EFI Fitech

[chal340]

@RCman ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks

[Brads70]

I think it or the Holley are pretty good. I installed a Fitech last year with no issues once we got rid of the camshaft that was in it.

What were the issues with the camshaft?

I was wondering that also? 

[Strawdawg]

If you want a good clean feed, use a relay to provide power directly to the box from the battery.  Trigger the relay from both the brown and blue wires so it's always triggered.  I'm assuming that you are not using the ballast resistor any more.

[chal340]

@Strawdawg
ok but I have to put a diode on the Brown wire?

[Strawdawg]

I don't see why....again if you are not using the ballast resistor.  I power my ignition this way to avoid all the voltage drop in the wiring

[chal340]

@Strawdawg
I have a ballast resistor with MSD Blaster 2 coil and Rev n Nator ECU.
So If I Tie these 2 wires, bleue and Brown, I will have always 12V at the + of the coil, not only at the cranking.

[Strawdawg]

I think ballast resistor systems are the worst curse ever put on the automotive hobby. 

But, if you have one, then you have one and I think you will need to use a diode to prevent the blue wire from feeding directly to the coil in the run position.  I have not tried to draw a diagram as to how to do that.

I guess one could use two relays, but that seems overly complicated.

[chal340]

What do you think about this?

[1 Wild R/T]

What do you think about this?

Should work perfectly...

[RCman]

@RCman ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks

I did not, ran into an issue getting the plug out of the water pump housing (that's been there for 40 years) which has spiraled into me buying more parts. 
I did get it on the car but not wired yet.

What do you think about this?

That's exactly what I am planning on doing at the ballast side. This is the diode I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-19116975

I am still running points for now. The plan is to get it running and then this winter swap over the ignition stuff. I'm trying not to create to many "well it could be this" kind of situations if I run into issues getting the EFI going; so trying to keep as much the same for now as possible.

[Strawdawg]

What do you think about this?

Sorry, I missed your post, but 1 Wild R/T is right...that is the way I would do it.

[RCman]

@RCman ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks

I did not, ran into an issue getting the plug out of the water pump housing (that's been there for 40 years) which has spiraled into me buying more parts. 
I did get it on the car but not wired yet.

What do you think about this?

That's exactly what I am planning on doing at the ballast side. This is the diode I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-19116975

I am still running points for now. The plan is to get it running and then this winter swap over the ignition stuff. I'm trying not to create to many "well it could be this" kind of situations if I run into issues getting the EFI going; so trying to keep as much the same for now as possible.

Follow up on this; I got it running using the method above (minus the relay I didn't use that) with the diode I linked.
Works well.

[Chryco Psycho]

Likely the cam dropped the idle vacuum too much which creates havok with the MAP sensor , most EFI systems use relatively mild cams , the system I set up stayed open loop witha set program until 1500 rpm where the system went to closed loop & used all the sensors , this worked perfectly even with a .680 lift roller cam

[rhamson]

Likely the cam dropped the idle vacuum too much which creates havok with the MAP sensor , most EFI systems use relatively mild cams , the system I set up stayed open loop witha set program until 1500 rpm where the system went to closed loop & used all the sensors , this worked perfectly even with a .680 lift roller cam

I contacted FITech and gave them my cam specs. and they said my cam would work with my 110 LS. They estimated it would produce around 7-10in. of vacuum and would do okay on their cam4 program. They said they have had success with cams that produce as little as 5 in. of vacuum but they admitted that more tuning was required and that self learning can do only so much.

[Katfish]

I just used a diode across the ballast with no relay.
The FiTech input is just a logic trigger with no current draw.