New Member from Idaho. Could use some coaching.

[kawahonda]

Looks like NAPA has some good stuff. So far, I have the 11" drums in my cart, as well as the 11" brake pads. I have two front brake cylinders in my cart too. Napa doesn't appear to have the rear (unless the rear doesn't have them?). They have quite a bunch of master cylinders....not sure which one to get. Any help there? Here are the two options that I "think" may be what i need:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM1874M

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM1874

I see they have brake hoses too. I'm assuming I need two brake hoses in the front (according to NAPA they are the same part). Any other hoses?

When the semi-bad fuel gets ran out, I want to replace my spark plugs. What do you guys recommend? Might as well add them to the cart too.

[Morty426]

Only turn the drums if they need it. 

You can new shoes and spring kits from RockAuto just pick a trusted brand

Also check the adjustment is good

[kawahonda]

Let me know what you guys think about my previous post. I'd rather pre-order, than to tear it down and have to wait. I hate subsequent trips to the part store. I think I have most everything in my shopping cart, just need confirmation that a) There's only two brake hoses that are used, b) it's always a good idea to replace the drum and shoes, c) which master cylinder to get, and d) the rear wheels do not have cylinders. For now, enjoy the pictures.

[kawahonda]

Charlie is an awesome guy. Sadly, no pictures of us drinking some micro-brews. Probably the best part.

Car is in original condition and shape. Yes, you do not see these much anymore. Charlie was amazing and got it up and running and driving. I could have stayed there for most of the day if I wasn't having to dread the drive. Took off from Seattle at 7PM and got into Boise at 6 AM. Yes, I hauled it with my dad's car from sundown to sunup. It kicked my ass. I'm continuing to work out the bad gas. Runs like a raped ape when a segment of good gas comes through for awhile. Fuel filter still looks good and no visible chunks or anything. Not much metal to cut at all when the body work begins. All original. I may actually believe that there could be 64,000 miles on the odometer. It's going to a good home, and I will make sure of it. Charlie is the type of guy that you just damn owe it to.

Definitely going back to his shop to drink some beers and shoot the shit. Cuda Cody, too bad you didn't stop by. You guys are welcome down in Boise any time. For now, I hope you guys help me get this back from "golden" to "super golden".

The car begs to be driven as-is. I ain't going to touch the paint/body for several years. For now, it's all about the BRAKES. Getting it super safe to drive. Shit, I took my dad/GF to dinner last night in it....7 miles away. We loved it. Balled it around in the parking lot! Tons of fun. It's all thanks to Charlie!

In order. Brakes -> Rims (15" US Steel Ralleye's/235 all around) -> Exhaust (TTI 2.5 kit using factory manifolds) is the order of operations here guys. Charlie would approve! You just don't want to mess this one up...

[kawahonda]

Pressure washed it the next day (immediately used leaf blower to dry anything possible). Added some decals that you guys posted and the ol' flip fuel cap. This is now one A66 alright....

[RUNCHARGER]

Whoa: Great car. I agree drive that as is.
Yes you need a rear brake hose, it runs from the body line down to the rear axle where the two steel axle lines attach to it. I would keep searching for the rear wheel cylinders. New drums won't hurt to order, they won't be available forever and if you don't need them this time they would be good to have on hand. I only change brake lining if it is 50% worn or if it is old and the bonding might come loose but same thing, it would be good to have them on hand when you pull the brakes down. I didn't study the m/c's as in my experience even if you order the correct one per the listing it might be the wrong one in the box anyway, you sort of order them and take a chance.
Oh before tearing into anything make sure that both left and right emergency brakes are working properly. Sometimes new cables are required.

[Cuda Cody]

So glad you got the car.  That is 1 awesome find!     Thanks for sharing some photos.   

[303 Mopar]

Great car and glad you found another good Mopar guy!  As others have said, make it safe including brakes, shocks, suspension and drive it as is! 

[RUNCHARGER]

Is this car a 4 speed? Looking at the car I would like to suggest not adding headers or TTI exhaust to it. I think stock style Accurate exhaust may be more in line with the unmolested look of the car. Of course it is your car to do with as you please but that is just what I would do with it if it were mine.

