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Steering "binding"

Started by gzig5, August 11, 2019, 02:33:21 PM

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gzig5

This is hard to explain but it seems like my steering is binding when I accelerate from a stop and turn left.   Steering feel gets heavier and somewhat gritty.  Very strange.  Less so in a RH.  Sensation is stronger the harder it's accelerating, but I'm not spinning the tires.  Steering is very light and unremarkable other than being very numb going down the road.  Entire front suspension is new Moog parts and it has an alignment, though I didn't get a readout.  Power steering car.  I'm suspecting the steering box or possibly the bearing(s) in the steering column because I can't think of anything else?

Brads70

Look to see that the centerlink/tie rods are not rubbing , oil pan, torsion bar, headers/exhaust.
Grease nipple on inner tie rod too.

RUNCHARGER

Motor mount could be done. Letting the exhaust/headers rub on the steering would be the first place to check.
Sheldon


1 Wild R/T

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 11, 2019, 03:20:13 PM
Motor mount could be done. Letting the exhaust/headers rub on the steering would be the first place to check.

:iagree:    Thats what I'd look at first...

dodj

Is it a small block with headers where the tubes run under the driver's side steering linkage?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

gzig5

Quote from: dodj on August 11, 2019, 04:31:32 PM
Is it a small block with headers where the tubes run under the driver's side steering linkage?

Yes it is.  Motor mounts are new as well.  Everything is new up front except the steering box and column.  Hedmann headers that go around the drag link but as far as I can tell everything is clear.  It's wierd, not like I can't steer the car but like there is a gritty load on the wheel while the foot is in the go pedal.  Release the gas and the "tightness" eases up.  I know the column and box could both stand for a rebuild but I don't want to miss anything.

RUNCHARGER

"New" doesn't mean much if the motor mounts are chinese. What brand are they?
Sheldon


1 Wild R/T

Automatic?  Pop the hood, foot on the brake, drop it in gear & second foot on the throttle, watch the engine, if it raises the lower header tube is going to stop it from climbing when it hits the drag link....

New motor mounts fail more often than you think...

dodj

Maybe see if you can see signs of scraping on the header tubes?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

gzig5

I know the motor mount isn't torn, but I think you all are on to something. I noticed last fall when I put them in that the holes the long bolt went through were very oversized and if that bolt wasn't really tight, the motor would move quite a bit.  Might be enough to bring the tube up to the center link.  I'll get it up on the lift tonight and verify.  I put in standard mounts from I don't remember where.  The quality wasn't impressive and after seeing the bolt swimming in that mount hole I knew I needed to address it, but forgot over the winter.  Unfortunately, I think the driver side header has to be loosened up to get that bolt out.

gzig5

Quote from: gzig5 on August 12, 2019, 07:18:06 AM
I know the motor mount isn't torn, but I think you all are on to something. I noticed last fall when I put them in that the holes the long bolt went through were very oversized and if that bolt wasn't really tight, the motor would move quite a bit.  Might be enough to bring the tube up to the center link.  I'll get it up on the lift tonight and verify.  I put in standard mounts from I don't remember where.  The quality wasn't impressive and after seeing the bolt swimming in that mount hole I knew I needed to address it, but forgot over the winter.  Unfortunately, I think the driver side header has to be loosened up to get that bolt out.

Shows how smart I am.  Stupid, cheap mount is broken with only a few hundred miles on it.  I guess that new carb really is working.  I pinged Schumacher to see if they were going to make Poly-Locs for E-bodies any time soon.  Besides that, is the Mag Mount from Mancini the next best?  What's the technical details on that, the website has zero information.

I'm tempted to hack together a set of spool type mounts this winter if there is room.
Torque arm is an option too but that is just more crap under the hood and shouldn't be needed at this performance level.


70 Challenger Lover

I just tore a new motor mount on my RT as well. I had a separate thread going regarding torque straps and in the end, I decided to go with a couple grade 8 low profile flat head bolts to sandwich it all together. The Schumacher ones are nice and I've used them in the past on my Superbee but they are quite expensive. Everyone says the bolt trick works well and if you don't tighten them too much, it allows for a little wiggle room so the rubber can do it's normal vibration insulation job.

I had a little trouble finding the bolts I wanted locally so I had to mail order the correct ones. Should have this all together in a few days.

gzig5

I think that's how I'm going forward.  ^^^^
From what I can tell this is what the Mancini mounts are doing.  NAPA has a set in stock so I'm going to trundle up there now.

70 Challenger Lover

Someone else mentioned those mounts as well. Probably the simplest fix at a reasonable price. I had a spare new mount and the bolts were a couple bucks a piece so I just went that route. Wasn't too much trouble drilling holes but I hated to drill into the engine plate. Well it should be invisible once installed and a fairly permanent solution.

gzig5

Did you use 5/16 or 3/8 bolts?  Length?  There's a nut on the other end right?  I think you could tap the bracket but it may not have quite enough thread engagement.

My new NAPA mounts say "Made in India" so I don't hold out too much hope that they will hold together without some special help.  same part number came it two different sized boxes.  What a cluster.