Drop Spindles or adjustable UCA's?

[Scooter]

Previous owner of my 74 Challenger/360 used the torsion bars to lower the front of the car. Have about an inch roughly between the LCA bumper and the frame. I'm ok with that as I'm not rolling hard into turns or going 4-wheeling and I like the current stance. The issue I need to resolve is alignment. The car was pulling right when I purchased it and has probably been doing so for some time as the Hooker header on the passenger side sits so low you cannot get the car onto many alignment racks.

Found a rack we could get up on a few days ago and got the results last night. Mechanic was able to get all within tolerance except camber.. there was not enough adjustment in the UCA to dial it in. The car is still pulling right a tad and I need to eliminate alignment as a suspect. Thought it might be radial pull. We swapped the front tires and it still pulled a bit to the right.

Have narrowed to 2 choices.. two inch drop spindles or tubular & adjustable UCA's (not interested in offset bushings ). Both cost roughly the same. I'm leaning toward the adjustable UCA solution for a pair of reasons:

1) Simplicity, I can probably do both sides in an hour myself.
2) I plan on upgrading the front disk brakes (probably Wilwood) and don't want to toss any odd variables into the mix on the spindle.

Sanity check.. am I missing anything?   

[Burdar]

I'd go with the upper control arms.  Depending on your wheel choice, the drop spindle can cause a problem.  I'll be running into this on my Dart.  With the drop spindle, you are limited on what your backspacing can be.  Eventually, the outer tie rod will hit the wheel.  With a stock spindle, the outer tie rod can actually ride inside the wheel.

[Chryco Psycho]

Willwood brakes are more of a race piece & often have no dust seals around the pistons , Not my first choice FYI