New videos on Wiring Dakota Digital RTX Gauges and setting them up

[72hemi]

My latest video I discuss how simple it is to wire the Dakota Digital RTX gauges. This was definitely something I was worried about going into this project, and I shouldn't have been. It is pretty simple and straight forward.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIjnH24p8xI

For the other videos following the entire dash restoration process, I have placed them all in the following YouTube playlist on my channel Life at Speed.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLPjX_kHl1IQpDyB1y-1jo8CR89XCelo0c

I hope these videos help people with their projects. Let me know if you have any questions.

[Marty]

I've been following all your videos, but it was your RTX videos that have convinced me to install one in my 1970 Barracuda project. I just don't want to deal with the old tech in the one I have. Plug and play are what I want. (I'm not much of a wiring guy either.) When I order one, I'll let them know you sent me. Thanks for the videos.

[Spikedog08]

Actually I've been following as well . . Wonder how hard it will be with the dash still in the car . . Also I have a standard cluster . . How much more difficult does that make the process?   

[72hemi]

I've been following all your videos, but it was your RTX videos that have convinced me to install one in my 1970 Barracuda project. I just don't want to deal with the old tech in the one I have. Plug and play are what I want. (I'm not much of a wiring guy either.) When I order one, I'll let them know you sent me. Thanks for the videos.

Glad my videos have helped you out! That's the main reason I do these videos, to help the automotive community.

[72hemi]

Actually I've been following as well . . Wonder how hard it will be with the dash still in the car . . Also I have a standard cluster . . How much more difficult does that make the process?   

It shouldn't be too bad with the dash still in the car if you have the old cluster and switch panel removed. That should give you enough clearance to install the brain box and route the wiring. As for converting from standard cluster to rally cluster; you will need to get a rallye cluster switch panel and gauge bezel (72-74 style, not 70-71 style). And you'll have to get the rallye cluster heater (or ac) control panel. I believe all of these parts are reproduced now.

[Spikedog08]

Actually I've been following as well . . Wonder how hard it will be with the dash still in the car . . Also I have a standard cluster . . How much more difficult does that make the process?   

It shouldn't be too bad with the dash still in the car if you have the old cluster and switch panel removed. That should give you enough clearance to install the brain box and route the wiring. As for converting from standard cluster to rally cluster; you will need to get a rallye cluster switch panel and gauge bezel (72-74 style, not 70-71 style). And you'll have to get the rallye cluster heater (or ac) control panel. I believe all of these parts are reproduced now.

Thanks for the feedback . . Pretty sure I have all the pieces . . Certainly considering this project. 

[anlauto]

So far I've really enjoyed your videos, but I have to say I was a little disappointed with this one from a educational point of view. I haven't received my gauges yet from Dakota, so maybe the instructions will help....and maybe it was just the anticipation of your video, hoping it would answer all of my questions ahead of time, but unfortunately it left me with more questions....

Questions like:
Where did you splice in the yellow wire for the ignition ? and the other ignition wire ? When you said you ran new wires to the fuel sender, couldn't you just use the existing wire that's in the factory harness ? What about oil pressure and water temp, did they need complete new wires or could the wires in the factory harness be used ?

[Spikedog08]

So far I've really enjoyed your videos, but I have to say I was a little disappointed with this one from a educational point of view. I haven't received my gauges yet from Dakota, so maybe the instructions will help....and maybe it was just the anticipation of your video, hoping it would answer all of my questions ahead of time, but unfortunately it left me with more questions....

Questions like:
Where did you splice in the yellow wire for the ignition ? and the other ignition wire ? When you said you ran new wires to the fuel sender, couldn't you just use the existing wire that's in the factory harness ? What about oil pressure and water temp, did they need complete new wires or could the wires in the factory harness be used ?

Great questions . . Those are some items I am interested in as well . . 

[72hemi]

So far I've really enjoyed your videos, but I have to say I was a little disappointed with this one from a educational point of view. I haven't received my gauges yet from Dakota, so maybe the instructions will help....and maybe it was just the anticipation of your video, hoping it would answer all of my questions ahead of time, but unfortunately it left me with more questions....

Questions like:
Where did you splice in the yellow wire for the ignition ? and the other ignition wire ? When you said you ran new wires to the fuel sender, couldn't you just use the existing wire that's in the factory harness ? What about oil pressure and water temp, did they need complete new wires or could the wires in the factory harness be used ?

Let me answer your questions. First the instructions that come from Dakota Digital are super clear and easy to follow, which is why I wasn't super detailed in my video. That said for the two power wires I attached them to the open spots on the bottom of the factory fuse box, so no cutting required, just plug into the open ports. As for the fuel sender you could use the factory wire for one of the wires, but the Dakota Digital kit requires 2 wires, one to attach to the normal location on the fuel sender and one to attach to the fuel sender as a ground. And since I had to run one wire to the tank anyways I decided to just run a pair of new wires and not cut the factory harness. As for the oil pressure and water temperature, yes they need new harnesses as they have new sensors that are not like the factory units. The factory water temp and oil pressure sensors have 1 wire each, the new water temp sensor has 2 wires and the oil pressure has 4. Plus the new sensors have special plugs on them. It's a lot easier to use what comes in the Dakota Digital kit than try and splice into the factory harness.

Hope this helps clear things up. If you have any more questions let me know. I am more than happy to answer them.

[72hemi]

Here are a couple of pictures that should help clear up the question on where I connected the 2 power wires to. One picture is of my actual fuse box, and the other is a blank fuse block that I highlighted where I plugged each wire into.

[anlauto]

Yes it does, thank you very much 

[72hemi]

Yes it does, thank you very much 

You're welcome. 

[72hemi]

My latest video regarding the Dakota Digital RTX gauge installation has posted. This video I go over how to setup and configure the RTX gauges and show them all lit up. Next week I will post a video on my final thoughts on this system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Umt0HVmYVSs

[anlauto]

When you unbolt the large black and red wires from the back of the factory ALT gauge, do you have to bolt them together when switching to the Dakota gauges ?

[72hemi]

When you unbolt the large black and red wires from the back of the factory ALT gauge, do you have to bolt them together when switching to the Dakota gauges ?

That's what I did. Not sure if needed or not.