Brake light stuck on, any suggestions

[nsmall]

My brake light is stuck on.  Any suggestions why? Maybe a ground problem?  My brake fluid reservoir is full.   And no I dont have the e-brake on.

I am hoping its something simple.  I have all new Yearone wiring.  Thanks in advance. 

[dodj]

E-Brake pedal switch or the 'off centre' switch in the proportioning valve. Not sure what that switch is actually called. I have heard you can sometimes push the brakes really hard once or twice to get it back in the proper place. If you remove the wire from the prop valve, you will at least know if that is the issue if the light goes out.

[Lemontwist]

Maybe the brake light switch near the pedal has moved and needs to be snugged up against the pedal?

[Chryco Psycho]

First ? is dash or rear taillights , if it i s the dash light the switch in the proportioning valve is off center so the pressure in the bake system may be different causing the switch to move , often you have to open a bleeder on the front or raer to recenter the switch

[nsmall]

Its the dash brake light.  Ill keep messing with it.  Was Not stuck on prior to tearing the car down and rebuilding the car.   

[Chryco Psycho]

Proportioning valve differential pressure switch , you need to crack a bleed screw on the front & bake & press hard with the screw open & move the switch back to center

[Cuda Cody]

Brake lights in the rear? Plastic switch in the middle of the bracket?  It's adjustable.

Brake Light on the dash?  Similar switch on the e-brake that can be adjusted so it springs all the way up to turn it off.  I think if I recall... 

[Slotts]

The dash brake light always has 12 volts feeding in the ignition run position. It is ground from the proportioning valve that completes the circuit to light the bulb. With everything turn off, you may want to disconnect the brake light bulb socket and remove the bulb. Test the black wire with an Ohm meter to ground (unpainted bolt on dash frame, etc). If it is showing 0 Oms, then disconnect the socket on the proportioning valve and measure it again. If that changes to O/L, it is the proportioning valve and need to follow Neil's instructions. If you are seeing 0 Oms, then your black wire insulation may be compromised and the copper wire conductor is touching the body metal somewhere.

Jim

[nsmall]

Thanks everyone for your help.  You are all so helpful and knowledgeable.