Brake proportioning valve blues

[Mr Lee]

I did see a thread on here about brake proportioning valves that was about 3 years old.  So I wanted to know what's new since then.

Has anyone had problems with a leaking proportioning valve from Fine Lines or anywhere else?   The first one I bought leaked.  The replacement one they sent me also leaks.  Not too happy - took me a couple hours to change it out and then bleed all 4 wheels by myself.  Was hoping to drive the Challenger to Carlisle next week.  Looking grim now.  : ( 
It leaks at the brake switch and also at the bottom cap, which I tried tightening.

Gonna look and see if I have a spare original one since I found out you can rebuild them. 
If I don't have one, does anyone have one they want to sell?  I have a '70 Challenger with power front discs. 

[1 Wild R/T]

I've heard of & seen allot of problems with the Inline tube valves.... Generally the Fine Lines valves seem to be okay.....

[Burdar]

In order to try and salvage your Carlisle weekend, I think I'd try using some thread "paste" on the fittings that are leaking.  Try the paste...not the tape.  Fine Lines recommends using the paste on the back side of their stainless flared fittings.

[autoxcuda]

I just saw someone on Instagram post he had 2 new ones leak

Then took it apart and found a missing o-ring.

But I would double check the repair manual to see if it originally came with o-ring.

[Mr Lee]

In order to try and salvage your Carlisle weekend, I think I'd try using some thread "paste" on the fittings that are leaking.  Try the paste...not the tape.  Fine Lines recommends using the paste on the back side of their stainless flared fittings.

Thread paste.  Is that like liquid teflon tape?  White stuff? 
The back side?  Not sure i understand.  So, not on the threads?


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[Burdar]

Yes, the white paste.  Firm Feel recommends a little be applied on the back side of the flare.  That would stop any potential leakage between the line and the fitting.  You could still add a small amount to the threads to seal the fitting to the distribution block.  After reading "autoxcudas" post, I'd take the valve apart and look for that missing seal.  You'll have to take it apart anyway if you want to try applying some paste.

[mopar jack]

you can get rebuild parts from musclecarresearch. https://www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar-parts. I have had a couple of leaks and their parts helped but the leaks are coming back just not as bad. I use dot 5 and though I like the benefits of not harming the paint I think it doesn't keep the seals conditioned properly.

[Banana]

I'm on my second Inline Tube chinese valve and am using DOT5.

Unfortunately the second one is leaking also.......really aggravated.

Decided to finally have my original blocks reconditioned from Brake and Equipment Warehouse.......haven't installed yet but am crossing my fingers

Hope I don't have to purge the DOT5, but that's interesting to hear that DOT5 may not allow proper sealing.

[Mrbill426]

I have been using their (own recommended) contact link to inquire about valve parts for 2 weeks and have yet to receive a reply.   Website says they work a day job so use the form.
Anyone buy from them lately?

you can get rebuild parts from musclecarresearch. https://www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar-parts. I have had a couple of leaks and their parts helped but the leaks are coming back just not as bad. I use dot 5 and though I like the benefits of not harming the paint I think it doesn't keep the seals conditioned properly.

[Mr Lee]

@mopar jack
@Banana
Where are the leaks that you guys have been experiencing?  Both of the valves I've tried leak at the brake switch and at that bottom cap.  I also had leaks at the lines/fittings themselves but have gotten those solved after several tries, and tightening the absolute heck out of em.  My problem isn't at the fittings, it's inside the valve itself. 


I'm also using DOT 5.  I've heard a lot of good things about the DOT 5 so I'm hoping that has nothing to do with the leaks.  Personally, I don't think it does.      

I spoke with the folks at Fine Lines.  He seemed honest and did admit that the valves had their problems in the past but they haven't had any problems with them lately.  They were sympathetic and are overnighting me a new valve, which in my opinion was very cool, but it won't go out until monday. 
He also said that they are using a softer stainless steel for the lines now which should seat easier.

In the meantime, I am gonna open mine up and have a look inside. 

[mopar jack]

My valve leaked at the bottom of the hold off valve, the large cap with a pin sticking out. I tried 2 new ones then decided to rebuild. The muscle car research parts look like good quality and the seal held for a couple of months but now it is weeping. I have a good friend dodge 33 a member on this site and he went through a couple of valves and decided to gut it out and braze it closed. The hold off valve was intended to prevent front wheel lock up in icy conditions. Don't think I would miss it. If you remove the hold off valve you will need a Y or tee to couple the two front brake lines.

[bc3j]

I read that DOT5 and the seals in those valves don't play well together. I don't know if there is any true to it as that was the writer's opinion. No experience with DOT5 as I use DOT3.  Just throwing it out there.  I hope you get it solved.

[autoxcuda]

 Finally found that post of the two leaking new proportioning valves:

[Banana]

Aggravating.....why is it so hard with today's amazing technology to reproduce 50+ year technology for the right price........

[ratroaster]

Because most of it is made in China....greed ruined all our quality long ago.