[kawahonda]

Alright, please check this. Looks like RockAuto is actually cheaper than NAPA.

Brake drums. I'm pretty sure that these are correct. Only the rear will be finned, but that's all that's available:


Brake shoes. I'm pretty sure that these are correct as well. Organic type.


Wheel Cylinders. This is where it gets a bit weird. There appears to be a front left and front right, both having a 3/8-24 inlet thread size. It appears the rear left/right doesn't differ from eachother, but the inlet size differs at 7/16-24. Is this correct?


master cylinder. 1" bore size. Rock Auto doesn't give details whether or not it's for units without a booster, or using drum brakes. primary outlet is 9/16"x20 and secondary outlet is 1/2"x20.


Front hose. I'm assuming I need to get two of these:


Rear hose. Still missing in action, not on NAPA or RockAuto.

Hardware kits. It appears that hardware kits differ from 10" drums to 11" drums, to front, and to rear. So pretty specific. Looking at this list, it gives me zero confidence that what I am ordering is correct. Any recommendations?

[RUNCHARGER]

Looking good: The front wheel cylinders are side specific because the brake hoses mount to the front or back (I can't remember which) . The drums look good. The M/C looks right, double check if the lines mount on the same side (towards the fender or engine) as your car.
Here is a rear flex line for you.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/challenger/parts/me1620.html

It looks like the Wagner hardware kit if pretty specific so I would order it. It looks like there isn't a front kit so hopefully your stuff will be good. Some of your hardware will be okay and some of the stuff will work on the front if it is needed. I would order two rear kits because they're cheap.

One other thing I thought about. Of course you are going to repack the front wheel bearings however it is also a good idea to repack the rear wheel bearings as well. This is fairly easy to do but you must remove the axles being careful not to damage the wheel seal that is in the rear axle housing a few inches inside the axle tube. Then you want to clean the bearings as well as you can by using solvent on them, dry them and force grease in there (a needle attachment on your grease gun works great for this). It is a step that is not routinely done and it is lucky Chrysler over-engineered these particular bearings because there should be a lot more of them failing than typically do.

[kawahonda]

Awesome Sheldon, thanks for double checking and the advice. The front bearings were recently repacked, so it's a good idea to go ahead and repack the rear.

I'll get all this stuff ordered for now (and double check the M/C fitting side)!

Regarding the exhaust, the current exhaust appears stock, but it missing the resonators. The tips have rust holes. The mufflers have pinholes. It does need a new exhaust.

As-is, the current exhaust "sounds" nice, but it is too quiet for my taste. I feel like I have to really listen to hear the engine running which IMO is not optimal, especially without a tach!

So this is one area where I may stray a little bit. The TTI 2.5" will leave me plenty of headroom in the future if I wanted to do some mild bolt-ons. Keeping my stock manifolds (and refinishing) will give a nice stock appearance for the near term. Going with mufflers that sound a bit more punchy and more bass is preferred over what I have now, but without the interior drone or obnoxiousness. I believe that a TTI 2.5" system w/ some good mufflers (NOT flowmaster 40s) will do that and shouldn't detract from the car. Some may like the "super quiet" sound of it right now, but I just think the 340 deserves to be heard a little bit more.

Still need to figure out what mufflers to put on it. TTI uses Dynomax Super Turbos. I know the Flowmaster 50 series are pretty tame. There's probably some other offerings that I don't know of. I need to do a bit more listening, especially on the earlier pages of this thread.

[RUNCHARGER]

I didn't like the Super Turbos on my green car. The Orange car had Ultraflows and they sounded a lot better. Not sure if they come smaller than 3 inch though.

[Cuda Cody]

Remember we all get 5% off at Rock Auto.

ROCK AUTO
http://www.rockauto.com/?a=ebodies
608-661-1376
DISCOUNT CODE = 5% Discount Coupon: 7F7BE8C31D5E82 Expires: August 7, 2018

[Morty426]

Welcome to the FK5 Challenger Club.

Whatever you do, DO NOT throw away any of the parts you take off the car like the MC