Aftermarket strut rods for finer caster settings : HOTCHKIS, QA1...

[Sly]

Hi, I would like to know if the aftermarket HOTCHKIS strut rods are any good for our E-bodies and what they allow ? And how they compare to the aftermarket QA1 ?

I am thinking about ordering a pair of them for my 71 Challenger. All my front end is new except for the strut rod bushings that I need to change.
I just changed my power steering box for a FIRM FEEL stage 3 with rebuilt steering coupler but now my car drastically goes to the right when I am driving if I don't hold the steering wheel. I think this was hidden by the looseness on the steering I had until now. Strange thing is that when I am braking, the car suddenly go straight.
I am explaining my problem here :
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/steering-issue-car-goes-in-the-right-side-when-driving/1074/

A few months ago I came to the shop for an alignment, they could set the camber right on both wheels but unable to get the good caster values, especially on the passenger side front wheel.

Now I am thinking about changing the bushings on the strut rods because they may be responsible for this problem, but why not upgrade and go HOTCHKIS to be able to set finer settings ?

Thank you !

[GoodysGotaCuda]

So where was the alignment at when you were done? There could be some crown to the road causing some of the pull, but if all of the alignment settings are equal/close to each other, you should not get a pull.

I would not be surprised to see the right front brake is dragging and when you hit the brakes they equalize.


FWIW, i have the Hotchkis front end but no miles on it. You don't want to horse around the LCA too much with the strut rod, hopefully I can get plenty of caster with the Hotchkis UCAs.

[Brads70]

   While yes you can make adjustments with it, it's not very much until it causes a bind in the lower control arm. I used the adjustable feature just to get the lower in the sweet spot, where it moves the best/free then locked it in position. ( without torsion bar in place)   

[ChallengerHK]

Two things:

First, have you had the frame checked for damage? If the alignment shop can't get the vehicle into proper alignment, that would be the first place I'd check.

Two, on the steering box, there's a centering mechanism. Are you sure it's adjusted properly?

[Sly]

The K-member looks like he is not perfect (has some marks here and here, will take pics) but there is nothing wrong visually speaking. I'm starting to believe that it is bent somewhere...

I didn't have the frame checked but never had any rumbling/pulling problems before. With the former power steering box, the car had no problem going in straight line but there was some looseness though.
When you say centering mechanism, is it the steering valve ? I read that Firm Feel pre-adjust it before shipping.

[ChallengerHK]

Funny, I just posted about this same thing elsewhere.

When I was 18 (I think) I came around a corner at a pretty good clip and I had a tire blow. The car slid into the curb hard enough to jump in the air about a foot and then land about three feet into the grass. I limped it home (only about another 1/4 mile). Needless to say, she was driving poorly, so I took her to a friend who worked at a Subaru dealer and we put her up on a rack. The right lower control arm was bent back at the outer edge about two inches. I had a parts car so I replaced it. I took it to get an alignment and they couldn't align her; they told me the k-frame was bent (which it was). I replaced the k-frame.

This is the important part. 30 or so years later, Tony gets my car for paint. He asks me if I realized that the right inner fender was warped. In the interim, I had completely forgotten about that long ago hard hit, but when he brought it up I need exactly where it came from, and exactly why I'd had trouble aligning my car for several years. So, I'm getting the frame rail re-aligned and the inner fender replaced 

[Brads70]

The K-member looks like he is not perfect (has some marks here and here, will take pics) but there is nothing wrong visually speaking. I'm starting to believe that it is bent somewhere...

I didn't have the frame checked but never had any rumbling/pulling problems before. With the former power steering box, the car had no problem going in straight line but there was some looseness though.
When you say centering mechanism, is it the steering valve ? I read that Firm Feel pre-adjust it before shipping.

If your aligning it to factor specs ( bias ply tires) it's will handle not so well.... Yes jack up the front on the k-frame so the wheels are off the ground, start the engine and see if the wheels stay straight. If not then yes you need to adjust the valve.

[cataclysm80]

An alignment hasn't been done since all those suspension components were replaced.
Getting an alignment would probably go a long way towards solving the pull.
It's a good idea to change your strut rod bushings before getting the alignment.

The real question is whether it's worth it for you to change from stock strut rods to adjustable strut rods.