Running issue

[Austinr7]

So I have two issues.
1: I start the car it runs but as soon as I put it in gear it stalls. It has not been ran in maybe 5-7 years and I just got it running. And let it run for a little bit before throwing into gear.
Any thoughts or ideas?

2: It has a new tank on it. All line look hooked up but it
wouldn't start. Hooked a fuel cell up to it to put on trailer and let it run and did perfectly fine. Any ideas or thoughts on why from the tank to the pump it doesn't get any gas.

[Cuda Cody]

@Austinr7  Tell us more about the car and any work that has been done?  Engine, year, mods?  Auto trans, stock converter?

[Austinr7]

It has a 318 in it. Not sure on tranny. Original tranny. Everything stock. New plugs and wires and fresh oil change

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[Chryco Psycho]

If it has sat for a long time the fuel may be solidified or gelled inside the fuel line , you can try blowing through it with comopressed air but probably need a new fuel line end to end , I would contact Dave at Roseville for a new line

[Dakota]

Where did you make the connection for the fuel cell to the car?   Did the fuel cell include a fuel pump separate from the stock mechanical pump?

Assuming you made a connection on the inlet of the mechanical fuel pump here's my 4 cents:

1.  On a prior project car, I had to use a vacuum pump to to pull gas forward from the tank to basically prime the mechanical fuel pump on a car that otherwise wouldn't start after putting in a crate motor.  The "vacuum pump" was about the size of a normal grease gun with a large plunger for sucking out fluids.  The

2.  Another possibility would be a loose or cracked soft line like the one between the tank the hard fuel line which would allow the mechanical pump to suck in air instead of fuel.    If you have a "2 piece" fuel line, there would be another rubber hose joint between the hard lines that runs up to the engine on the driver's side - look a little behind the firewall on the frame rail.   

3. The fuel filter could be plugged, but you may have already eliminated this possibility depending on how you hooked up the fuel cell.

4. Depending on how much gas is in your tank, the slightly more complicated check would be to drop the fuel tank.  My car had been stored for about 10 years before I bought it.   The engine ran rough, but it ran.   Among the many issues found over time included a bunch of rust/scale in the gas tank (see pic below) and corrosion inside the gas hard lines.

[Austinr7]

It has a new fuel tank in it. No new lines.

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[DeathProofCuda]

When the car was running, what was your vacuum and rpm at idle?

[Austinr7]

Not sure what it was running at. It sounds at about 500-1000.

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[DeathProofCuda]

That's a pretty big range for rpm.  I think you are going to need more information (tools) to get this figured out.  Nothing fancy, just the basics like a vacuum gauge, timing light, tach/dwell meter, etc.  You said everything was stock, but haven't said what year the car is.  Do you have electronic ignition or are you running points?

[Austinr7]

On the dash when it was running everything was good. Temperature was right. Oil pressure was good. Gas gauge wasnt reading. Battery was good. This is running off a fuel cell.

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[Austinr7]

Sorry about that. Thought i did when I said what motor. But it is a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda 5.2L 318

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[DeathProofCuda]

So still running an original points dizzy? 

On your stalling issue, I'd probably try to advance the timing a few degrees to see if you can get the idle to smooth out.  You could also bump the throttle blades open a hair more, but this would just be for "right now" to get it running a bit better.  After sitting for over 5 years, you probably need to take some time to go through the fuel supply and ignition systems pretty thoroughly to get things dialed back in.  You should probably go through the carb pretty thoroughly.

[70 Challenger Lover]

This may sound overly simplistic but it might be something as simple as your idle rpm being too low. If it idles in park then it should idle in drive unless something is bound up at the torque converter.

A mild 318 should idle around 750-800 rpms and when you drop it in drive, it should drop down to 650-700. The engine needs to be nice and warm or it might stall when you do this. If you have a big cam or radical changes elsewhere then the engine will probably need to idle a bit higher.

Get yourself a few simple tools. They are cheap. You need a tachometer (not the one inside the car), a vacuum gauge, a timing light, and a couple small hand tools. Get the rpm setting right first in park, then make sure the distributor has at least ten degrees of advance while running. It should be done with the vacuum advance unplugged from the distributor but plug the line so there is no vacuum leak. Once you have that, plug it back on the distributor and reset the rpm to 800.

From there, adjust the mixture screws on the carb looking for the highest rpm and highest vacuum reading as you go. Before you start the engine, count how many turns the mixture screws are out from bottom. They need to be equal. Bring them back out where they were but equal. Then while adjusting it running, do both sides equally in or out in tiny increments of 1/4 or even 1/8 watching your gauges for changes. Move in the direction that increases the rpm and vacuum. If the rpm goes above 900, take a minute to reset it to 800 before going back to mixture screws. When done, reset your rpm to 800 and see if it dies going into park.

[DeathProofCuda]

This may sound overly simplistic but it might be something as simple as your idle rpm being too low. If it idles in park then it should idle in drive unless something is bound up at the torque converter.

A mild 318 should idle around 750-800 rpms and when you drop it in drive, it should drop down to 650-700. The engine needs to be nice and warm or it might stall when you do this. If you have a big cam or radical changes elsewhere then the engine will probably need to idle a bit higher.

Get yourself a few simple tools. They are cheap. You need a tachometer (not the one inside the car), a vacuum gauge, a timing light, and a couple small hand tools. Get the rpm setting right first in park, then make sure the distributor has at least ten degrees of advance while running. It should be done with the vacuum advance unplugged from the distributor but plug the line so there is no vacuum leak. Once you have that, plug it back on the distributor and reset the rpm to 800.

From there, adjust the mixture screws on the carb looking for the highest rpm and highest vacuum reading as you go. Before you start the engine, count how many turns the mixture screws are out from bottom. They need to be equal. Bring them back out where they were but equal. Then while adjusting it running, do both sides equally in or out in tiny increments of 1/4 or even 1/8 watching your gauges for changes. Move in the direction that increases the rpm and vacuum. If the rpm goes above 900, take a minute to reset it to 800 before going back to mixture screws. When done, reset your rpm to 800 and see if it dies going into park.

Well said...lots of good information there.