Will watch this one with the good and bad info. I plan on installing one on a Falcon in about a month.
:popcorn:
Very easy install... Stock kick down linkage & cable....Used a Holley throttle linkage adapter pt # 20-7, had to grind it for clearance but it works fine... I didn't use & wouldn't suggest using the fuel command center.... I used a Tanks Inc EFI fuel tank...
I use two new 3/8" pre-bent steel fuel lines one as supply & one as return... I should get the car up in the air & take some photos....
I think it or the Holley are pretty good. I installed a Fitech last year with no issues once we got rid of the camshaft that was in it.
Regulator is built into the FiTech unit.. Filter is back by the fuel tank... I cut both ends off both lines & added fittings & hose to connect from the tank mounted pump to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter to the steel line going forward, from the steel line going forward to the FiTech unit, and so on....
I used compression fittings to attach to the steel lines, the compression fitting have a 45 degree flare on the other end... From that I used 45 flare to push lok, some are straight, I've got a couple 180's at the fuel filter, I've got a couple 90's at the FiTech, I've got a couple 45's ate the tank/pump.....I used right at 10" of high pressure fuel rated black push lok hose....
The fuel filter is mounted to the rear shock crossmember, in a steel bracket that it snaps into....
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 20, 2017, 04:46:07 PM
I think it or the Holley are pretty good. I installed a Fitech last year with no issues once we got rid of the camshaft that was in it.
What were the issues with the camshaft?
I made a quote on the Summit web site to buy this Fitech Go EFI 600HP, fuel tank, fuel pump and sending unit from Tanks Inc, $230 for the shipping, if I add 2 right stuff fuel lines, $490. :o
Wow, I have to find another solution for this fuel lines. I don't like but maybe install PTFE hoses.
Quote from: chal340 on May 22, 2017, 10:06:36 AM
I made a quote on the Summit web site to buy this Fitech Go EFI 600HP, fuel tank, fuel pump and sending unit from Tanks Inc, $230 for the shipping, if I add 2 right stuff fuel lines, $490. :o
Wow, I have to find another solution for this fuel lines. I don't like but maybe install PTFE hoses.
Shipping is more than the parts.... https://www.ebay.com/p/70-74-DODGE-CHALLENGER-3-8-TANK-TO-PUMP-FUEL-LINE/1730002721 Free shipping, but I'm betting not to France..... Need to organize a group deal to fill a crate..... 1m x1.2m x 1.2m
Quote from: chal340 on May 22, 2017, 10:06:36 AM
I made a quote on the Summit web site to buy this Fitech Go EFI 600HP, fuel tank, fuel pump and sending unit from Tanks Inc, $230 for the shipping, if I add 2 right stuff fuel lines, $490. :o
Wow, I have to find another solution for this fuel lines. I don't like but maybe install PTFE hoses.
Buy 2 pre-bent 3/8 diameter steel lines and install them side by side in factory location.
:pixiepop: good stuff
Quote from: YellowThumper on May 22, 2017, 03:49:09 PM
Quote from: chal340 on May 22, 2017, 10:06:36 AM
I made a quote on the Summit web site to buy this Fitech Go EFI 600HP, fuel tank, fuel pump and sending unit from Tanks Inc, $230 for the shipping, if I add 2 right stuff fuel lines, $490. :o
Wow, I have to find another solution for this fuel lines. I don't like but maybe install PTFE hoses.
Buy 2 pre-bent 3/8 diameter steel lines and install them side by side in factory location.
Yes, I would like, but $260 for the shipping!! I'm going to see with Dixies restoration and ask a quote.
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 21, 2017, 07:15:25 AM
Regulator is built into the FiTech unit.. Filter is back by the fuel tank... I cut both ends off both lines & added fittings & hose to connect from the tank mounted pump to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter to the steel line going forward, from the steel line going forward to the FiTech unit, and so on....
