Sound deadener application

[Burdar]

Ok, so I know this has been discussed multiple times before.  I've read those posts.  There are a couple questions I have that haven't been covered in those other threads.  The two things that don't seem to be discussed are 1. Convertibles and 2. How much area do you really have to cover.

1. Convertibles

I could go "all out" and install Fatmat/Noico/Kilmat(pick your poison)over the entire floor...lay down extra insulation and then install the carpet with mass backing.  However, is that really needed when(I assume) the overwhelming majority of road noise is going to be coming from the convertible top.  Sure, the noise from underneath should be greatly reduced but if the overhead noise is the dominant factor, how crazy do I need to get with the floor?

2. How much area do you really have to cover.

When looking at other peoples installs, it seems like all you see are completely covered floors, firewalls and ceilings.  @GoodysGotaCuda made a comment on another thread(not sure if it was on this site or another) that the Butyl based sound deadeners aren't meant to be installed over the entire surface.  Basically, they are just as effective at sound deadening if they are applied to small strategic areas.(in the middle of large panels)  Just look at what the OEs are doing now.  They use Butyl sound deadening but they don't completely cover the floor...just strategic areas.

Some comments I've read say completely covered floors have reduced interior noise but the owners didn't really see a difference in heat entering the cabin.  So, if you are installing Fatmat/Noico/Kilmat exc... just for sound deadening and not to reduce interior temperatures, is covering the entire floor/firewall necessary?

I plan on installing it inside the doors (on the inside of the outer skin) and installing carpet with the mass backing.  I will install some on the floor also but at this point I'm conflicted on how much I really need to cover.  Please discuss.

[anlauto]

Interesting topic, I too am interested in hearing what others have to say...as I'm doing a convertible right now as well. My plan is to cover the entire floor and inside firewall with Dyna-mat (already purchased)...my thought process was mainly heat and road noise 

[Mrbill426]

I too will be in that boat soon 

[shawge]

I used selective application of the butyl backed mats around my Challenger. Spent a lot of time knocking on the panels listening for a reverberating drum sound and put pieces of the mat down at those spots.

For the doors, I put about strips of butyl mat (about 3 above the body line, 6 below) on each door but I found the biggest improvement was putting butyl rubber strips between the door skin and the crash guard.

For the floors, after the butyl mat I laid down closed cell foam padding, then mylar bubble insulation making sure all seams were sealed with aluminum tape, then the carpet.  My hot spots were firewall, transmission hump (TKOs generate a lot of heat), and rear seats due to the mufflers.

[autoxcuda]

On large areas you don't need butyl to cover the whole area to dampen the vibration/noise. Notice pic of roof.

This car was sponsored by Dynamat so application is liberal. The full floor was covered. Pics were taken in the middle of application

[GoMangoBoys]

@autoxcuda What product from Dynamat did you use?
Thanks

[autoxcuda]

@autoxcuda What product from Dynamat did you use?
Thanks

Not sure.

Took pic of car were my friend works. He put it in

[cudaragtop]

Sound Deadening is just that, used to deaden the sound caused by the metal vibrating like a drum.
Put your hand on a large panel and you dampen the ringing it would create if you remove your hand. Not necessary to cover panels completely. Used some of the stick on sound deadening in the Cuda and it seemed to help. Never going to be quiet inside the convertible though...


Made the decision recently to go with Lizard Skin spray on Sound control. It is said to reduce noise from entering the car, sound proofing and also dampening sounds caused by vibrations. Together with Lizard Skin spray on Ceramic Heat Barrier sprayed on over the top.
We should get a ride that is quieter and much cooler inside.

Ordered the full kit with 2 Gallons of Sound Control, 2 Gallons of Ceramic Insulation, including spray gun and aerosol top coat from Jeg's just a couple weeks ago.
https://www.jegs.com/p/Lizard-Skin/Lizard-Skin-Insulation-Sound-Dampener-and-Accessories/1122693/10002/-1

Will be going on the inside our 69 Barracuda but not quite ready. Getting closer though.
The car is completely empty still so spray in will be pretty simple.

The Lizard Skin Website has a couple Demo Videos too. I was really impressed with the Ceramic Insulation video.
https://lizardskin.com/

[Mr Lee]

I would think that road noise would be mostly coming from the bottom up.  Since you can't do the roof, might as well do as much as you can, where you can. 

And I think the heat factor is as big a deal as the noise factor.  Personally, I would do as much as you could to manage both. 

Yes they say you don't need to cover the entire panel but human nature kicks in and says, if a little is good, more is better. I think thats what happens to a lot of people, including myself, when installing.

Not only did I put the butyl dynamat in the doors but I used the Dynamat Hoodliner and stuck it to the backside of my door panels and rear interior panels. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Burdar]

I'm working on installing the sound deadener and I'm to the point of installing it in the doors.  The inside of the doors(and inside of the 1/4 panels) has factory undercoating on them.  The rest of the sound deadener was applied to smooth metal.  Is there going to be an issue applying it over top of the factory undercoating?  Am I even going to see a difference since the panels are already undercoated which is a sound deadener in itself?

Once all the glass is in and adjusted, I can add some to the inner door structure before the door panels go on.  I think that would cut down on quite a bit of noise/rattles coming from there.  I'm just questioning the inside of the outer door skin at this point.

[headejm]

I applied sound deadener to the inside of the door skin below the I-beam. Made a big difference in the way the door sounds when you close it. I didn't do anything to the door under the door panel. For the rest of the car, I tapped around listening for a drum sound and applied sound deadener as required.

The butyl sound deadener would probably stick to the undercoating but I wouldn't think it would be necessary. Tap on the panel and see if it sounds like it needs to be dampened.

Adding sound deadener made my car seem more modern and quieter. 

[Burdar]

This is my first time applying the stuff.  Honestly, I don't know if it's doing any good at all.  Tapping on the panels before and after...I can't tell that it's doing anything.  The metal still sounds tinny.  I realize that tapping on the panels is completely different then how sound is going to travel through them while on the road so that may not be an apples to apples comparison.

This is on my 68 Dart by the way.  No crash bars at all inside the doors...just a hollow shell.  The door structure is pretty flimsy and I think there would be some benefit there.  The E-body door structure is more solid I think.