ID My Disc Brakes

[6pack]

I put a new rear in my car and that got me working on the brakes.  It started with a bad rear wheel cylinder that was blocked.  I still had brakes but a lot of pedal travel.  Since I have disc brakes, I noticed my master cylinder was the kind with a bolt in it to remove the lid. installed by the prior owner.  I installed a 1-1/16 bore master cylinder. I then found 2 dry rotted rubber plugs on the brake booster vacum hose. I now have the proportioning valve suspect.  I still have too much pedal travel. In the meantime can anyone ID my current disc brake set-up? I have attached pictures of the front discs.  I see the original ones are difficult to come by but are these the 73 or 74 and later types?  I will get a picture of the proportioning valve next.  The prior owner had the restoration shop put all new lines hoses dist. block and prop. valve.  But since the master was incorrect anything goes.  Thanks for looking.

[6pack]

Also, fender tag does not denote Disc Brakes.  This is a BS 1970 Cuda.

[6pack]

Here is a pix of the proportioning valve and block.

[anlauto]

Hard to tell from your picture, is it a one piece or two piece rotor design ?

[6bblgt]

Also, fender tag does not denote Disc Brakes.  This is a BS 1970 Cuda.

disc brakes are not denoted on a fender tag, just "B51" for "power brakes" (drum or disc)

[MoparLeo]

They are the 1970 pin style. the 73 up are totally different, sliders. Only adjustment for pedal travel is the rear drum brakes.

[Bullitt-]

They are the 1970 pin style. the 73 up are totally different, sliders. Only adjustment for pedal travel is the rear drum brakes.

That is not accurate..... Pin style calipers were used on all disc brake E-bodies and as I understand are functionally interchangeable. The rotors did change with the later models using a larger inner bearing.
Those look very much like my original '73 parts with the exception of the anti-rattle clip which was dropped at some point. The part number KH86166 on the caliper would be after '70 model.
Here is one with date code claimed to be for 71-72 https://forum.e-bodies.org/parts-misc-for-sale/9/1971-72-disc-brake-caliper-kh86166-142-date-code-passenger-side/26454/
 
               My Original '73 brake rotor & caliper
          https://i.postimg.cc/cCfbqH39/rtbrake2.jpg

[6pack]

Alan I did not have a chance to tear into it more.  I see the later rotors are plentiful.  I hope as stated they are the later ones.  The auto-zone site gives the bearing numbers.  That will help determine the inner bearing; I understand there are two sizes.  The NAPA site has their numbers that do coincide.  I was just going to bleed them when the pesky dust cap came off again. So I think the spindle is interfering with letting the cap seat properly.  Was an issue before.  I thought I could just remove the caliper like on any normal car.  But the hose is in the way of the mounting bolt and I have to disconnect the hose first.  Thanks for all the help.

[6pack]

Bullitt I think your correct.  That picture looks the same.  Also I was hoping someone recognized the caliper part number.  Do you have any thoughts on the too much pedal travel problem?  I did use the measuring tool for proper adjustment length of the power brake pin that pushes the inside of the Master cylinder.  I did have to adjust it from the previous Master cylinder so there is no gap there before it actuates. The rear brakes are new and adjusted.

[Bullitt-]

Bullitt I think your correct.  That picture looks the same.  Also I was hoping someone recognized the caliper part number.  Do you have any thoughts on the too much pedal travel problem?  I did use the measuring tool for proper adjustment length of the power brake pin that pushes the inside of the Master cylinder.  I did have to adjust it from the previous Master cylinder so there is no gap there before it actuates. The rear brakes are new and adjusted.

On both my '73 after rebuilding the front disks & rear drums and another member's '70 who had recently paid for a complete brake job the pedal would go to the floor with the engine running, but seemed normal with engine off. (He had just driven 300+ miles when his problem appeared) I had discovered that my rear drum adjusters were not engaging and sure enough when I checked his weren't either. Correcting this & getting the rears adjusted properly solved both cars issue...

[6pack]

Yes, that is what this story is about too.  Mine seemed adjusted but were not all the way adjusted.  Tore the front down I have the 1-3/8 inner bearings which is good.  Someone upgraded from manual drums to disc from the 1973 and up vintage and did not upgrade the master cylinder.  My rotors were bad and the dust cap was hitting the outer bearing race.  I am going to pick up everything now.

[Bullitt-]

  Hope that solve your issue.... RE: Dust Cap there seem to be some issues with replacements
  Discussion here offer a few solutions https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/dust-cap-too-loose/13407/msg181284#msg181284

[6pack]

Yes, the new rotor is not deep enough to seat the dust cap properly just like the old one.  It bottoms out on the bearing race.  I will look at your link.

[6pack]

A longer cap insertion depth will not work with this issue.  The cap is hitting the race before it can seat.  I will try spreading the cap a little to make it fit tighter.  I remember going to the U-PULLIT 5 years ago and got a half dozen MOPAR dust caps.  This was the one that fit the best.  I did not know at that time it was an interference issue.  It would still always come off when I took a wheel of just from touching it.  Any thoughts anyone?

[6pack]

Problem solved on the dust cap.  I measured the allowable depth with a machinist rule with a slide bar.  I marked that on the cap with a felt tip. then removed it with a bench sander.  Next stretch the edge of the cap with an 8" crescent wrench all the way around.  Fits nice and tight now.