1970 'cuda brake issues also

[1970 cuda Joe]

I was following the other discussion about brake issues. I bought the tool for the booster pin length. Mine is too long not allowing the master cyl to return to it's natural position so I need to adjust the nut. My question is, will that pin from the boodter just pop out? I would like to clean it before I adjust it. Pretty skunky. I have power disc/drum brakes. Thank you, Joe 

[B5fourspeed]

It should just pull out.I received my tool today and I will check the gap tomorrow.

[1970 cuda Joe]

I had to go a little further into my system than what I had planned to. After inspecting the entire system, I found multiple leaks coming from several fittings & both calipers. It has a purple tint to it which I guess is DOT5. Now I'm pulling the system completly apart, flushing with denatured alcohol, cleaning, rebuilding & replacing DOT5 with DOT4 fluid. When draining the system there was lots of small black particles. The wheel cyls & the master cyl are known offshore items. Calipers are unknown except they are 1971 design. Replacing all the brake hoses. RF hose was weeping through the jacket.

Question: This car has 11x2.5 finned rear drum brakes & stock disc on the front. I can't find anything that says this system was offered on a 1970 cuda. Am I missing something? Thank you, Joe 

[1970 cuda Joe]

As I'm getting things cleaned, dried & reassembled, I'm not having any luck removing the pin from the power brake booster. It's the flat Bendix type booster. Numbers indicate that it could be the original. The adjustment nut is froze & I really need to remove it & maybe put some heat on it. I don't want to twist off the thread. It does spin. Anybody have a trick to removing it? Thank you, Joe

[1970 cuda Joe]

I removed the booster & put it in a vise where I could see a retainer holding the outer seal. I removed the retainer & seal & looked inside the booster. I noticed a square retainer which when removed would allow the stem to be removed. I removed the stem & cleaned the threads with my bead blaster. I had to use heat to loosen the threads. As it turns out, it a bolt & not a cap as I originally thought. I made my .020 gap using the tool from a previous post & it's ready to return to the car. I had other things to do while the booster was out so it all worked out.....Joe

[1970 cuda Joe]

As I'm putting things back together, I thought I would ask about the cast connection piece of this assm. It has a hole on where it attaches to the pedal. Are these castings only used on "E" body cars with disc brakes? If it's used on other cars, how would I know if I have the correct one? It looks like it's stamped "BE" on the side. I had to borrow the picture...Thank you, Joe

[Bullitt-]

  Check against these pictures
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=279

[1970 cuda Joe]

Thanks for the link. I wish his pictures were better....Joe

[B5fourspeed]

When I measured mine the pushrod was about 3/16 to long.The thread lock they used at the factory is strong.I have been spraying carb cleaner to loosen it up.Probably will use heat if spraying it does not work.My brakes where not dragging.My last Cuda when I installed the brake booster I stepped on the pedal and the pushrod shot right out.I had the same 70 booster on my last car but this pushrod does not pull out.I have no clue how 1 came out and another one you have to take the booster apart.Are the pushrods different lengths for power disc and power drum.

[1970 cuda Joe]

I'm putting the brake system back together & wondered which harness go over the top of the booster? I know the main does. What about the wire for the road lamps? The harness for the 4 speed doesn't look like it should. I has some sort of a rectangular plastic piece that should be mounted somewhere? Here's a picture of what I have & yes, that green was it's original colour
Thank you, Joe 

[B5fourspeed]

Roadlamp harness,front light harness and wires that go to the starter relay.I adjusted my pushrod and I am bench bleeding the master cylinder.Will bleed the brakes this weekend and hoping my pedal will improve.

[EV2RTSE]

Question: This car has 11x2.5 finned rear drum brakes & stock disc on the front. I can't find anything that says this system was offered on a 1970 cuda. Am I missing something? Thank you, Joe 

In '70 when front discs were ordered the rear drums were 10", I believe, unless AAR or T/A then they were 11". Your brake pivot assembly looks to be a later style, I didn't realize that there is apparently a difference between 71-72 and 73-74 until I looked at that Brewer's link but I know for '70 the pivot assembly used nuts & bolts instead of cotter pins like yours has. If you could post a pic of your booster I'd be interested in seeing the #s on it, might be able to figure out what it came off of originally. A 1970 booster has 8550 stamped on the bottom under 'Bendix' along with the football shaped opening around the pushrod. 

[EV2RTSE]

Here's a link to a good pic of a 70 Cuda with discs, even the wiper hose goes through the bracket as shown.

https://mmcdetroit.com/References/Engine%20Compartment%2058.html

[1970 cuda Joe]

Question: This car has 11x2.5 finned rear drum brakes & stock disc on the front. I can't find anything that says this system was offered on a 1970 cuda. Am I missing something? Thank you, Joe 

In '70 when front discs were ordered the rear drums were 10", I believe, unless AAR or T/A then they were 11". Your brake pivot assembly looks to be a later style, I didn't realize that there is apparently a difference between 71-72 and 73-74 until I looked at that Brewer's link but I know for '70 the pivot assembly used nuts & bolts instead of cotter pins like yours has. If you could post a pic of your booster I'd be interested in seeing the #s on it, might be able to figure out what it came off of originally. A 1970 booster has 8550 stamped on the bottom under 'Bendix' along with the football shaped opening around the pushrod. 

I do have the 8550 booster you mentioned & I just purchased the pivot from Brewers. He didn't have the "dog bone" that goes to the pedal or the 3" long bushing for the mounted end. I have the dog bone for the 1971 (narrow). The picture of the pivot isn't mine, just a sample so people would know what I'm talking about. I will find a 3" bushing today, Bring those harness up to where they need to be. I just need to figure the mounting of the rectangular tab on the 4 speed trans harness...Thank you, Joe
 

[VCODE]

This is the only correct brake linkage for a 70 E body. Its the only arm the has a groove around it for the anti rattle spring and has E stamp on it. It is also the only one piece all welded together.