucker54&query=engine+mounts&Submit=Search
http://mitymounts.com/
http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/70.74eBody.html
^^ Plan for now is to leave it as she sits with the rubber passenger mount. The driver side poly lock looks good and I'll see if I can get a refund for the PST defects. Here is a few dimensional photos of what I wrestled against yesterday.
New mount:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1180&d=1589134589)
vs.
Old mount:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1181&d=1589134666)
:thumbdown:
I pinned the mounts on my Fairlane similar to the mitymounts, works pretty well to minimize the amount of vibration transferred. Schumacher's site has been out of stock of most items I've been shopping for nearly every time I've visited.
I have the Dynomax Super Turbos on my TTI 3" X pipe exhaust with 1-7/8" TTI headers. I love the sound. Very throaty but not too loud and no drone on the highway. When I want loud, I just open up my electric cut-outs. :banana:
Alrighty.. circling back now that the hood hinges have been replaced and the new leaf springs are on. I'm going to try to install the new TTI shorty's and exhaust this weekend. Quick question on the TTI install. The stock 360 heads have studs holding the current longtube headers at the font most and rear on both sides. Any real need to remove these studs and replace with the bolts provided by TTI?
Keep the studs if in good shape with stock iron heads. It gets into the water jacket. Not a bad idea to replace with new studs. They get corroded.
Hello Scooter... here's some recent experience I've had.. similar to your issues./
I've used Hooker 5115s headers... yes, a bit low, but my suspension is very stiff.. so to avoid diving (AX HSAX, HPDE)... and driven on the local roadways as well. They've hit/bottomed at some bad roads... but not that bad.... had them on my car since 1985. I've been using Flowmasters since that same time, dumped in front of my differential.
Fast forward to now.. 2020.. new SB engine, engine bay all redone.. very nice! But, I'm going to reuse my old Hookers (discovering the need to work over the raised beaded sealing areas of the long gasket/head flange for better sealing.... Hooker should fix this on their design.
i intend to get a new set of TTis 'cause of the visual better ground clearance... every fraction of an inch matters!... perhaps in another 1-2 years from now.... along with new Flowmasters that i already have.
Those Schumacher motor mounts are a problem... I wanted something stiffer without going solid... because I'm using a Milodon Touring road race oil pan... and that was a hassle to fit inside the K-frame... requiring some minor cutting at the steering box area and the passenger motor mount area... and with unbelievable flex of rubber motor mounts... I didn't want the engine shifting in any way that would allow the new Milodon oil pan to hit the k-frame. I discovered the fit was not correct of the Shcumacher mounts due to the dowel pin hitting the k-framed inner tube where the long bolt passes through... required filing that dowel down nearly 50% from its original size/shape.... done to my satisfaction.
NOTE: I'm not sure, but Schumacher may be going out-of-business... they are not supplying Mancini or anyone else for many many past months.. almost 6-9 or more months.. as I was told by Mancini. I wanted to purchase the Schumacher Torque strap.. been waiting for about 9+ months... Manicini told me they will start making their own brand... when???? so, I went back to my old reliable taped chain that I've used for about 30+ years.
I'd recommend some bigger torsion bars and stiffer shocks to prevent diving/hitting the ground, but maybe your new TTis will be much better....
Send/post pics ... I'm interested in the ground clearance.
MoPower to ya!
If the studs at each end of the heads are still good and not leaking, leave them be. The only reason to remove them and install bolts is if you can't physically install the headers with them in place.
I just put the exact same system on a 1971 Challenger 440. The Tips I used were the stainless steel ones from PG Classics, they look the best in my opinion. I order the 2.5" ones but they are the same size as the pipe. So off the the exhaust place with a pipe and the tips to have them expanded just a bit to fit snug over the pipe. Also you'll need to shorten the pipe by about 3"
Of course, I just mentioned this incase you can't get your existing tips to work :D
Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on July 23, 2020, 10:45:23 AM
Hello Scooter... here's some recent experience I've had.. similar to your issues./
I've used Hooker 5115s headers... yes, a bit low, but my suspension is very stiff.. so to avoid diving (AX HSAX, HPDE)... and driven on the local roadways as well. They've hit/bottomed at some bad roads... but not that bad.... had them on my car since 1985. I've been using Flowmasters since that same time, dumped in front of my differential.
Fast forward to now.. 2020.. new SB engine, engine bay all redone.. very nice! But, I'm going to reuse my old Hookers (discovering the need to work over the raised beaded sealing areas of the long gasket/head flange for better sealing.... Hooker should fix this on their design.
i intend to get a new set of TTis 'cause of the visual better ground clearance... every fraction of an inch matters!... perhaps in another 1-2 years from now.... along with new Flowmasters that i already have.
Those Schumacher motor mounts are a problem... I wanted something stiffer without going solid... because I'm using a Milodon Touring road race oil pan... and that was a hassle to fit inside the K-frame... requiring some minor cutting at the steering box area and the passenger motor mount area... and with unbelievable flex of rubber motor mounts... I didn't want the engine shifting in any way that would allow the new Milodon oil pan to hit the k-frame. I discovered the fit was not correct of the Shcumacher mounts due to the dowel pin hitting the k-framed inner tube where the long bolt passes through... required filing that dowel down nearly 50% from its original size/shape.... done to my satisfaction.
NOTE: I'm not sure, but Schumacher may be going out-of-business... they are not supplying Mancini or anyone else for many many past months.. almost 6-9 or more months.. as I was told by Mancini. I wanted to purchase the Schumacher Torque strap.. been waiting for about 9+ months... Manicini told me they will start making their own brand... when???? so, I went back to my old reliable taped chain that I've used for about 30+ years.
