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70 challenger brakes

Started by 70rtse, June 01, 2023, 05:15:49 AM

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70rtse

Hi guys deciding to re do my master cylinder and brake booster for my 70 challenger I think master is correct but my booster is from a 71 car.
It's a factory disk brake car.

Was thinking of going willwood front disks and keeping original drums on the rear.
Engine is a 383 with big cam and high compression
What are all your thoughts.

70vert

if you are not trying to maintain factory/stock original I would go 4-wheel disc brakes, which I did. I also went with hydro-boost primarily due to lack of vacuum. It is night and day better at stopping!!!

anlauto

What do you hope to gain by just changing the fronts from stock to Wilwood ? Unless you have larger rims, you won't be able to fit larger brakes :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


MoparLeo

You didn't really say what type of driving that you do. I disagree about going to 4 wheel disc brakes.
For the street no real advantage. The fronts do 70-80% of the stopping as the weight transfers to the front on braking.
The booster end depends on the amount of vacuum that your engine setup generates.
If it is very low, the hydroboost option is excellent. It operates off of your power steering pump for pressure.
You can gain better braking by just upgrading the quality of the factory type components like better rotors, pads, brake shoes, brake lines etc or move up to the 73 and up calipers, rotors, bearings.
This makes it very economical and very easy to get brake parts in the future as they are factory spec components. You also won't be having mis matched component problems.
Now if you plan on doing lots of high speed stops and/or auto cross events where you are constantly on the brakes, that is another story. As Alan says, aftermarket brake systems often require large diameter wheels to clear the calipers. Factory spec brakes work with factory wheels.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

pschlosser

Although not as efficient and reliable as modern-day disc brakes, the factory manual drum brakes on my big block e-body stop just fine for me, and always have.  Sure, they fade some on a long downhill, but I know how to drive in those conditions.

RUNCHARGER

No Wilwoods for me. I used to sell that stuff and it's not that robust compared to OEM parts. I'll take OEM stuff (especially rotors) any day of the week. You can upgrade your stuff to bigger factory based parts if you go to Dr. Diff. The factories were pretty careful what they let out the door to the general public as they feared lawsuits.

https://www.doctordiff.com/brakes/complete-kits/
Sheldon

70vert

good point @anlauto, I believe all disc brake conversion will require larger rims.

I assumed the comment on "big cam" would likely mean not much vacuum. You can use an electric vacuum pump but I tried that without much success. Hydro-boost is definitely more money to budget.

(ps: I did not use Wilwood discs, but did use their master cylinder)


Chryco Psycho

The Cordoba 11.75 brake upgrade is far better than the Wilwood IMO

70rtse

going to running 15 inch rims
driving it on the street but i want it to stop good.

ill get the cam specs when i speak to my engine builder

BIGSHCLUNK

Years ago I did SSBC on the front. 4 piston cali's and slotted rotors with a bias control. No regrets, beat the drums I had without question. And kept my 15" wheels. Been on NIKKI maybe 15 years now without issue

Chryco Psycho

The Cordoba swap fits 15s obviously as that is what they had for rims , Cass @ Dr Diff has the caliper brackets for the swap .