I think the camber is wrong

[73440]

Did some checking of the camber today.
With a recommend of -.5° camber , using two points on the tire as length of 20 " and a negative dimension of 1 " measured ,this looks like - 2.86 ° camber.
The UCA front bolts are almost fully outward and the rear bolts are almost fully inward, if I am interpeting the bolt and offset washer in the photo of the driver front bolt correctly.
The car drives well, wallows kinda like a boat when quick back and forth steering but that seems like shocks possibly.
When the car was bought 3 years ago, front end suspension was replaced by a shop before taking delivery, I think I need to go thru the front end adjustments to verify what is right and what is wrong.
Is it safe to drive with the camber like this, or will it just wear the tires badly ?

[BFM_Cuda]

With the alignment bolts in that position, sounds like they were going for max caster settings. It should be safe to drive, but it will wear the insides of the tires.

I would get it realigned as soon as possible.

[Chryco Psycho]

generally the front tires should be closer to verticle , but I usually start with the rear bolts all the way in & the front all the way outward to max the caster but you should not have that much camber so you have to back off max caster to get the camber right But the other issue could be the lower bushings are worm out allowing the lower control arm to be too far outward

[73440]

Thanks all ,
I will check the work order to see what all was replaced when the  front end work was done,
Judging by other issues the shop did and did not do , I am sure they did not replace the lower bushings.
Time to pull the wheels and get a better look at everything.

[redgum78]

Yep too much neg camber unless you are rally racing the car IMO.
-1 degree camber would be my max for road use.
Caster is good though, on the standard Mopar arms I always go for the maximum caster I can get then adjust camber from there aiming for between -0.5 to -1 degree camber. As you add negative camber you loose your caster, its a bit of a balance between the two but keeping as much caster as possible while still getting some negative camber makes a huge difference to handling.

[HP_Cuda]

I ran some serious camber on one of my rides and wow it tracked nice but would wear the inside of the tires pretty badly.

[HP2]

High camber numbers are great if you are turning a lot and have soft enough springs to allow the body to roll over. Otherwise, yea, it can wear tires pretty fast.

[MoparDave]

you may need to install the off set upper arm bushings. Looks like your maxed out on the camber already and still negative.

[73440]

Thanks all for the help.
Read a lot about the offset bushings and bushing install and aftermarket UCA.
Probably do the bushings first

[redgum78]

Thanks all for the help.
Read a lot about the offset bushings and bushing install and aftermarket UCA.
Probably do the bushings first

Offset bushes work pretty well and are a lot cheaper than after market upper control arms. Just make sure you get the orientation right!

[MoparDave]

Moogs number is K7103

[HP2]

Thanks all for the help.
Read a lot about the offset bushings and bushing install and aftermarket UCA.
Probably do the bushings first

Offset bushes work pretty well and are a lot cheaper than after market upper control arms. Just make sure you get the orientation right!

True, but they are limited in how much caster they can create compared to an aftermarket arm.  Intended usage and budget are certainly individual factors.

[HP_Cuda]

I'm very happy with my setup but if you want a true Pikes peak Cuda you would go aftermarket arms.

[73440]

@MoparDave , just ordered the offset bushings and lower bushings from Roseville.
Thanks all , yes ,@redgum78 ,  I think I read somewhere that the instructions for the orientation can be confusing .

[1 Wild R/T]

Just realize you are trying to move the upper ball joint as far rearward as you can...  One bushing arrow in, one bushing arrow out  The picture is a rear bushing....