I'd recommend some bigger torsion bars and stiffer shocks to prevent diving/hitting the ground, but maybe your new TTis will be much better....
Send/post pics ... I'm interested in the ground clearance.
MoPower to ya!
Thanks for the input Mitch.
I have a NOS set of motor mounts and will be shelving the Schumachers with this header swap. I will keep the poly lock mount on the driver side as it's in serviceable condition still. I believe you are correct they are going out of business or already are.
Just installed a set of Hotchkikis leafs and lost another inch of ground clearance so I'll be scrambling to get all the clearance I am able as well. Took it out for a spin yesterday and the ride is much improved.. less dump truck like.
Planned ahead and if the mufflers are the new low spot with the TTI setup and I'm bottoming out, I ordered the muffler eliminator tubes and will relocate the mufflers to the OEM position up next to the fuel tank.
Will update with photos when able... on the hunt to borrow a cherry picker for this weekend.
I've got the Hooker 5115 and the clearance wasn't bad. but I took another route to get even more clearance. I lifted the engine in the bay and then lowered the car around it. Engine only weighs 500#. Car weighs 3000. I'm around 4.25" at the lowest spot on the collectors.
Laid hands on a cherry picker yesterday for the motor mount replacing so I'm green light go for new header install this weekend. Probably start taking the current Pypes setup off tonight. If the current Hooker Longtubes don't want to cooperate, I'm cutting them out with a sawzall... ;)
Install update, the New TTI Shorty's and complete exhaust is slung. Everything but the tailpipe tips are on the car. I short ordered 2 clamps because I did not purchase the tips from TTI. Looking to use the Pypes tips that were on the car.
First things first, I removed the Mancini passenger side motor mount bracket and replaced with OEM part... amazing how easy that is with no exhaust in the way. Installed a new rubber mount as well.
Mancini mount bracket:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1564&d=1595959264)
OEM mount bracket:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1565&d=1595959404)
^^ Really nothing to add there... the OEM bracket just fits.
For reference here is a shot of the mount brackets side by side... Mancini on left. I did cut the stud on the new mount down so I could slip a ratcheting box end over it and tighten the nut installed:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1566&d=1595959508)
Cut mount stud:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1568&d=1595960228)
Visually the parts are identical. Was on time crunch so I did not take detailed measurements.
Left the driver side as is, the Mancini and poly lock fit well on that side and are in good condition.
New Header stuff in next post.. need to upload some photos.
Video of new exhaust... excuse belt noise.. on my fix it list already.
The old Hooker longtubes fought me coming out... I was trying to save to donate but in the end they came out in pieces.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1562&d=1595958982)
Installation note. I did have to flip the shift linkage to above the shifter arm to eliminate interference with the header adapter tube. I thought this was just for the TTI longtubes but appears to be the case for the shortys too. Rubs a lil on the speedo cable.. but I'll get a clamp on that and move it away form the linkage.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1572&d=1595976738)
Drivers side Before:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1555&d=1595958065)
Drivers side after:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1557&d=1595958385)
Passenger side before:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1559&d=1595958501)
Passenger side after:
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1560&d=1595958588)
Will get some underside photos up next.
Underside photos.
One thing I noticed was the X pipe has a bit of a downward turn at the inlet on the passenger side. Not sure if this is by design or not but it causes the passenger side to be about an inch lower than the driver side.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1574&d=1595980540)
Side, the mufflers are really tucked up there well now. The edge of the hanger is actually the lowest point now.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1575&d=1595980630)
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1576&d=1595980666)
Back, waiting for band clamps to install tips. Ordered last night.
(https://www.thelightninground.com/filedata/fetch?id=1577&d=1595980753)
Pretty happy with the results. The new Hotchiks leafs lowered the rear about an inch, but with the mufflers tucked up nicely now it's a non-issue. Ordered a set of QA1 TS901 Stocker Star Single Adjustable shocks for the rear to compliment the new leafs. Only issue I need to contend with now is tire clearance in the wheelwell.. pretty tight on passenger side. Might be fixable with new rims.. better backspacing?
"Installation note. I did have to flip the shift linkage to above the shifter arm to eliminate interference with the header adapter tube."
Question: How does the shift linkage arm get turned over? Isn't it a fixed/solid item... that it cannot be taken apart? I'm having some interference with it at the collect flange, but its OK... but i don't like the slight interference.
Also, i see your vertical shifter rod is flush at the bottom bracket... is that OK? Shouldn't it have some further extension beyond the bracket, say.... maybe another 1/2" to 1" ?
Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on July 29, 2020, 12:36:28 PM
"Installation note. I did have to flip the shift linkage to above the shifter arm to eliminate interference with the header adapter tube."
Question: How does the shift linkage arm get turned over? Isn't it a fixed/solid item... that it cannot be taken apart? I'm having some interference with it at the collect flange, but its OK... but i don't like the slight interference.
Also, i see your vertical shifter rod is flush at the bottom bracket... is that OK? Shouldn't it have some further extension beyond the bracket, say.... maybe another 1/2" to 1" ?
It's not actually the linkage that gets flipped.. just the adjuster with the pin shown in the photo. Usually the pin is on the top, flipping that part so the pin is on the bottom gains the clearance.
On the shifter rod being flush, I've seen it flush and extending a bit through. Might have something to do with the rear transmission mount, I'm getting set to replace mine and will let you know if it brings the tranny up a bit.