I used compression fittings to attach to the steel lines, the compression fitting have a 45 degree flare on the other end... From that I used 45 flare to push lok, some are straight, I've got a couple 180's at the fuel filter, I've got a couple 90's at the FiTech, I've got a couple 45's ate the tank/pump.....I used right at 10" of high pressure fuel rated black push lok hose....
The fuel filter is mounted to the rear shock crossmember, in a steel bracket that it snaps into....
@1 Wild R/T (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/1-wild-rt_320), I didn't find those kind of fitiings at Summit, compression fittings with 45 degre flare, do you have a # please.
And if you have some pics of your installation. :thankyou:
Apparently even though they are compression fittings they aren't called compression fittings, they are called "Tube adapter fittings... Just gotta keep it fun..
https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/fittings-hoses/section/fittings-plugs/brand/summit-racing/part-type/tube-adapter-fittings?N=4294951003%2B4294951002%2B400304%2B4294552892&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
Be careful on ordering hose, the first hose I ordered when it arrived said it wasn't suitable for fuel... The on line catalog forgot to mention that little detail.... What do you think most car builders are gonna use 3/8 push lock hose for?
Ok, pictures, in the engine compartment where the lines turn up along the firewall, because they pass next to the flange on the frame rail I put a length of heater hose over the lines & used a hose clamp around the heater hose and a little tabbed bracket that is screwed to the frame in a hole that was already there...
The picture that shows lines or either side of the shock crossmember, at first I tried running both like stock, behind the crossmember but things wouldn't fit very well...
Fuel filter, I used 180 degree fittings at each end to gain room...
Shipping is the killer, isn't there a Mopar parts retailer over in I'm thinking Sweden? Might be worth checking...
Interesting setup. I'm working out what I want to do for fuel supply and return for EFI now as well.
Unless I am missing something (which is entirely possible :D ); why bother with converting to and from steel lines? Seems like it would be easier to just run it in stainless braided hose or similar fuel injection style hose. I'm looking at running this stuff (had good luck with it in the past on Jeeps): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985
I prefer not to have the bulk of a hose running the length of the car, the pre-bent lines snap into the original clips, follow the under body contours & generally just fit like an OE installation....
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 23, 2017, 10:25:20 AM
Shipping is the killer, isn't there a Mopar parts retailer over in I'm thinking Sweden? Might be worth checking...
In europe, UK, Germany, there are some retailers, but price are very expensive. In fact they include taxes and shipping in their price.
For example, I bought 2 wheel vintiques steel $106 each at summit, €190 ($210 ) in Germany without shipping to France.
Hello guys,
I ordered the FITECH EFI and I'm going to receive all at the end of the next week I think. :veryexcited: :veryexcited:
For the moment, I check Fitech instruction manual and I have a question :
Where there is a constant 12v?
In the instruction manual, they said that the White wire must be ON during both "Key On" and "Cranking."
@1 Wild R/T (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/1-wild-rt_320), where did you take this 12v?
Ignition 2, run position, there is not 12V when you turn the key to start, there is around 7.5 V.
Thank you
I'm using the connection that was originally supposed to power the idle solenoid on the right side of the carburetor..... Works perfectly....
Argh, I don't have this solenoid. I'm going to check the wiring diagrams.
I took mine off the side of the ballast regulator that is hot both key on and key start position.
:iagree:
There is not one wire that does both , at the ballast you will have a Blue wire 12v run & a brown wire 12v cranking , you need to tie both together & connect them to the FI system
For my MS3Pro, I did exactly that - have the ballast blue and brown wires trigger a relay which provides 12V to the ECU.
If I tie dark blue and brown wires, there will have always full voltage at the (+) coil, it's not an issue, coil is going to overheat, no?
Quote from: chal340 on August 20, 2017, 01:14:51 AM
If I tie dark blue and brown wires, there will have always full voltage at the (+) coil, it's not an issue, coil is going to overheat, no?
I just got a Holley Sniper setup that I am planning on starting the install this coming weekend, needs the same wire.
I plan to run a diode on the brown wire to stop the issue you mentioned.
