Ok Experts…Rebuild or use Original?

[7E-Bodies]

OK, all, I'm fairly inexperienced with front suspension, but I'm definitely learning fast. As I'm building out my K frame and all components that bolt to it, I'm really beginning to wonder if I should replace every ball joints in the steering linkage, upper control, arms, Etc. Or is it a no-brainer in that I have it apart so replace everything new? This is a 64,000 mile 440 RT and visibly. It only looks like the grease boots need replaced and there is no rattle or bind in any of the ball joints. A part of me hates to do away with the original equipment with correct part numbers that prove to be original by means of my MMC book. The other part of me doesn't want the bloody knuckles and replacing these after the fact when I find out that they were not good enough (as in failing later). Let's hear what everyone's rule of thumb would be.

[screamindriver]

Assuming you are correct with the condition of the parts...I seem to remember an issue with the availability of boots that fit the original components correctly.. You might want to check into that before you make a decision...

[Floyd]

NOS seals are still out there.  They're usually obscenely priced compared to aftermarket but nothing fits and works better with original suspension parts. 

Repro seals were made about ten years ago with the right shape and part numbers; HOWEVER, the rubber was substandard and they cracked almost immediately.  You can only tell them from NOS by the smell (that awful Chinese rubber smell) so beware if you don't know the seller.

[ec_co]

I'm of the opinion to keep them. Aftermarket parts can be a little hit and miss these days

[RUNCHARGER]

If you have tested them for wear and binding and they are good, there is no way in heck I would replace Chrysler parts with some unknown quality offshore junk. That's just from a safety and longevity perspective. Original Chrysler parts were a known quantity quality wise.

[7E-Bodies]

Good feedback. Each comment gives me something to consider.

[jimynick]

My Challenger had 73,000 miles on it when I restored it and I changed every piece with Moog parts and am glad I did. Part #'s on 50+ year old parts? Jesus. Just my 

[7E-Bodies]

My Challenger had 73,000 miles on it when I restored it and I changed every piece with Moog parts and am glad I did. Part #'s on 50+ year old parts? Jesus. Just my 

Odd you say that. I'm finally using Grok Ai and it's fascinating. It gave a very similar reply as yours, leaning heavily towards Moog. I may put all of the original stuff in a box and go with the new Moog stuff. I won't go with tubes etc, just ball joints.

[jimynick]

Just don't make my mistake. Put in your zerks and grease the wee bastards before you install them! Simple to do. Are you tackling the lwr cntrl arm pivots, too?

[torredcuda]

Moog quality can also be hit or miss as they are made in many different countries now, if originals are not worn I would keep them. They may not look 100% original but good boots are available depending on sizes.

https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/191820?srsltid=AfmBOoo2yG-P3zCEv9KOExuVuqzC-j2OPccQkLzygN2yyFxO5YwaNNdU

https://teamenergysuspension.com/?s=ball+joint+boots

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/ball-joint-boot

[7E-Bodies]

Just don't make my mistake. Put in your zerks and grease the wee bastards before you install them! Simple to do. Are you tackling the lwr cntrl arm pivots, too?

Yep. Everything. Good advice.