How To Prep & Paint a 340 T/A Engine

[T/A Kevin]

I'm almost ready for paint on my 340 T/A Engine.  I'm having a shop paint it for me, but I will prep it.  My painter is one of the best in the area, but doesn't do a whole lot of Mopar stuff.  I'm looking for advice on how to make it look how it did from the factory (a little better is ok ).  Here's a start to what I'm looking for advice on:
What parts are Hemi Orange, what parts are black (& any other colors)?
What paint is best to use? (part #'s and the best vendor to get it from would be helpful)
Any tips/tricks, do's/don'ts for prep?
Thanks in advance!

[Cuda Cody]

I'll share some photos of the way I paint my 340 T/A engines and what I think you can do it you want to be "more" correct.  I like my engines more on the "show" side of the restoration scale so I don't paint the exhaust manifolds on it.  I believe the factory did paint them with it on.  So if you want a super correct look, paint the engine with them on.  But they only get over-spray.  The bottom of the oil pan did not get much paint from the factory too, but that can change from engine to engine.

Since the exhaust manifolds were in place, so was the heat shield.  But since I do not paint mine with the manifolds in place, I end up having to paint the heat shield separately.  Make sure to paint the lid to your air cleaner too... it's engine color (orange).  The air cleaner is black.  On a 340 you'll want to paint the small hose on the front (see in the photos).  I cover up my fuel pump because I like them not painted, but I think the factory painted it.  On a T/A, the battery cable is not painted.  On most other engines it is painted on the end.  Not sure what T/A's are that way, but they are and I like it better anyway.

So here's what I do.

I scuff the engine with red scotch bright pads (about 300 grit) to make sure there good bite for the epoxy.  If the valve covers need any body work I do that before bolting them on.  They are the one part of the engine that I take a little time to make sure they look good as they are seen so easily.  Clean the engine really good with lacquer thinner.  Normal Wax and Grease remover will not get all of the oils off the engine.  After I clean the engine with lacquer thinner then I will use wax and grease remover on it.

I like to use a white epoxy.  The PPG DP48LF is my preference with the 401 hardener (especially if you are painting a 340 with the bypass hose as it will stay flexible.)  The 401 hardener has a 30 minute induction time.  I use white because it gives the orange little cleaner look then using black or a dark color.  The darker primers will make the orange look muddy.  2 light coats is all you need.  You don't want to build up a lot of film, just get 2 good light coats.  Let is flash off (depending on temp) then put the paint on.

I use a custom color I get from a small shop in NY.  www.supercarrestorations.com  His number is (716) 498-6672 and his email is hek@supercarrestorations.com.  He mails me the paint.  I like his mix best as it has the right sheen and color I'm looking for.  I get the hardeners from my local paint store.  It's mixed 8:1:1. 

There are several other people that make custom mixes for the orange.  I can only tell you about what I do and have found to look good.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

*** all the photos are the same paint mix, they just show up differently with different cameras ***

[anlauto]

Most common mistakes people make is not wanting to copy the factory by painting most items that people don't usually want to paint.
Parts that should be bolted on and painted with the engine include:
By-pass hose/clamps
PCV valve/grommet
Oil breather grommet
Exhaust manifolds
Fuel Pump
Temp Sender (connection taped off)

[JH27N0B]

One point that should be noted here, is that the T/A AAR air cleaner lids are painted a different shade of orange than the rest of the engine.
Frank Badelson sells the correct shade paint for these, others like Totally Auto might might too, but I used Frank's on mine. 

[kdcarman]

Most common mistakes people make is not wanting to copy the factory by painting most items that people don't usually want to paint.
Parts that should be bolted on and painted with the engine include:
By-pass hose/clamps
PCV valve/grommet
Oil breather grommet
Exhaust manifolds
Fuel Pump
Temp Sender (connection taped off)

Alan - You are suggesting these parts should be installed and painted with over spray to get the correct look?

[Cuda Cody]

   Yes, those parts should be on the engine and painted.

[Cuda Cody]

Yes, I think you are right and they came both ways on 340+6.

I was under the impression that the negative battery cable could be either painted or not painted, this would depend on the type of end that was on the block side of the cable. If it had a rubber coating the cable was attached after paint if it didn't have the rubber the cable was attached before paint. I took this picture at MCACN of a 7,000 mile AAR and it has the painted cable sorry it is a bad picture.

[JH27N0B]

The fuel pump is not painted. 
One detail to note on that beautiful engine Scott did and on Cody's picture is the black dipstick handle.  Seems like most people paint that engine color when it should be black.

[6bblgt]

passenger side exhaust manifold always different '70 VS. '71 (a-body same driver's side '70 & '71)

not exactly untouched in the before pic, but some good detail - '71 340'cuda (I see orange dip stick)

[T/A Kevin]

Hey Cody,
Can you share the details on the hardeners you use for the 8:1:1 mix?  My painter is unfamiliar with this paint.
Thanks for all of your help.

[Cuda Cody]

@T/A Kevin  hope this helps.  Let us know how it turns out!   

Hey Cody,
Can you share the details on the hardeners you use for the 8:1:1 mix?  My painter is unfamiliar with this paint.
Thanks for all of your help.

[Cuda Cody]

Click to enlarge the photo if you need to see the labels better.   

[Cuda Cody]

That would make good sense.  Without the hardener it will be easier to the exhaust to burn off.  And you are right, the factory painted engine with the exhaust manifolds in place so they got over spray on them.  It ends up burning off and looking dirty so I paint mine with a high temp cast paint to protect them from rust.  But for shows and judging I would be dinged points for doing it that way.  The way you did it sounds great.  The only thing a judge might say (and just depends how good of a judge it is) would be that the nuts that hold the manifolds on should be painted orange too.  But that is being pretty picky and would really only come up if you were going for a OEM gold level restoration.

Thank for the suggestion about not adding hardener.   

I'm going to throw this out here for discussion. When the shop that is doing my restoration was painting my engine they painted the exhaust manifold separate from the engine and when they painted the manifolds they didn't use any hardner in the paint. The reason they told me is that hardner causes the paint to burn off faster, I have not started my engine since it has been painted so I don't have any first hand evidence that this is true. I plan on taking my car to a couple of shows to be judged thats why we painted the manifolds orange other wise they would have been painted with a high temp cast paint. Has any one else heard or done this?

[T/A Kevin]

Will post some pics when it's done. Really appreciate all of the help!

[Aar1064]

I went back and forth about painting the exhaust manifolds on my build and I finally decided to spray engine color while bolted on but I did however spray and bake them with Seymour 1200 degree cast blast as a base. I like the way the orange burnt off leaving a nice looking protected finish.

More will burn off but I feel optimistic that the Seymour will protect them from rust for a good while.