The other area I want to check is the ACC port on the fuse block under the dash. Not sure when that is powered but a meter will tell me unless someone knows.
Ok, let me know your solution please.
I have this video that show how to wiring the Fitech. And thez sais that is ok if voltage drops while cranking.
And this, is exactly what Runcharger and 1 Wild R/T did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmtWuAMbcjk&t=53s
You can run the FI from the brown & blue wires & still run the coil from the other sside of the ballast or use a diode between the coil to stop the 12v feed as suggested
Quote from: rhamson on May 22, 2017, 05:16:02 AM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 20, 2017, 04:46:07 PM
I think it or the Holley are pretty good. I installed a Fitech last year with no issues once we got rid of the camshaft that was in it.
What were the issues with the camshaft?
I was wondering that also? :popcorn:
If you want a good clean feed, use a relay to provide power directly to the box from the battery. Trigger the relay from both the brown and blue wires so it's always triggered. I'm assuming that you are not using the ballast resistor any more.
I don't see why....again if you are not using the ballast resistor. I power my ignition this way to avoid all the voltage drop in the wiring
I think ballast resistor systems are the worst curse ever put on the automotive hobby. :thumbdown: :D
But, if you have one, then you have one and I think you will need to use a diode to prevent the blue wire from feeding directly to the coil in the run position. I have not tried to draw a diagram as to how to do that.
I guess one could use two relays, but that seems overly complicated.
What do you think about this?
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 10:49:04 AM
What do you think about this?
Should work perfectly...
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 12:51:16 AM
@RCman (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/rcman_399) ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks
I did not, ran into an issue getting the plug out of the water pump housing (that's been there for 40 years) which has spiraled into me buying more parts. :haha:
I did get it on the car but not wired yet.
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 10:49:04 AM
What do you think about this?
That's exactly what I am planning on doing at the ballast side. This is the diode I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-19116975
I am still running points for now. The plan is to get it running and then this winter swap over the ignition stuff. I'm trying not to create to many "well it could be this" kind of situations if I run into issues getting the EFI going; so trying to keep as much the same for now as possible.
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 10:49:04 AM
What do you think about this?
Sorry, I missed your post, but 1 Wild R/T is right...that is the way I would do it.
Quote from: RCman on August 28, 2017, 12:01:22 PM
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 12:51:16 AM
@RCman (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/rcman_399) ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks
I did not, ran into an issue getting the plug out of the water pump housing (that's been there for 40 years) which has spiraled into me buying more parts. :haha:
I did get it on the car but not wired yet.
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 10:49:04 AM
What do you think about this?
That's exactly what I am planning on doing at the ballast side. This is the diode I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-19116975
I am still running points for now. The plan is to get it running and then this winter swap over the ignition stuff. I'm trying not to create to many "well it could be this" kind of situations if I run into issues getting the EFI going; so trying to keep as much the same for now as possible.
Follow up on this; I got it running using the method above (minus the relay I didn't use that) with the diode I linked.
Works well.
Likely the cam dropped the idle vacuum too much which creates havok with the MAP sensor , most EFI systems use relatively mild cams , the system I set up stayed open loop witha set program until 1500 rpm where the system went to closed loop & used all the sensors , this worked perfectly even with a .680 lift roller cam
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 12, 2017, 09:34:52 AM
Likely the cam dropped the idle vacuum too much which creates havok with the MAP sensor , most EFI systems use relatively mild cams , the system I set up stayed open loop witha set program until 1500 rpm where the system went to closed loop & used all the sensors , this worked perfectly even with a .680 lift roller cam
I contacted FITech and gave them my cam specs. and they said my cam would work with my 110 LS. They estimated it would produce around 7-10in. of vacuum and would do okay on their cam4 program. They said they have had success with cams that produce as little as 5 in. of vacuum but they admitted that more tuning was required and that self learning can do only so much.
I just used a diode across the ballast with no relay.
The FiTech input is just a logic trigger with no current draw.
