EFI Fitech

[chal340]

Thank you @1 Wild R/T.
I put them on my wishlist. These adapters and the push lok.
About the steel fuel line, I sent an email to Dixies restoration for a quote.
On bay, I found these steel lines with only $100 for the shipping and import charges. 

[1 Wild R/T]

Shipping is the killer, isn't there a Mopar parts retailer over in I'm thinking Sweden?  Might be worth checking...

[RCman]

Interesting setup. I'm working out what I want to do for fuel supply and return for EFI now as well.
Unless I am missing something (which is entirely possible  ); why bother with converting to and from steel lines? Seems like it would be easier to just run it in stainless braided hose or similar fuel injection style hose. I'm looking at running this stuff (had good luck with it in the past on Jeeps): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985

[1 Wild R/T]

I prefer not to have the bulk of a hose running the length of the car, the pre-bent lines snap into the original clips, follow the under body contours & generally just fit like an OE installation....

[chal340]

Shipping is the killer, isn't there a Mopar parts retailer over in I'm thinking Sweden?  Might be worth checking...

In europe, UK, Germany, there are some retailers, but price are very expensive. In fact they include taxes and shipping in their price.
For example, I bought 2 wheel vintiques steel $106 each at summit, €190 ($210 ) in Germany without shipping to France.

[chal340]

Hello guys,

I ordered the FITECH EFI and I'm going to receive all at the end of the next week I think.
For the moment, I check Fitech instruction manual and I have a question :

Where there is a constant 12v?
In the instruction manual, they said that the White wire must be ON during both "Key On" and "Cranking."

@1 Wild R/T, where did you take this 12v?
Ignition 2, run position, there is not 12V when you turn the key to start, there is around 7.5 V.

Thank you

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm using the connection that was originally supposed to power the idle solenoid on the right side of the carburetor.....  Works perfectly....

[chal340]

Argh, I don't have this solenoid. I'm going to check the wiring diagrams.

[RUNCHARGER]

I took mine off the side of the ballast regulator that is hot both key on and key start position.

[Chryco Psycho]

 
There is not one wire that does both , at the ballast you will have a Blue wire 12v run & a brown wire 12v cranking , you need to tie both together & connect them to the FI system

[shawge]

For my MS3Pro, I did exactly that - have the ballast blue and brown wires trigger a relay which provides 12V to the ECU.

[chal340]

If I tie dark blue and brown wires, there will have always full voltage at the (+) coil, it's not an issue, coil is going to overheat, no?

[RCman]

If I tie dark blue and brown wires, there will have always full voltage at the (+) coil, it's not an issue, coil is going to overheat, no?

I just got a Holley Sniper setup that I am planning on starting the install this coming weekend, needs the same wire.

I plan to run a diode on the brown wire to stop the issue you mentioned.
The other area I want to check is the ACC port on the fuse block under the dash. Not sure when that is powered but a meter will tell me unless someone knows.

[chal340]

Ok, let me know your solution please.

I have this video that show how to wiring the Fitech. And thez sais that is ok if voltage drops while cranking.
And this, is exactly what Runcharger and 1 Wild R/T did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmtWuAMbcjk&t=53s

[Chryco Psycho]

You can run the FI from the brown & blue wires & still run the coil from the other sside of the ballast or use a diode between the coil to stop the 12v feed as suggested