torsion bar dust boots

[Burdar]

I see that there are polyurethane dust boots available.  I've read about people having a bear of a time trying to get them over the torsion bar hex.  The only thing the boots do is keep out water and sand from the torsion bar socket. So, what is the advantage of using these poly dust boots instead of the factory rubber?  I've heard of engine/exhaust heat melting poly engine mounts.  The exhaust passes by the torsion bars...is there any issue with these boots getting too hot?

On a similar note, what is the point in having a boot in the first place?  Why is the rear section filled with grease?  The front end is exposed to road debrit, why can't the back?  I've had a few Dodge trucks with torsion bars and I don't remember them having any dust boot at the crossmember. I helped replace torsion bars on a late 90s Ford.  It didn't use any boot or grease either. 

[Shane Kelley]

The front has a boot because that is more likely to get sling from the front tires. As far as the reason poly boots I have no idea. I see no advantage whatsoever unless somebody wants some colored boots besides black.

[Daveh]

I agree with Shane those boots are only for protection and serve no purpose from a drivability standpoint. 

[Cuda Cody]

   I see no reason to use a poly boot.  The rubber factory ones have always worked perfectly and I've not seen them burn or melt from heat.

[B5Cuda440-6]

The reason for the boot is primarily to retain the grease in the cross-member hex fitment. The grease is applied to allow the torsion bar to slide within the hex fitment as the front suspension flexes during braking or when the body flexes during driving.

[Burdar]

The only reason I can see using them on my latest build is that it looks like they are cheaper then reproduction rubber.

I wonder if the crossmember location on these old cars is just in the perfect location to get hit with a lot or road debrit.  Trucks don't use a dust boot.  Maybe their crossmembers are back far enough that debrit isn't an issue?  I would think trucks would get more abuse/off road driving though.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Poly boots came with my larger Hotchkis torsion bars, and they are awful to work with.

For now, I have no boots. It's a fair weather car and I believe it will be okay. I do not recommend the poly boots.


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[Burdar]

I've heard people say they put theirs in boiling water to make them more pliable to install.

[303 Mopar]

Poly boots came with my larger Hotchkis torsion bars, and they are awful to work with.

For now, I have no boots. It's a fair weather car and I believe it will be okay. I do not recommend the poly boots.

This was my experience as well.  When I bought the biggest t-bars from PST they came with rubber boots that fit right over and were easy to work with.

[HP2]

The only reason I can see using them on my latest build is that it looks like they are cheaper then reproduction rubber.

I wonder if the crossmember location on these old cars is just in the perfect location to get hit with a lot or road debrit.  Trucks don't use a dust boot.  Maybe their crossmembers are back far enough that debrit isn't an issue?  I would think trucks would get more abuse/off road driving though.

If the poly boots are cheaper and you need some, then give a try.

If you are talking about later model truck torsion bars, their hex interface is different than our old mopars. New t-bar vehicles have a torsion bar with a hex that has faces that are not flat. They have a slight radius to them to interface with the opposing radius in the socket. They have some built in clearance in them as a result and they does not necessitate grease for installation, so there is no element there to attract and retain road debris.

FWIW, I've run  mopar bars without grease and without boots. Its not like we are driving these cars day and night, 365 days a year to the 100k mileage point any more.

[JonH]

put poly boots on my 1.06 bars. warmed them with a heat gun and sprayed with silicone. slid on with a little effort, much cheaper than the oe rubber ones.

[61K T/A]

I used the poly boots using grease. They slid on pretty easy. I twisted them on vs. trying to push them on. So far they have not melted. I have my mufflers mounted about 1 foot back from the collectors and that's it. No intermediate pipe after that. Where's everyone else have their mufflers mounted?

[Burdar]

Well, I decided to try the poly boots.  I put them in boiling water for about 10 minutes.  They pushed right on with no lube.  The only down side so far is that I'll have to install the bars from the front side BEFORE lowering the body over the engine/suspension assembly.

The hole size in the boot was a little less than 3/4" when I measured it.  They are now installed on a 1.03" bar.  When they cooled, they locked on pretty good.  It will take a little WD-40 to get them to slide now.  I don't think it will be a problem.  We will see how hard it is to get the big end onto the x-member at a later date.