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1970 Cuda ride height

Started by jamesroney, May 22, 2017, 03:42:28 PM

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jamesroney

Help, Can someone with a stockish 1970 Cuda please take a tape measure and measure the distance from the ground to the fender, and the ground to the center of the wheel?

According to the Factory Service Manual, the proper way to set the height is to take an obscure measurement on the lower control arm...I did that, but I don't like the way it looks, and I just want to compare to others by calculating the distance between the wheel centerline and the fender lip. (independent of tire size...)

Thanks,

BS23N0E

Cuda Cody

This is a 70 Challenger.  I run low in the front.... only about .5 to .75" off the bump stop.  I do it because I like the stance and look. 

Chryco Psycho

make sure you check the toe in after adjusting the ride height as it does change  :wrenching:


Burdar

The factory procedure puts the front end too high. Set it where you think it looks best.

Cuda Cody

 :iagree:  Set it where you like it.  Most would not like the factory front height setting.  To me it always looks like there a load of brinks in the trunk.

Shoooter

I agree. Factory is set too high. Looks alot better lowered

cuda dad

14's - 23.75" and 12" to the center.  15's - 25" and 12.25' to the center which is about 2" lower than when I bought it!


Cuda Cody

I bet that looks good!!!

Quote from: cuda dad on May 22, 2017, 09:45:43 PM
12.25' to the center which is about 2" lower than when I bought it!

HP2

Quote from: jamesroney on May 22, 2017, 03:42:28 PM
According to the Factory Service Manual, the proper way to set the height is to take an obscure measurement on the lower control arm...I did that, but I don't like the way it looks, and I just want to compare to others by calculating the distance between the wheel centerline and the fender lip. (independent of tire size...)


Measuring the way you want will produce results that are absolutely dependent upon tire size. That is why the factory came up with the obscure measurement method as it is entirely independent of tire size as a variable.

If you don't like the way it looks, simply drop it a few turns on the adjustment bolt.

Burdar

The only thing I will add is that you should not turn the adjusters with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.  Jack the wheels off the ground before you adjust.  I know it will only take a few seconds per side but make sure to use jack stands.  An accident can happen at any moment.

bc3j

I like the lowered look. I substituted my factory bump stops with these from Summit. Suspension moves fine without the factory bump stops hitting the frame. I left the spacer plate on. Could get a little more clearance by removing the plate if needed.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9132g


RUNCHARGER

No measurements. I like the front just a hair higher than the back, it's kind of the height the factory intended I believe. It also makes me remember seeing these cars on the highway back in the day and doing a 650 mile day charging across the desert. Ha, ha, anyway this is just a photo for you to make up your own mind. Although it looks like I set this one up with the rocker panels even front to back. I can't believe it's been 16 years since I sold this car.
Sheldon

82firebird

Is there a write up on how to lower the car with the torsion bars?

Cuda Cody

There's not one yet that I know of... if you want to do one that would be great.  Or I can do one next time I do a suspension.  I have a Purple T/A that I might rebuild the front end soon.  So I could get one done this summer. 

Quote from: 82firebird on June 07, 2017, 12:22:25 PM
Is there a write up on how to lower the car with the torsion bars?

HP2

Quote from: 82firebird on June 07, 2017, 12:22:25 PM
Is there a write up on how to lower the car with the torsion bars?

In simplest terms, put the front end in the air, turn the adjusting nut 3-4 revolutions out, drop the car and drive to resettle the suspension.

If it still isn't low enough for you, it is after that point is where it gets trickier. If you have to repeat that sequence a second time, you will need to loose the lower control arm mounting nut to allow the arms to reset their bushings and check for alignment changes. Since you are considering swapping to polyglas, you would need to decide which alignment specifications you want to utilize.