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Voltage gauge for Cuda rallye dash

Started by Cudalbs, February 11, 2017, 06:40:16 PM

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larry4406

Mr. Lee - nice job!  I would say paint the red needle matching orange (or all of them the same orange) and call it done!

dodj

Very nice. And it reads left to right.  :bradsthumb:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Mr Lee

Thanks.  Yeah maybe some orange paint would be a good idea before I put it back together.
Remember, wherever you go, there you are.


dylo

Thought I'd add my non-rallye ('70 standard dash) volt meter swap procedure here. I thought it was pretty straight forward if you want to get rid of your ammeter with a standard dash. There's not much on here regarding the standard dash either, so this might be helpful to others.

1. Buy cheap eBay volt meter for about $8 and disassemble by first removing the rear bucket then the glass face and finally remove the electronic guts, the needle and the face. (Pic 1).

2. you can just squeeze in new screw locating holes by drilling into the voltmeter mounting plate. Use the ammeter face plate as a template over the disassembled voltmeter and mark where these holes go first (Pic 2)

3. attach ammeter face plate to volt meter with new screw holes and voltmeter face plate screws. trim 3mm from the voltmeter needle shaft. take a bit of insulation off the voltmeter LED power wire which was removed and slide it over the needle shaft so the mopar needle fits snug. (Pic 3)

4. put the dust cover over the voltmeter guts and insulate the nuts so it doesn't short!! (Pic 4)

5. Drill hole in the metal cluster housing  :unbelievable: with a holesaw, as the voltmeter is 'just' too long to fit inside. (Pic 5)

6. Use the original voltmeter face plate as a mounting plate to mount the new gauge assembly to the metal cluster housing from behind with the positive and negative studs and one self tapping screw. Seal the plate with your favourite silicon to avoid dust getting in there (Pic 6)

7. Sit back and admire your new gauge cluster (Pic 7)

anlauto

Hey, that's a pretty neat conversion  :twothumbsup:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Skdmark

I'll add my conversion to this list. So simple even a caveman can do it (or a guy trapped in the basement when it's -9F outside)

I spent most of my time peeling the cover off the voltmeter.
After grinding off the two rivets on the ammeter, the factory gauge face bolted right onto the voltmeter. No drilling, trimming required.
I did have to grind / file a little extra clearance for the voltmeter studs in the diecast housing. Added a little black electrical on the bottom of the housing below the gauge for extra protection. I will change the needle over to factory one, after I get the old needle painted.
You are not entitled to your opinion. You are entitled to your informed opinion. No one is entitled to be ignorant.
-Harlan Ellison

(O OI====II====IO O)    (O O{]{]{] ][ [}[}[}O O)
:stayinlane:

Mr Lee

Remember, wherever you go, there you are.


Katfish

Quote from: Skdmark on February 09, 2021, 03:08:01 PM
I'll add my conversion to this list. So simple even a caveman can do it (or a guy trapped in the basement when it's -9F outside)

I spent most of my time peeling the cover off the voltmeter.
After grinding off the two rivets on the ammeter, the factory gauge face bolted right onto the voltmeter. No drilling, trimming required.
I did have to grind / file a little extra clearance for the voltmeter studs in the diecast housing. Added a little black electrical on the bottom of the housing below the gauge for extra protection. I will change the needle over to factory one, after I get the old needle painted.

So that is the complete Sun pro gauge including needle behind the factory face?
I like the idea or keeping the stock look

Skdmark

@Katfish  Yes it is.
Even the holes on the factory face plate line up with a pair of holes on the Sunpro gauge.
I ordered my gauge from Walmart.com for about $12 with free shipping.

You are not entitled to your opinion. You are entitled to your informed opinion. No one is entitled to be ignorant.
-Harlan Ellison

(O OI====II====IO O)    (O O{]{]{] ][ [}[}[}O O)
:stayinlane:

Katfish

@Sdkmark
Thx for the info!
2x the benefit, was looking at Amazon, but Walmart is a better deal.

chaps70rt

Has anyone found a source for the FOTA label to convert it from ALT to VOLTS like Claudia's?

???
70 Challenger R/T
440 4-BBL, 4-speed, shaker
2019 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi


Jay Bee

@chaps70rt  Give Premium Dash Decals a call and see if they'd make you one. Tell them what you want or even e-mail them this cropped picture of Claudia's. I asked them once if they'd send me the large gauge decals without cutouts for the rivets and they said the could/would. I've used that center lens legend before and it's spot on.

https://premiumdashdecals.com/shop/dodge/challenger/ta/70-74-e-body-rallye-dash-cuda-challenger-aar-ta-gran-coupe-center-lens-legend-oil-alt-temp-fuel/


chaps70rt

Thanks JayBee ....... I will contact them.  Love it when a plan comes together.
70 Challenger R/T
440 4-BBL, 4-speed, shaker
2019 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi

Jay Bee

Let us know if they come through for you.

fc7cuda

Quote from: Skdmark on February 09, 2021, 03:08:01 PM
I'll add my conversion to this list. So simple even a caveman can do it (or a guy trapped in the basement when it's -9F outside)

I spent most of my time peeling the cover off the voltmeter.
After grinding off the two rivets on the ammeter, the factory gauge face bolted right onto the voltmeter. No drilling, trimming required.
I did have to grind / file a little extra clearance for the voltmeter studs in the diecast housing. Added a little black electrical on the bottom of the housing below the gauge for extra protection. I will change the needle over to factory one, after I get the old needle painted.

@Skdmark

Judging from the range on the sun pro gauge, wouldn't your needle be riding right of center when the engines running?  Assuming you left the stock gauge appearance