Quote from: RCman on September 11, 2017, 06:29:27 PM
Quote from: RCman on August 28, 2017, 12:01:22 PM
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 12:51:16 AM
@RCman (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/rcman_399) ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks
I did not, ran into an issue getting the plug out of the water pump housing (that's been there for 40 years) which has spiraled into me buying more parts. :haha:
I did get it on the car but not wired yet.
Quote from: chal340 on August 28, 2017, 10:49:04 AM
What do you think about this?
That's exactly what I am planning on doing at the ballast side. This is the diode I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-19116975
I am still running points for now. The plan is to get it running and then this winter swap over the ignition stuff. I'm trying not to create to many "well it could be this" kind of situations if I run into issues getting the EFI going; so trying to keep as much the same for now as possible.
Follow up on this; I got it running using the method above (minus the relay I didn't use that) with the diode I linked.
Works well.
RCman, I am having difficulties understanding the diagram with the diode and the Fitech wiring schematic on page 2 of this post. The diode diagram shows a relay for the battery feed but you did it without. Are you connecting the diode out to the white wire or the blue wire of the 6 pin connector shown in the Fitech wiring schematic? I am terrible with electrical wiring.
I can't speak to the FiTech but if it uses the same single wire setup that the Holley Sniper uses the Diode goes on the brown wire (on the car) and is oriented so that electricity can't flow back on the wire but can flow from the brown to the blue & EFI connection (whatever color that is, Holley EFI is pink).
Attached is a photo of the little simple 'harness' I made up. You can see the blue wire gets split at the factory connection one goes to the open spade terminal (which connects to the EFI switched power) and the other to the ballast resistor. The brown wire from the bottom (black in my case) also gets split and one goes to the ballast to function like normal. The other side of the split from the brown runs to the diode and then to the EFI connection. However the diode is positioned so that the electricity can't flow from that EFI connection back down the brown and thus stopping bypassing of the ballast resistor and backfeeding that circuit.
Did that help?
Thanks RCman. I am thinking then it probably should go to the white switch wire shown in the Fitech diagram on page 2 of the post.
I have a brand new Quick Fuel carb to used to restart the engine when ready and I don't have EFI yet. I am looking and want to understand especially wiring before committing. I spoke with a few owners in car shows and all of them love the EFI system.
Tagging for reference..
Interest in this as well for another project looming.
My :alan2cents::
I have the Fitech GoStreet that's rated up to 400HP fed by a Tank Inc internal pump for my stock 340, along with a MSD 6AL box. After 500 miles, all good so far.
At the risk of repeating myself from earlier posts, make sure you have a thermostat rated for 180 degrees F or higher as the FITech self-learning feature doesn't start working until the coolant temp exceeds 170.
The FiTech unit also needs to prime by running the fuel pump for several seconds (key "on") before you hit "start". If you stall a manual, those extra seconds will add to the wonderful public shaming that goes with it.
On my 340, I ended buying a pigtail to extend the FiTech coolant temp sensor wiring so I could thread the sensor into one of the holes normally used for a block drain plug. The stock a/c compressor got in the way of any connections around the thermostat housing that would've made for a simpler wiring run.
With FiTech, or any other add-on EFI system for that matter, give some serious thought to adding a inertia switch that shuts the fuel pump off if your car gets in an accident so you don't end up pumping fuel into a bad situation. There is also a safety switch available that replaces the oil pressure sending unit which can be used to shut off the fuel pump off based on low oil pressure (other than when the engine is cranking) as a way to detect an engine shutdown. The oil pressure switch can't be used with FiTech because of the priming cycle mentioned above. The FiTech unit will cut off the fuel pump if the engine stops as long as the FiTech fuel pump signal wire is used to trigger the fuel pump relay. I have the inertia switch in-line with the fuel pump signal wire. I also have a little jumper to bypass the inertia switch in case it started tripping unnecessarily - no problem with that so far.
Ok. This was more like a quarter's worth of commentary but hopefully it will help someone avoid the little rocks I tripped over.